I've been looking for I.vomitoria! I have quite a large list of fruits/nut trees, etc. Here's a selection that will do well in your region: Apple 'Granny Smith', Aronias, Hazelnuts, Wild Black Cherry, Currants, Gooseberries, Mulberries, Dewberries, Scottish blackberries: Loch Ness, Tayberry, etc. thornless (Loch Ness), over a dozen varieties of Elderberries - some incredibly beautifully foliaged with large fruit; Peach, Roses: some with hips the size of small cherry tomato - several dozen rare roses; Wild Plum - delicious; Wineberry, American Highbush Cranberry; Passionfruit vine; Hops, etc. Do email me; There seems to be a problem with GW getting follow-ups emailed out. Check out my list page; it's long yet still incomplete. Just ask. Cheers, Red Willow

Well, I just happen to have a list ... I do include a few evergreen trees that have dwarf or narrow forms that might be suitable for some needs. If someone knows of others, please add them on. Kalmia latifolia, Mountain Laurel: large shrub/small tree but dwarf forms are available (Elf and others). Shiny, handsome leaves and beautiful flowers that are attractive even in bud, extending the "bloom" time. No berries. Blooms in late spring. Morning/early afternoon sun with protection from hot afternoon sun is best. Shade tolerant but needs some sun to bloom best. Illicium floridanum, Florida Anise: medium shrub up to 10 feet tall but can be pruned for a smaller height. Aromatic foliage, red blooms and attractive star shaped seed pods. Handsome, glossy leaves that resemble rhododendron. Shade tolerant. Illicium parviflorum, Anise Tree: large shrub/small tree up to 20 feet tall but can be pruned to maintain smaller height. Aromatic foliage, white blooms and attractive star shaped seed pods. Handsome, glossy leaves that resemble rhododendron. Accepts more sun than itÂs cousin, Illicium floridanum. Rhododendron catawbiense: large shrub up to 10 feet. Pinkish/purple blooms in late spring, many cultivars available, including a white one (ÂAlbumÂ). Large handsome leaves. Shade tolerant but needs some sun to bloom best. Morella cerifera (used to be Myrica cerifera), Wax Myrtle: large shrub/small tree but dwarf forms are available (ÂDonÂs Dwarf is one, 4-6 feet). Aromatic foliage, small grey berries which birds eat. Tolerates full sun and partial shade. Leucothoe axillaris: medium shrub up to 6 feet but slow growing. Foliage is glossy and emerges reddish in the spring and bronzes in the fall. Tolerates moist, shady conditions like streambanks but is also at home in the garden. White flowers in late spring, no berries. Agarista populifolia: formerly considered to be part of the Leucothoe genus, this shrub is larger than Leucothoe axillaries, fast growing up to 10-12 feet eventually. Tolerates shade and accepts heavy pruning, even when used as a hedge. White flowers in late spring, no berries. Good candidate for shady evergreen screen when a tree is too much. Ilex vomitoria, Yaupon Holly: Tree and shrub forms, including a weeping tree specimen, ÂPendulaÂ. Several dwarf forms are available, including ÂNana and ÂSchillingÂs DwarfÂ. Small leaves, no spines, red berries which birds eat. Hollies are dioecious, requiring male and female plants for berries (can cross pollinate with other hollies that bloom at the same time, even if the plants are in your neighborÂs yard). Partial shade to full sun. Ilex glabra, Inkberry Holly: Medium shrub up to 8 feet, but slow growing. Cultivars such as ÂShamrockÂ, ÂCompacta and ÂDensa are available. Bigger leaves than Yaupon holly and no spines; blue/black berries which birds eat. Tolerates wet soil. Hollies are dioecious, requiring male and female plants for berries (can cross pollinate with other hollies that bloom at the same time, even if the plants are in your neighborÂs yard). Partial shade to full sun. Ilex opaca, American Holly (technically a tree): one dwarf form is available, ÂMaryland DwarfÂ. Typical holly leaf, red berries which birds eat. Hollies are dioecious, requiring male and female plants for berries (can cross pollinate with other hollies that bloom at the same time, even if the plants are in your neighborÂs yard). Partial shade to full sun. Prunus caroliniana, Carolina Cherry Laurel (technically a tree): can be a large tree (20-40 feet), but this plant is popular for screening and the cultivar ÂBright N Tight is widely available. Small white flowers and glossy leaves 2-3 inches long. Leaves should not be eaten by livestock. Tolerates partial sun. Magnolia grandiflora ÂLittle GemÂ: smaller than the species tree, this dwarf still grows up to 20-25 feet at maturity, 8-10 feet wide. Full sun for best performance, but this will tolerate partial sun. Flowers at an early age. Mahonia aquifolium, Oregon grape holly: native to the western parts of the US, this is not a holly, it is actually a member of the barberry family. It can grow 7-10 feet tall in time. Looks best in partial shade. If you are planting this, be sure that you get M. aquifolium and not the imported Mahonia bealei which is naturalizing itself into unwanted areas. Evergreen shrubs that are not native include nandina and ligustrum/privet. These have become naturalized over time in the Southeast.

Hi Emily, I am pretty new to the forum here but wanted you to know I live in Edmond as well - welcome! We lived here a couple years ago (for a couple years), moved to Aspen, CO for a year (for my husband's job) and now we're back and just love it here. I am trying to figure out what grows best here too. You may or may not have heard of this nursery, but I have had a lot of luck with the nursery here in town called TLC. They also have a website with lots of great info. too (tlcgarden.com) and if you go to TLC you can get a wealth of information from any one of the people who work there - they are all great. In addition to that, there is a weekly show TLC puts on at 8AM on Saturday's (I record it every week on my DVR) - it's on KWTV (channel 10 here on our cable). It gives a lot of great info. too. Just some thoughts for you. I love, love, love this forum. It's the great people like the ones who posted messages helping you out that have helped me as well with a lot of other things. It's new to me, but thanks to the great advice on this forum, I am trying my hand at rose propogation (along with other propogating). Good luck finding some beautiful things for your new garden. Julie

Dig Doug, what do you think about the blue cascade distylium? This is what the landscape designer suggested: Front entry island bounded by drive: o Tree removal: selected tree removal to provide better environment for understory and lawn plantings. Leave desirable and healthy specimens. Consider limbing up to raise canopy and structural pruning of existing trees to remain to improve light conditions for understory and lawn. o Create a semi-circular shaped lawn in island to relate to main body of house front corners. Consider adding a border planting at edge of lawn to transition to natural area beyond. Border plantings to consider include big blue liriope, Bordeaux dwarf yaupon holly or Wintergreen Boxwood, etc. Plant spacing close to provide instant hedge or border effect. o Consider adding “drifts” of raised beds with broadleaf evergreens/southern indica azaleas/ blue cascade distylium,etc. and native flowering shrubs/hummmingbird clethra/little henry itea,etc. along with a few cluster groupings of Brodie Eastern Red Cedar o Add 3-5 Flowering Dogwood and Forest Pansy Redbud between Cedars and street for additional color accent · Front foundation: o As started with Boxwood parterre/hedge planting to frame front bed between drive and foundation on either side of entry porch and corner Accent upright evergreen/Italian Cypress/emerald arborvitae/Spartan juniper o Theme tree: between house and parterre/hedge centered in middle – single stem Natchez (white) Crape myrtle (or as selected single stem crape myrtle) o Groundcover mass underplanting with dwarf gardenia or crown jewell gardenia · Brick planter: o Blue Cascade or Emerald Heights Distylium back planting with dwarf plum yew groundcover mass in front OR Duke Garden Plum Yew in back with Dwarf Gardenia or Crown Jewell Gardenia as groundcover mass · Left front foundation next to path to backyard: o Blue Cascade Distylium next to foundation with Boxwood or Dwarf Bordeaux Yaupon parterre/hedge with Miami Crapemyrtle centered on window. Mondo grass, liriope spicata OR dwarf gardenia as groundcover between parterre and foundation planting o Work to improve existing lawn: provide more sunlight through tree thinnings/removals/raising canopy where possible, add dolomitic lime at 50lb per 1000sq ft along with a complete lawn fertilizer for cool season grass/fescue per label · Groundcover mass between drive and natural area on side: Baltic Ivy or Vinca major or Liriope spicata