I think you guys are right that the seasonal pond is a vernal pool. When we ran our fence it follows the property line until we're about 40' from that pond, then we jogged it in about 20' to stay far away from it. The vernal pool is in this no-mans-land that is a paper road between our house & the neighbor's house. A paper road is one that is on the books as "something they could build someday" but it's never been built. This subdivision was mapped out in the 1950's, before wetlands conservation really took hold. I'm a huge fan of that vernal pool because I think it will make it hard for the town to ever build a road there, if it's ever recognized as wetlands (it isn't on the map of town wetlands today). So in a way I'm being hypocritical ... we disturbed soil & vegetation that's within the 100' buffer zone but I'm optimistic that the same pond will help keep that paper road from becoming a real road, if the town ever thinks about building one. It's been 60+ years and they haven't done it yet, so maybe they never will. Idabean - you're right about that bed, it is too small. The more I look at the space & think about where to have a veggie garden & a shed someday, I can see a sweeping path from the deck stairs out to the shed/garden, and that would make a better border for a much bigger version of that bed. It also gives me an easy walk to the post that holds a bird feeder. I don't take offense at your remarks, I've never had the luxury of looking at the big picture before. We've moved 3 times for work in the last 11 years and I'm not doing that again. So finally, we can put down real roots in this house. I've been trying to contact a couple landscapers who were well recommended but they're all very busy, so I won't get to work with a professional designer until late fall or early winter, probably. For now I'm just mapping out where we get full sun so I can figure out the veggie garden location with some certainty. My options for full sun are slim, these trees (and the neighbors) cast a lot of shadows. Terrene - we're in Eastern Mass, about 20-25 miles from Boston. $13k included grinding over 30 stumps (most guys around here charge $100 - $150/stump) plus several loads of fill and over a dozen loads of loam for the front, side, & back yards. I know, it sounds like a lot of money but the other estimate I had was $7k for just the front yard (which is less than half the size of this, and didn't have any stumps). Total time was 11 man-days (crew of 2 or 3 guys on the different days) and they hauled out a massive truckload of rocks they unearthed. I guess it might have been cheaper if I'd shopped around but I don't think it would have been much less, and I really liked this guy. You raise a good point about starting a lawn now. I need a ground cover to keep that white dog white during the muddy fall season. We'll have to overseed in the fall, and possibly again in the spring. The front yard is going to be bare until the fall though, b/c no white dogs play in the mud out there. Question ... I've seen this tool that is used to drill holes 12" - 18" deep in the area around the drip zone of a tree. One source (Minnesota's DNR site) suggests drilling holes every 1-2' near the drip line of trees that could have been damaged by soil compaction. Does anyone here have opinions on this? Smart, stupid, pointless? I know the best thing is to avoid damaging the trees to begin with & these guys did a good job of avoiding the root zones ... but I'm sure they had to drive over some roots in some areas. It probably would be impossible to NOT drive over some roots because the canopies of these trees touch. So I'm thinking about doing this drilling-thing to hopefully minimize any damage. Thoughts? Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Article on fertilizing trees

5 companies are going to give you 5 different answers. all will either accept ductwork as is, or find problems with it. each company will feel as if their solution is the most valid one. same with equipment. you have to sift thru...and make a choice. and stick to the choice instead of switching main stream to another scenerio. "I asked if it would be single speed and he said it would be something in between variable and single - but " it would be educational to know exactly what is between single speed & variable speed?? two speed? wth? in your posts, you've been given good information. I understand it is difficult to impliment this information into your build thru the gc & hvac contractor. but you pay for it...and then you live with it. you lack of knowledge of hvac is what is hanging you up. each company can tell you pretty much whatever they feel like..and you don't really know better. unless its been discussed here. and itrw...online advice isn't really powerful with the mindset of trades people. and if you don't apply the information...what is the use of asking for it? what you could do....if you chose to make a stand... is to hire an indpendent..load calc, duct sizing & layout. inspection of what you have...what can be kept...what needs to be changed..and what it needs to be changed to. then get bids for specifically what has been inspected, designed & sized. and to have this indenpendent third party to verify as install is ongoing & once completed. its a commitment...that truly... I don't think you'll invest in. but it is the right thing to do if you want to get the system right. you pay someone for thier expertiese...then you pay for whatever has been done..whatever modifications are done. and tradespeople talk..every company in your area knows what is going on. so you'll pay well for re-do. in your other thread you've lowrated luxaire on & on as cheap builder's grade equipment. EVERY brand has builder's grade equipment. people get too hung up on name brands. every brand has a lesser advertised brand. it is the combination of equipment for efficiency and the install of the equipment & design sizing & install of ducts that makes or breaks an install. you can put a mismatched greenspeed or xi20 in on a crap duct distribution system..and you'll pay top dollar for crap. poor performance, no comfort but you'll have a pretty name tag to feel good about. people need to plan for hvac & not let it be an afterthought...esp in hot humid climates. my luxaire 15 seer heat pump with variable speed air handler keeps RH to 52-55% ALL the time. I've used my whole house dehumidifier very seldom...and can lower RH as low as I want it. but because I planned on dehumidification prior to spending a penny...I got my RH needs addressed by the efficiency of the a/c & the vs ahu. of course it helps that I save 25% every month by putting my R-8 mastic seald ducts inside the conditioned space & not in the 130 degree vented attic. I went into the install of my system with everything planned & designed with the end game in mind. understand that you can buy an a/c unit...that can come with several different tags to be put on it. because...guess what..most are the same componets on the insde. so what brand do you want to call it today? and what if you get someone to agree to whatever it is that you decide you need? you going to pay for what the first contractor did? he didn't donate his time & materials to you. how does that work out in your mind? re-read your threads...pay attention to what you have been told repeatedly. pay indpendent..get someone what actually has a clue...or get ready to pay for what you have for a long time.and understand that contractor number one...the one you didn't pay attention to untill too late that did a lot of work already...he gets paid too. good luck...you'll need it.

Glad your eyes are all good and no serious issues. To be honest I don't see the implementation of the system as anything degrading to you or your colleague who also got put on it or anything saying you got lumped in the same bucket as that with no other responsibilities. Rather I see the reason for it as you both have people that come to see you so you got added as part of the sign-in system and that is what you have in common with the other advisors. It is only to make sure that students have continuity and same method for all points of contacts. Doubt it has anything to do with your actual position. Just that they want one system for all students to use so there is no ambiguity of what to do in either case. It is unfortunate that there was really poor communication. I do think I would bring up or file an enhancement request to the system (if you have a web based IT form) to request that they update the pinging to not happen to all people as it can be quite disturbing - not only when working on other things, but while advising the students as well. Since the amount of time spent with students varies based on the advisor type this can cause several interruptions to you and your co-worker, but maybe not as much with the other advisors. I'd phrase it in a helpful way and work on solving the only problem I really see with the system. As for students just dropping in, just say - "would you mind signing in and we'll have a chat. They've implemented a new system and although my door is always open having you sign in would be greatly appreciated"

Thanks lukkiirish. I got a call from my dog's internist specialist. She was her Dr at an emergency hospital most of last year when she became ill with an autoimmune disease (she was bleeding out and her platelets were near zero). Anyway the internist is up to date with her recovery and her blood work results. She said that a tooth root abscess isn't really an elective surgery and it needs to be done. She is confident that anesthesia will not be a problem for her in regards to her health, age or previous illness last year. Her blood work has been very good and she said to get it done. I feel better hearing that from her (a little!). I haven't been able to find much of anything on dogs who opted not to get a tooth extraction after a abscess but like socks mentioned of her sisters dog having to be on antibiotics schedule... which I don't want to have to do as I know it can be hard on the body. So as of now, it looks like she will do the extraction. Still have time so I'll monitor how she is feeling. The estimate was between $2500-3100. It's weird though because the swelling hasn't returned and she seems fine. She hasn't been wanting to go on our usual long walks lately but that might be the heat. When you have a older dog, you worry about every little thing!!!