Brewsters are notorious for the leaf tips browning. For me about 25% for the tip will brown. Brewsters are 'water lychees.' They love water and almost can not be overwatered. The light green color may be from nutritional deficiency (pics would help). But during winter, it helps lychee's bear heavier fruit by inducing stress to the tree. Here are my cultural tips: - Fertilize in spring after the first flush is 4-5", in case it is flowering this will be sufficient size for the flush not to be vegatative. Thereafter I fertilize an appropriate amount every other month with the last in August. (I use palm fertilizer, I like the minor elements to include iron). - Do not water, but under very high drought, from September 1 to the same 4-5" spring flush. Thereafter I water once a week. - On the months I do not fertilize I spray the foliage with a foliar spray. - If feasible apply a thick layer of mulch. I'm sure others can chime in with some more tips

Wow, it is puzzling. It doesn't look like an ower-watering issue to me, but since we're not coming up with any more likely possibilities, then it is something to consider. This late in the year, it has likely stopped growing, even in Florida temperatures. Pothos tolerates drying out pretty well, so let the top couple of inches dry between waterings. How long have they been in that soil? Did they grow well all summer? If so, they might be a bit pot bound now, which can cause some dry spots in the soil, or some roots to become so restricted that they aren't able to draw enough water. It isn't the best time of year to re-pot, especially if something else is causing the problem, but you should at least check this. Can you pull the entire plant out of the pot with the soil and rootball intact? If so, a photo would help us. Check the root ball and medium for dry or mushy spots, for discolored or necrotic roots, for root parasites, crowding, etc. A few, small disrupted places in the root ball where you dig in to check the condition won't hurt it, even this time of year, and if it's very pot-bound, you can plop the entire thing into a larger pot of soil until the spring when you can do a better job or repotting, detangling, root-trimming, and so on. What parts of the plant are affected the most? Were the oldest/lowest leaves on each stem affected first/worst/most, or is the damage worse on the younger, more tender leaves? Are there any parts of the plants that aren't affected? When was it last fertilized, with what, and how often? (Do not fertilize it now- that's the worst thing one can do to a sick plant if the illness isn't due to fertilizer nutrient deficiency.) It might just be lighting, but the plant in the upper photo appears to have an overall yellowish pallor. That would support Tiffany's hypothesis of too much water. Also, I see a yellow leaf near the base of a stem in the second photo near that little sprig of Acacia or whatever it is that's taken root there. Some yellowing is normal, but check through the lower leaves for more yellowing. Too much water or nitrogen deficiency both tend to affect older/lower leaves first. Evenly yellowing lower leaves is more indicative of too much water or poor drainage, while yellowing that begins at the leaf margins is more often nitrogen deficiency. Other things can cause yellowing though, and that curious staining appearance isn't typical of either issue, so don't fertilize at this point. More photos wouldn't hurt: Entire plant Root ball free from the pot Close-ups of the "stains"

It may grow past the damage. Or it may not. I personally would eat the fruit they produce--others may have a different opinion--but the badly damaged ones may not produce fruit or only produce a small amount, and it may be stunted. The brown spot on the tomato in the first picture looks like damage from rubbing against the cage. Such damage is no big deal unless a mold or something takes the opportunity to start rotting the fruit or it attracts the attention of a pest. EDIT: For future, maybe you can put your plants somewhere else on your property. If not, maybe you can talk to your neighbor and come to some kind of agreement or you can offer to pull his weeds by hand/hire a neighborhood kid to pull his weeds by hand or something, depending on what problem he's trying to solve.

Did you fill the planting hole with water before planting? Was the soil very dry when you dug the hole? How are you watering it? I leave a hose trickling very slowly for about a week or so @ the base of big transplants like trees & shrubs. I also use liquid seaweed extract to soak roots before planting and to water in. It's hard to tell from the photo, but how does the new growth look? If it looks healthy, not stunted or deformed, you may just need to be patient. There is such a thing as transplant shock - esp. for greenhouse grown plants suddenly exposed to full sun & the elements. Adding a bit of liquid fertilizer might be helpful as well. Papayas like rich soil, IMPE. I would also clear away all growth around the base and apply a thick layer of organic mulch. Leaves and/or grass clippings are good. And I'm curious why you chose a plant w/ a broken stem. Was it the only one there, or were they all like that?