I have suggested this colorway before but I just love it! House looks a creamy off-white. Caption from Decorpad: Lovely colonial home with coral front door painted Benjamin Moore Golden Gate and navy blue shutters painted Benjamin Moore In the Midnight Hour.

Here is our instructions for paint interior doors as well to help you out, good luck, and seriously get a new contractor ;) Interior Door Care & Finishing Proper care and finishing is very important to gain the maximum benefits from your interior doors. When finished properly your new doors should exceed your aesthetic and operational expectations. Below are a few key points everyone should know when it comes to the care and finishing of interior doors. Initial Care Interior Doors need to be acclimated to the environment where they will be installed. This process normally takes two days. Doors stored for more than a few days should have the top and bottom rails sealed with a prestain wood conditioner. Single (not pre-hung doors) should be laid flat on a dry, clean surface. Do not subject them to extreme or rapid changes in humidity or heat. Avoid finishing in hight humidty conditions. Finishing No finishing process exists today that totally eliminates the transmission of water vapor or moisture into and out of wood doors. The key to proper finishing is to slow down the transmission process so the door performs within tolerances. All doors have six sides--not two, not four, but six--front, back, two edges, plus the most ignored and most vulnerable, the top and bottom. Failure to finish all six surfaces uniformly is the number one cause of door failures. Sanding is critical--the first rule to remember is the importance of field sanding all wood door products. Every wood door, regardless of manufacturer or style, requires some surface preparation before finishing. The key component of this surface preparation is thorough sanding to remove naturally occurring surface blemishes, handling marks, dirt, etc. Each basic type of wood door requires a slightly different procedure. The following are sanding instructions from our key suppliers: Molded Doors Before finishing, lightly sand a primed molded door with 220-grit sandpaper. Blow off all dust, sand lightly between finish coats with 320-grit sandpaper. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. Wood Flush Doors Lightly sand the face of the door just enough to remove handling marks using 100-grit sandpaper. Avoid spot sanding and using too fine of sandpaper. This can close the grain and cause staining problems such as light spots. Note the veneer is approximately 1/100 of an inch thick on a 4-ply skin. DO NOT OVER SAND. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. Wood Panel Doors Before finishing, sand the entire door thoroughly with 150 or 180-grit sandpaper. This will remove handling marks, surface blemishes, cross grain scratches, drag marks, surface oil and dirt, thus allowing a more consistent finish. When sanding, always follow the direction of the grain to avoid cross-grain scratches. Remove sanding dust with tack cloth before applying your finish. How to Paint an Interior Door Supplies Required: High Quality Primer - Approx. 1 Quart (For wood doors - oil based primer only, for molded and MDF doors - latex primer is OK.) High Quality Paint - Approx. 1 Quart (For wood doors - oil based paint only, for molded and MDF doors - latex paint is OK.) High Quality, Synthetic Bristle Paint Brush Painter's Tape Sandpaper (Molded Doors 220 & 320 Grit, Wood Flush Doors 100 Grit, Wood Panel Doors 150 or 180 Grit) Cotton Cloth Elastomeric or Polyurethane Caulk (To ensure that the door unit is properly caulked and all fastener holes are filled.) Step #1 Ensure the door unit is properly caulked per installation instructions. If necessary, set and fill all fastener holes. Ensure all caulking is fully cured before proceeding to the next step. Step #2 Remove or mask off all hardware prior to painting. Step #3 Lightly scuff sand the door and jamb per above sanding instructions. Step #4 Wipe the door with a clean cotton cloth. Step #5 Apply a quality primer according to manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #6 Apply 2 coats of a quality paint according to manufacture's instructions. For wood and molded panel doors, always follow the grain of the door. Paint the panels first then the stiles and rails. Allow the door to dry completely between coats Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #7 Allow the paint to dry completely before unmasking and installing hardware. How to Stain Our Interior Door Supplies Required: High Quality Oil Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner High Quality Oil Based Stain* - Approx. 1 Quart High Quality Oil Based Polyurethane* - Approx. 1 Quart (Oil based products are recommended for interior wood veneered doors. Water based products can raise the grain and cause multiple moisture related problems.) White China Bristle Paint Brush Painter's Tape Sandpaper (Molded Doors 220 & 320 Grit, Wood Flush Doors 100 Grit, Wood Panel Doors 150 or 180 Grit) Cotton Cloth Tack Cloth Elastomeric or Polyurethane Caulk (To ensure that the door unit is properly caulked and all fastener holes are filled.) *You may substitute an Oil Based Stain/Clear Top Coat 1 Step Product for the Stain and Polyurethane. Step #1 Ensure the door unit is properly caulked per installation instructions. If necessary, set and fill all fastener holes. Ensure all caulking is fully cured before proceeding to the next step. Step #2 Remove or mask off all hardware prior to staining. Step #3 Lightly scuff sand (220 Grit Sandpaper) the door and jamb per above sanding instructions. Step #4 Wipe the door with a clean cotton cloth. Step #5 Apply an oil based pre-stain wood conditioner to promote uniform stain coverage and minimize sharp color contrasts that can occur in wood veneer doors. Allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #6 Apply oil based stain and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #7 Apply polyurethane top coat and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #8 Lightly sand (320 Grit Sandpaper) and wipe clean with tack cloth per manufacture's instructions before applying second coat. Step #9 Apply second coat of polyurethane and allow to dry per manufacture's instructions. Note: Make sure all six sides - front, back, edges, top and bottom - receive the same uniform coverage. Step #10 Allow the polyurethane to dry completely before unmasking and installing hardware.

Was this an architect or a draftsman? It does make a difference! Think LONG and hard about those exterior black windows. They are very trendy right now, but will someday date your house; white will never do that. I personally don't like them on houses that are channeling a farmhouse-look. A true farmhouse might have had dark green trim, but never black, The obsession with black has come from some very, very high end building/remodeling done using steel/bronze metal windows. They are absolutely stunning - very thin muntins (steel is strong!), and a bit of an "industrial" look. I very much wanted to replace an above-the-sink large bay window with steel windows and I could have...for $20,000. Not happening! I ended up painting the muntins INSIDE black (easy to do as they were old Pella snap-ins), but left the outside white like all my other windows. It was a good compromise and easily changed if I tire of it. But exterior muntins? The entire point of them being aluminum-clad is never having to paint them, a very large expense. Dark vinyl is said to fade (think how that great navy blue Izod shirt looks after a few washings - just never again quite the same), and that would make the house look awful. Look around you at true NE farmhouses and keep to a traditional look.

The granite is not shown. The large tile is a herring bone pattern on the floor. The shower walls are that same tile brick laid with 1/3 off set. The shower door is same color but with 1.5” squares. The accent wall in shower is the herringbone marble outlined with a natural stone that brings the two greys together. I don’t have a picture of it either. I think the pic makes the marble look cooler grey but it does have some warm grey in it also. I’m thinking of painting it agreeable grey sw.