Thanks oruboris... Duro is exactly who I'm looking at. I've heard great things about their product and so far I'm happy with their customer service, at least as far as answering emails goes. I found information on the below grade stuff on their website, here, section 1.3, letter "a": Duro below grade. I emailed them and their response was "We put this in our spec as a super precaution. There is no problem laying cork below grade as long as there is not excessive hydrostatic pressure. i.e. under 3 pounds per 1000sf using the calcium chloride test. This is a standard test for flooring." Now, I'm not exactly sure what hydrostatic pressure is, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the amount of moisture being released from the slab. Since we're doing everything possible to be sure the slab is dry (it's our main living space) I'm assuming we'll be ok using the glue down tiles. So, my only remaining concern is the radiant heat. It was my understanding that the floating floor is better over radiant because when it expands/contracts, the floor does so as one solid piece rather than as each individual tile would in a glue down situation (causing gaps), which makes sense to me. However, after looking through some old emails, you're right, they claim that both glue down and floating can be used over radiant. I'm not sure what they're saying with glue down then... maybe they don't expand/contract much if acclimated properly before installation? Ugh. So confusing!

Update: I attempted to email the inspector with my questions and such but he did not respond. The builder had told me if I had questions, to ask the inspector, but upon calling an inspector myself to ask about fees and doing an inspection for me, he indicated that they are not supposed to talk to anyone about the issue that did not actually hire them. Since the builder hired them and I did not, then the inspector could only talk to the builder. Once I understood that, I got back with the builder to see where we would go with this issue. Thats when I found out that they had noticed another failure just like mine in a spec house that they did. Same sub did the work. They went in and discovered that the wood floor came back up easy so the planks could be reused, so they redid it using different glue. So now they are doing mine. As I suspected, all of the wood planks have come up very easy with no breakage. There are some spots where the dri tak had held that caused breakage of the planks, but lucky most all were in one confined area since I had previously told them to stop using the dri tak as it was not in my opinion the proper repair. They are using a glue called rocket 7000 i believe. It is a different glue than what he used before. When the planks are pulled up, there is squished glue on the plank and on the concrete, but it is tacky to the touch but does not come off unless you scrape it off, which then it does peel off to some degree. Maybe it is supposed to be that way. Not sure as I have not got into any deep discussion with the builder or the sub about it. I just stay out of their way and am glad they are doing this at no cost to me. Builder and sub have stepped up to the plate to correct this, but it did take some work on my part and some bull headedness on my part. Most of the planks are being reused with some being replaced with new since they can still get them. Any comments or advice?

Ouch. Lumber Liquidators Bamboo at $1.19/sf....yikes. Run away! Far, far away! Glue down over slab in "lowcountry" South Carolina is a recipe for disaster. These areas with HIGH WATER TABLES (slab on grade) are the very reason man created FLOATING FLOORS. And no - your wood moisture meter is useless on concrete AND bamboo. Yah. Bamboo is NOT wood. It is grass. It contains SO MUCH GLUE (30% is common) that a cheap wood moisture meter (something LESS than $300) will not be able to deal with bamboo. And the glue on slab will be stupid expensive. I mean $3 per square foot type of expensive! And then you need to know HOW to apply it. And how thick. And what trowel. And that does NOT guarantee it will survive a wet spring. Please pick something else. And just for fun....go ahead and google Lumber liquidators - bamboo - lawsuits - dangerous off gassing. I would not touch this bamboo with a 400 foot pole.

You only step up where you need to provide the the appropriate coverage. And yes it's easiest to step up one block at a time, as the concrete is easier to place like that. If you can raise your soil level quickly from the door end, you can put most of the steps on that end and save excavation and a few CMUs. Is this a heated garage? Keep in mind that if it can get to zero degrees for a long time in the garage you could have some frost heave at the footings even at the rear of the garage if the footings are only 12" below concrete. Depends on your climate and what has worked in your area. Do you have a codes officer to bounce this off?