Restore old windows, or change them?
Guillaume Gaillard
last year
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restored old windows.. now they leak awful!
Comments (21)With all the talk about weatherstripping, here and elsewhere, I don't understand why there isn't more mention of the interlocking kind. It's original equipment on my 1913 windows and have heard mention of it here, google it successfully and it is the best thing I've ever seen or heard of. It's exactly what it says - interlocking. There's a folded piece of thin metal (zinc?) nailed along the length of each side of each sash and the stops. The top and bottom sashes interlock and slide up and down inside the strip on the stop. There is also interlock on the meeting rails and at top and bottom where a folded strip actually fits into a metal lined slot on the top/bottom of the sash. There's no way wind can penetrate. I don't know why it's so hard to find photos rather than drawings of them but if I ever get back to restoring windows I'll try to remember to make a point of posting a photo here. I have ancient triple track storms on most windows - I've only been able to find an old storm for one of my 28-30 windows (don't remember if I included the two attic windows in the original count) and no clue when they can be replaced. How old are they? How long does it take for aluminum to rust? They are heavy and tight, though and the combination produces no frost, no condensation, no air movement. I visited a neighbor who had just had "top of the line" replacements installed and could feel cold and plenty of air penetration (an honest to pete breeze.) I tried not to be too visibly smug but it redoubled my commitment to my old windows. Here is a link that might be useful: the best illustration I found...See MoreRestoring Old Windows
Comments (7)Thank you all so very much for your suggestions! I think I will splurge and buy the infrared paint stripper. And the 5 in 1 tool and copper stripping brushes sound like a great idea. On another note, I just finished restoring all my 1940's upper and lower kitchen cabinets. It was fairly easy because I didn't have to deal with stripping paint. The paint on them was an off white, so I prime spotted in the chipped paint sections, and then painted over them. Actually, the whole process was quite elaborate with sanding in between coats putting a nice old fashioned beeswax over them. They literally feel like satin when you touch them. I used simulated milk paint (Olde Century), and it is very thick and you have to work quick because being latex, it dries quickly. I will have to post pictures when I put it all together. I am, however, stripping the paint off on the outside of the cabinet "boxes". So far so good. It came off with just a scraper! The wood underneath is in good condition and once I got started I couldn't stop because I was so curious to see what the wood underneath looked like. But, since I painted the cabinet doors, I will be painting the boxes too. I have a tiny kitchen and keeping the cabinets wood color would be too dark for the room. The only thing I am having professionally done is having the 8 drawers over the lower cabinets replaced. The gunk and stench was too much. I let them air out for over a year, and to no avail, it still smells horrible. Plus, I couldn't for the life of me get the built up gunk of almost 70 years off of them. I had a carpenter come over yesterday to measure and will call me this week with a price. Like I said, I'm so grateful to have all the tips and help from all of you. When it is all put together, I will certainly post pics! Thank you, thank you, thank you!...See MoreRepainting / Restoring Old windows Questions with Pictures
Comments (1)If I were doing that job, I would min expand foam, deeply inside the cracks, and very lightly, its easier to spray again than to cleanup the foam from the bricks,also even though its min. it can push the jambs tighter, making windows harder to operate. once it is sealed, You can bring the foam out farther or just buy backer bead for the caulking in the front. Use siliconized caulking not straight latex. I use polyseamseal brand caulking, its as much adhesive as it is caulk, while still being paintable. more expensive yes, but I dont want to do things twice. (spray bottle and rubbing alcahol, makes smoothing acrilic/siliconized caulks alot easier)...See MoreRestoring old and neglected apricot trees. Help!
Comments (17)monibucky I don't know if they make a fruit picking pole, but what I use is a swimming pool telescoping skimmer pole. I tape a milk jug to the end of it. I cut the top of the jug and make a vie cut to catch the stem. Then when the fruit is in the jug with the stem in the vie you can use the pole to pick it and the fruit falls into the jug. You can just keep on going till the jug is full or your arm gets tired. If the plastic isn't strong enough you can use a vegetable can and do the same thing. I pick all my best apples this way at the top of the tree. I hope this helps some of you out....See MoreGargamel
last yearlast modified: last yearoberon476
last yearlast modified: last yearGargamel
last yearlast modified: last yearoberon476
last yearlast modified: last yearGargamel
last yearMichael Hilber
last yearHomeSealed Exteriors, LLC
last yearWindows on Washington Ltd
last yearlast modified: last yearGargamel
last yearlast modified: last yeartoddinmn
last yearWindows on Washington Ltd
last year
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