I have a Bosch 30 induction. I don't remember which hobs have which power, but, I do boil a small serving of pasta in my 2 qt. saucepot in the blink of an eye, almost. I cannot lift heavy expensive cookware and my relatively low cost stuff works perfectly. No buzz. I lift and swirl and it doesn't shut off. It is true that folks just have their preferences. Some just like flames. Maybe they appreciate their cooking more if they are sweating. (Food Network chefs sweat a lot) I have a new gas stove, 2003, at our vacation cottage -there is no comparison. But, we don't cook much at the cottage. The only advantage to gas would be to char a pepper, wok or cook during an outtage. My Shanghai born dil is a superb cook and uses large skillets, no woks. In my case, having a zip-zip cleanup, without soaking or scrubbing grates, would overwhelm any gas advantage. I prefer not to sweat during cooking or cleanup. And not smell gas.

Kevin, you have the coolest place. I'd love something like what you've got, Kevin, for our back door, but a regular chime for the front. I'm wondering if I can get a chime activated by a pull-button apparatus instead of a push-button. Maybe that will be awkward for people though. What I really want is something that doesn't seem contemporary. Our exterior hardware is from Rocky Mountain Hardware in a brass-ish color, but made of bronze. It's not the most Georgian thing, but it works with our multipoint system. Anyway, I don't know if I should just get one of theirs, maybe a simple circle or rectangle, or try to find something really cool and historic looking.

now I feel like I'm at a complete loss.... using my meter to test continuity I traced pin 1 along the board. Half way through one of the buttons I lost tone (it was reading something like 25 ohms). I kept the one lead on the button and moved the other from pin 1 to pin 8 and I got tone again. Can anyone explain that? From what I think is going on, pin 1 and pin 8 are virtually the same (electrically speaking they follow the exact same trace) but it's like it has too much resistance or something and can't make it all the way through the board or something so pin 1 stops half way through one of the buttons and pin 8 takes over and finishes. I have no clue, I feel like I'm loosing my mind and grasping at straws. I've got to get something figured though and get my shop back up and running. As for figuring out what is rows and what are columns, I think I can very easily. Overlaying the two membranes on each other I can see the grid very clearly. But it still doesn't make sense to me that I need to touch three leads together to get a function and not just two. I know it's not just a coincidence either. I get NOTHING with just two leads touching. Of course this frustrates me to no end though because I feel so close yet so far away. I'd have to double up wires on one side of a push button, but of course doing that causes problems the more and more buttons I add because more and more wires get connected together and act as one. So SOMEHOW I need to come up with a button that will momentarily close three connections and open all three when the button is released.

Yep, you're right: The push-button switches are easy to find. The screw-on rotaries? Not so much. But even if you manage to find a used one for sale, I'd still pay heed to Jake's point: Are they really safe by today's standards? Keep in mind that virtually all permanent wiring these days is protected by some kind of a box and that's why there's still a trade in push-button switches. But the days of unprotected, brittle bakelite fixtures screwed onto the wall are pretty much over. This might be one of those times when foregoing historical integrity in favor of safety is the better part of valor.