Fellow tall tree lovers: Let me quote this entry from way back in 2009 radagast(US east coast) "For more information regarding accurate tree measuring, please visit the website of the Eastern Native Tree Society (ENTS) We have lots of information regarding east coast species as well as some on west coast species. There are also plenty of article about accurate tree height measurement methods, historical tree height claims, etc." The work of the Native Tree Society on tree measurement is outstanding, if not "revolutionary." The common measuring technique "of the past" ( I hope it is really "of the past") is what can be called the "tangent method." This involves measuring the distance to the base of the tree from the "observer," and then taking a clinometer reading from the same point to measure the angle to the top. If the ground is not level, a similar measurement of the angle to the bottom must be made, and another tangent calculation. Then addition, or subtraction. The NTS has checked some of the height measurements of the trees listed by the American Forests in the past as national champion trees, and has found errors of as much as 30% or more in those measured by the tangent method. The reason for the errors is not simply errors in the use of the "equipment," but in the fundamental assumption behind the calculations. This tangent calculation assumes that there is a right angle created by the "facts" of the observation, but this is often not the case--in fact, it is virtually never the case exactly. There are two reasons for this. First, IF the actual top of the tree is sighted, it is most likely not directly above the base, as must be assumed if any tangent calculation is used. If it is close to being directly above the base, the measurement will be fairly accurate. Second, and this may result in more serious errors sometimes, what is sighted as the top, may not actually be the top, but some foliage/branch that is closer to the observer than the actual top. This error also in all probability "messes up" any assumed right triangle required for any tangent calculation. The most basic method supported by NTS can be called "sine top, sine bottom." This involves the use of a laser range finder and a clinometer. I start by reading the distance to the top, and then reading the angle to the top, and then doing a sine calculation. Then I repeat, reading the distance to the base, then the angle to the base, and then another sine calculation, adding or subtracting the results as needed. This method can fail to give the correct height of a tree ONLY if the actual highest point of the tree is not sighted. As for the right triangle needed for the calculation, it is always present as a mathematical certainty--it is embedded in the basic assumption that the sine calculation is based on. In other words, if the distance and the angle are read along the same line from the same point, the right triangle is assumed in the sine calculation. No error in this regard is possible. If what is sighted is not actually the top, but a part of the foliage that is closer than it would be if it were directly above the base, the error will give a result somewhat less than the actual height of the tree, not significantly more as is usually the case with the tangent method. The sine method will give an accurate reading, always, of the height of what is sighted above the level the observer is standing on. The NTS Website contains the most detailed description of this most basic sine top, sine bottom method, along with other methods of measuring tree heights, explaining the pros and cons of each. The Wikipedia article on tree measurement is a very good brief summary, giving the "essentials." --spruce

Well, I have put 11 years of hard work and training into him, and he is cute, so I hate for all of that to go to waste. :) I haven't told him that I had made the final decision for the brick red. I'm not sure if it matters to him anyways. The only thing his has cared about is getting his outdoor kitchen! I think you should order the red windows behind your DH's back! Once they are in, not much he can do about it.:) My DH is the same way. He has a hard time "seeing" what something different could do for the home. But, I have an advantage that you don't. He is colorblind! So all I have say to him is that he has no place commenting on anything regarding colors! Oh, I hope I have made the right decision. I can just imagine my MIL asking why in the world did I put red windows on the house....then my husband saying he thinks it looks evil....

Thanks, folks! I would love to do reclaimed floors. Unfortunately, they have been impossible to find here in the right size, and having them brought in from elsewhere would completely blow the budget at this point. We tried very hard to save the kitchen flooring so we could at least use part of it, but it was in horrible shape. I am going to keep my eyes open and see if I find anything for reclaimed wood. The floors were not stained when we refinished them, and they have never been waxed. (Except if kittens sliding across it on dropcloths count! When we were doing some plaster repair, Oliver and his brother, Toby, would jump from the stairs and slide across the room.) So I guess it could be either Douglas or Southern yellow pine. Does the fact the house is in Massachusetts make a difference? We got samples of Mercier pre-finished hardwood flooring, and the closest matches were in their honey finish: white ash, then white oak, then maybe red oak, then hard maple (for color, not at all a match for graining.) So unless something comes up for reclaimed flooring in the next two weeks, we will be using the white ash. Thanks again, Emmie

Hi, you should see if rubbing alcohol takes the old finish off (in an out of the way place). If it does, it's shellac. If the finish and color is in good condition, I sure wouldn't sand it (old house forum can advise - dings and scratchs in shellac very repairable.) Poly can go over shellac as long as there is NO WAX IN, or ON TOP OF the shellac. If you have to remove it get what you can off by softening it with denatured alcohol and using a scraper on it when it's soft, and then sand only to get a smooth surface. Otherwise sanding shellac can be a mess - it gums up the paper and the friction can cause black scorch marks in the wood that can't be removed (been there done that). The guy in the floor store recommended Bona deep tone sealer(DTS) for my 100 yr old fir, and I was skeptical - till he explained that the slightly brownish/amberish tint helped even out the tone and bring out the beauty of old fir. I couldn't be happier with how they turned out - a deep rich honey color. This post was edited by kashka_kat on Wed, Oct 30, 13 at 20:18