Have troy built pony from 78 to 81 era. The motor been replace by Honda ge 160. The transmission pulley is sloppy the bolt is tight. You can move it around by hand. What is missing? A key , bearing? Serial number 118349 stamp on transmission frame. Other numbers 20512CT. 8F2 24/82. Tring to find Manuel and parts list.

Kerdi Update: I've gotten a couple of emails regarding the newer "Kerdi-DS". First, emails. I often get emails sent to me through the G'web email system, and because of the sender's setting on his/her G'web account, those emails can not be replied to. So don;t think I'm rude for not replying to your question. More often than not, it's literally impossible for me to reply to your email due to your account settings. Kerdi-DS. What is it? It's simply a thicker version of plain ole Kerdi. Kerdi is 8-mil, Kerdi-DS comes in at 20-mils thickness. Why is -DS now getting attention here in North America? Because TCNA has changed their recommendations for membranes used in commercial or heavy use steam showers. Recommendations for residential use steam showers have not changed at all. What or who is TCNA? TCNA is the Tile Council of North America. You might see references to TCNA when it comes to installing tile. TCNA publishes "best practice" guidelines for tile installation. You have an organization like TCNA which is fairly nimble when it comes to changing recommendations for installing tile. Then you have "building code", which only gets updated every few years, and updates are subject to influence from various interest groups; be they trade groups (plumbers, electricians, etc) or large corporations that make building materials. TCNA will often make tile/shower/bath recommendations that improve building practices several years ahead of those changes being implemented into state or national building codes. Blah blah blah. So what is this about? We have water barriers, which limit the penetration of liquid water. Then we have vapor barriers, which limit moisture vapor penetration. At a minimum, a water barrier is needed in a shower or tub surround. A more robust barrier, or a vapor barrier, is needed in a steam shower. Protection from vapor penetration has been typically defined by a product's "perm rating". Previously, if a product had a perm rating of less than 1.0, it was considered a vapor barrier. Example, a topical membrane that I use often is Hydroban. Hydroban has a perm rating greater than 1.0, so it can be used as a waterproof membrane in a shower, but it won't suffice as a vapor barrier in a steam shower. A product like RedGard has a perm rating of less than 1.0, so it can be used as a waterproof barrier in a regular shower, or as a vapor barrier in a steam shower. Kerdi? "Regular" Kerdi, the "standard" 8-mil thick Kerdi, has a perm rating of around .90, so it can be used as a water barrier in a regular shower, or as a vapor barrier in a residential steam shower. TCNA has revised their recommendations for vapor barriers used in heavy use or commercial use steam showers. Health clubs, spas, etc. Whereas the old recommendation was to use a material that simply had a perm rating of less than 1.0, for commercial installations like listed above the recommendation has been...

If you use the correct procedure and work carefully it is very easy to do. First off, give yourself plenty of room to work. Begin by marking where you want the stub out to be, then make a horizontal line on the wall about 4" above and a second horizontal line about 4" below. Begin on either line at a point about directly above the point where you wan the stub out to be and punch the saw into the wall, then cut horizontally until you feel a stud. Next gpo back to your starting point and continue cutting the horizontal line in the opposite direction until you feel the stud on the opposite side. Now go to the other line and repeat the process. You can then cut down on each end, keeping the saw tight against the stud and remove the sheet rock. Keep the sheet rock intact because it will fit back in the hole perfectly to close up when your done. Cut two pieces of 2x4 about 3" longer than the distance from the bottom to the top of your hole. On either side of the hole slip a piece of the 2x4 in so that the 2x4 is sistered tight against the existing stud and the tips of your 2x4 are slightly behind the sheet on both the top and bottom. Secure the short 2x4 to the stud with a couple screws. Now measure the horizontal distance between your new 2x4's and cut a piece of 2x4 to make your blocking. Insert the blocking and secure each end with a couple screws, then you can attach your drop ear to the blocking. Once you have the drop ear mounted mark the location of the drop ear on the sheet rock panel you cut out, drill a hole for the stub out, then set the sheet rock back in the hole and secure it to the 2x4's on each end with a couple sheet rock screws. At this point you will have a slight gap equal to width of the stab saw blade to mud and tape.

jcorn1 - Glad your test was successful! And sorry to hear about your friends problem. Curious though as to how they knew it had a leak when the tile had been started, but not finished. Did they do a test then with only part of the tile laid but the shower not finished? Was their install done by someone with Schluter experience or was it a DIY job? Just curious. I will have a water test done by the tile setter, but I doubt it will be a 48-50 hour test! What I may do is a test of my own for that extensive length of time AFTER the shower is completed. I have a one year guarantee, and if that shows a problem, I would call them back quickly and make them rip it out and redo it. And hopefully we could still get extra tile to match the rest of the room at that point. Not sure about the Schluter warranty info you got over the phone. All I could see on their website was info saying that doing such a test was "recommended". I looked at the warranty info on their website and didn't see anything specific about a water test; it just said material had to be installed in accordance with the handbook and "industry standards". The install handbook says that water testing is "strongly recommended to verify a successful installation". I guess they would point to that, but other sections of their website and literature make a big deal about how you can set tile right away. In one place, it says water testing MAY be performed and says it is a BEST PRACTICE. And the water test is technically not part of the install and would not affect the outcome - its just a way to verify a good install. It could be that if water testing is required by local code, they would point to that as a reason to void the warranty, but otherwise I think it would be a tough argument. In any case, there's no way I want to experience a failure after the tile has been laid, so I agree that it's good insurance - but definitely not a 100% sure thing if failure may only show after 50 hours!