Are you cutting back with decorations this year?
fnmroberts
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Funkyart
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Ive been cutting this back for years... a vine? a native hibiscus
Comments (13)Steady on Funnel - I'm not sure our cousins would appreciate that Strine earthiness. If you open up the photo and click the little magnifying glass you will see that either those are lenticels or they are a variety of teeny weeny scale which likes to live in colonies of unparalleled neatness. It's usually best not to be too emphatic on these forums. Lots of posters start off certain of themselves but discover there are more things in heaven and earth ..... bboy and saltcedar both have distinctive voices on these forums and we are used to them. Most often they are right. Sometimes they're wrong and then they acknowledge it. They don't insult the people who taught them something new....See MoreWhat time of year can you cut back a bottle brush tree?
Comments (12)If it's a Callistemon, they're as tough as old boots. The traditional time to prune is after the flowers die, and just cut off behind the spent flowers as the seed pods form. Otherwise, it'll start looking like this, with fewer and fewer flowers over the years... And it's a common practice to cut the whole tree/bush back to near ground level, where it'll come back bushier and healthier than ever. They do like moisture, and I've commonly seen them growing on the banks of rivers and dams, where some of the roots are constantly wet. They're not bothered by frosts or summer heat. They grow here happily through -5C (23F) winters and 40C (104F) summers....See MoreGeneral Sikorski - first year in ground, cut way back?
Comments (8)Hi Ginny I would cut-em and not look back. The more you prune the more stems in the future you will have. I have 25 or more any where from 2 years to 10 plus years and I am the queen of pruning. I have been know to cut some down to ground level on purpose, and they do nothing but come up with more and more new shoots. I have a polish spirt that is probably 3 or 4 years old and it has been in a pot up until I planted it late October last year.It had done great in its pot and was 10 feet or more tall last year and was covered in blooms. It had about 6 vines on it when I transplanted it last year and I cut those down to about 6" and then I buryed most of those when I planted it deeper during transplanting. Looked at it over the weekend and I has 10 or more new 2" tall dark green health stems coming from the ground now.. It should be gorgeous this year. I have a group #2 some times I will cut 1/2 of it's stems down to the ground just to make it put out more stems and leave the other 1/2. I have a Ramona that is probably 10 years old and she is a group 2 and she has 20 or more vines on her right now. I have an Asao which is group 2 and she always puts out new shoots from the ground wether I prune her of not. I Always try to prune some of the vines and I also try to leave some on the 2's for the early blooms. My Ms bateman is coming on strong right now, I just clean her up a bit, not much pruning required on her and she will have probably close to a 100 blooms on her, she's a early girl for me. My Jackmanni right now probably has 15 to 20 new stems come up as well as Nelly Moser, Ms. Thompson has probably 6 new stems on her....See MoreHow long do YOU wait before you cut back tulip foliage??
Comments (15)thyme - definitely remove the seedheads from the big tulips and daffodils as soon as you see them start to form - actually, as soon as the tulips drop their petals and the daffodil flowers start to fade, I cut the flowerstalk down to the base. It reduces the 'mess' factor considerably by not having that dead-straight yellowing stalk poking up. It's easier to hide the basal leaves among other plants than it is to try to hide that stalk! But the small 'botanical' tulips and dwarf type daffodils should be allowed to set seed because most of those will spread nicely from seed without as much weakening of the 'mother' bulb - or at least the seedlings get to flowering size before the 'mother' bulb wears out. Judy - tulips are usually recommended to be planted about 6" deep - I aim for 8" in heavier soil and 10" or more in lighter soil (which I don't have!) In your climate, I'd think planting deep would increase their odds of returning for more years. Another important factor I think is to not water where they are too much during their dormant period. I don't think they like that. So make sure any companion perennials are not water-hogs that you need to provide a lot of supplemental water to in the summer. If I know I want to divide or move a clump, I wait until the foliage is ready to be removed and do it then (usually early July here). I that is not good timing (e.g. because I have to move/lift the companion perennial too and it's not a good time to disturb that plant...) I just mark where the bulbs are, either by leaving a bit of the old stems showing or put a few sticks in the ground or something like that... Then I can find them easily again when the time is right to move them. When we dig them, we start the hole back from the edge of where we've marked the bulb location. We know how deep them are, so it's fairly easy to dig them up without too much risk of damage....See Morefnmroberts
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