Thank you msjay2u for the link to the vent extender and deflector which I know will be helpful in some rooms. I think as long as I do not put heavy curtains on my two windows in my bedroom and I treat them separately, I will not have the worry I thought since I will not need the 4.75" clearance I thought I did and 2.75" will just work. If I find that I need 3" and the sheers are too close to the vents, I love the deflector idea so the sheers will not be touching the metal heating vents. I guess no one knows what is best for my door since I have the links above. This post has helped me greatly since now I do not have to find a curtain rod a little bigger than 120" long and if I ever sell my home, I really did not want to block the balcony door but I could not see it any other way until all of you opened my eyes and I know one of the treatments will work. I still would like to open and close my sheers so I am thinking that 3/8th white rod with the cute pineapples on the end may be nice or the clear ones but the I am not sure if I will be able to open and close the sheers or lace. Does anyone on this list have the Shari or the Emma Lace and/or anyone can tell me which they like better since the Shari sheers I would have to order online and their white says "cool white" while the Emma Lace panels says only "white". I also still like the crinkled sheers in a less bright white but I am waiting to see if there are any other people who read this post who would like to vote. I got so much done today and that has made me realize to take my time and I will love whatever I do to my windows. Thank you. P.S. Did you see my link above to what my heating vents/registers look like? You seemed to have gotten it right with the deflectors.

Okay, well that link didn't work. I'll try again. The funny thing about these rods is that when I first saw them, I said to myself, "oh those are dumb...they'll never work" because of the little rectangular rings. But, now I need them for fixed panels and I think they'd be great. I am trying to have my very own Cote de Texas WT moment and put up a woven shade behind the rod. I realized that since the window is on a landing, it will be seen from above and below, so I need a rod that is pretty hefty. Somehow a big round 2" rod just seems gigantic. Okay...enough rambling. Gotta keep looking! Here is a link that might be useful: here's the JCP ones

First-- you can buy extra hook carriers so you are not limited to the number that come with the rods, though you probably won't need them. Second--For full drapes you will need 3x the width of the window or the width you want the finished drapes to be if you make them wider than the window. If you make five finger pleats you may need more. You will need the length you want the finished drapes to be plus an extra header width and a good sized hem. If they are full length drapes I usually put a 4 or 5 inch hem, but it depends on your material. Don't go too small or they look cheap. To make pinch pleats. You need header tape. Remove the selvedge edges from the sides. Put the header tape on the top end 1 1/2 inch in from the edge--stop 1 1/2 inch from the other edge and cut the tape. Fold the material down over the tape 1/2 inch and sew. Make a 1 inch hem on the sides. Now fold the tape down so the tape is enclosed in the material and pin. Now comes the measuring. I prefer a 3 finger pleat. If I want extra fullness I make the pleats closer together. You need 1 inch for each finger--a 3 finger pleat requires 3 inches. Measure 1 1/2 inches from the edge and make a mark. You can use chalk, sewing pencil or even a soft lead pencil. You don't need a big mark , just something you can see to mark where the pleat pocket is. For a 3 finger pleat with 2 inches between pleats---Measure the curtain across the top. Take off 6 inches--for ends and pleat at the end. Divide the remainder by 5 and see how it works out. You may have to increase or decrease the end measurement or make it 2 1/2 inches between pleats.now measure 3 inches and make a mark. Now mark the distance between the pleats 2, then 3 for pleat repeat across the top. Sew your pleat loops from top to bottom of thr tape so you have one big pleat. Now pleat the loop and finger press into 3-- 1/2 inch pleats and stitch across the bottom of the pleats at the bottom of the tape. If you want to make it easier then buy pleater tape that has strings you pull to pleat them. This makes very nice pleats all across the drape. The tighter you pull the strings the fuller the pleats. You sew it on flat and then pull the strings and tie them off. I suggest you get hooks that go the full length of the tape in both cases. Little hooks tend to make the tape fall forward on top and if you put them higher the rod shows. I also suggest that you look at rods that have wooden rings on top and clip on to the drapes. They are as easy as a shower curtain to open and close. The link below is very good and it will give you a lot of info about making drapes Here is a link that might be useful: tutorial on drapes

There are many types of pinch pleats, from barrel pleats to 5 finger pleats. Did this curtain have any pleat at all or was it just a flat panel. If you haven't sewed drapes before, there is drapery tape you can buy that lets you pull strings to pleat it in the style you want. Have a look at the link below. I've never used this link and there are other sites that sell it too as well as fabric stores.Other sites may have different configurations of pleats too. The tape is a fairly stiff acrylic webbing and will give body to the drapery top. I suggest you use a full length hook--from the pocket in the tape to the top of the drape--to keep the top from dipping forward. If you don't want to use the tape then there are instructional videos on line on making drapes. Here is a link that might be useful: Drapery tape