Fixing a "topped" young maple tree
Comments (16)
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Comments (11)Somebody pass me the smelling salts-we're talking about fertilizer spikes again! Can't somebody somehow get these ridiculous things off the market? I guess I can answer my own question there....if somebody could, I would have by now. Even if there is a reason to provide nutrients, placing large amounts of these salts in one tiny little area of the root zone makes no sense, from the plant's point of view. Simply spreading (broadcasting) fertilizer over the top of the soil or mulch layer or what have you is the easiest and the most effective way to deliver nutrients to the upward-facing feeder roots which lie directly beneath the surface. Meanwhile, in other news, frost cracks, ring shakes, and other cold weather anomalies have never been correlated-in my experience-with any kind of nutrient deficiency. Out in the woods, where maples originated, they are among the most shade-tolerant of trees, as a group. This does suggest they may not be especially good at handling full. direct sun while in their youth. Hence, the many tree wraps, tubes, paints, etc. Might be worth a try in this instance, although it must be said too that most maples that people plant do not end up needing such treatment. +oM...See MoreYoung Sugar Maple Pruning Guidance Needed
Comments (17)The tree doesn't care a whit that a main leader would be cocked to the side, or if it is central and purely vertical. Neither does it care that there are secondary and tertiary leaders coming along as competition. It is only the human masters that care about this stuff. But it is telling you that it favors one particular trunk to be the main one by sending the preponderance of energy to it. I would listen to that message. If a straight-trunked, single leader tree is the end goal, then to achieve it, at some point not too far down the road, every branch but for one, the one that is to be the central leader, will be removed. The branches are young and flexible enough that any one of them could easily be "molded" into the straight and vertical central leader position. It would make sense to pick the strong one since it is obviously where the main growth is already directed. Just tie it to a 2x2 pointed stake driven firmly into the ground in order to make and keep it straight and vertical. After a year or two, the trunk will hold its shape and the stake can be discarded. My thought regarding whether to leave the other branches on or to remove them, is that neither option is really wrong. This dilemma is the one of focusing on form vs focusing on growth. More branches and leaves = more growth ... but we already know that in the end, it will all be removed from the finished form because it is growing in the wrong place. It will neither be a part of the adult tree trunk or of its canopy. Keep in mind that when X-amount of foliage is removed, 70 - 80% of X quickly regrows from the already established root system. Personally, I think it's worth the sacrifice of 20 - 30% short term size reduction to get the form established early in youth, such that all growth from that point onward is headed in a more correct direction (straight, single trunk.) Keep in mind that after the removed foliage is quickly grown back, that the tree will continue to grow ... because it's growing season. By the end of the season it will probably be 120%, or possibly more, of what it is now, with the problem of "who's the leader" having long been solved. Any knottiness of the young trunk caused by removing a cluster of branches at its base is a non-issue. This will automatically disappear in short order as the tree heals and gains size. That the tree has been in place for 4 years and is only this size (I understand that it froze back once) makes me wonder if you give it supplemental water and fertilizer, both of which are important in the early years. If you either don't, or are skimpy with these things, I'd give them a try and see if you can get some improved growth out of it, as by my standards, it's going too slowly for what it should be doing. After it's up and running, you could cut back....See MoreYoung sugar maple pruning questions
Comments (21)I'd remove the right fork in the second picture immediately. While it is a strong joint as already pointed out, it's too low on the tree for my liking. I prefer my trees to have a single trunk until at least head height or just above. And more importantly, if left to grow, it will likely prevent that straighter, center, natural leader from developing branches on that side of the tree. Think of it as "hogging the sunlight" as it continues its vigorous growth. I'd then cut the other two remaining large branches back a couple feet to slow them down. Those can be removed at a later time once the tree has begun to develop more branching on the current leader. How tall was the tree when planted? If it was a seedling or short whip, that is a remarkable amount of growth for only 4 years. Which leads me to not worry that much about stunting growth with what I have recommended to prune off above. Plus, in my opinion, any loss in vigor is an acceptable trade-off for pruning to create a fuller-looking young tree with better shape, better branching. As Embothrium has suggested, you should try to find a pruning manual with good illustrations to help you out on your future tree trimming....See MoreWhat is wrong with these young trees (sugar maple, white oak)?
Comments (6)Yeah, what tsuga said. If this is a recurring problem it would sure be nice to know what it is. imo, it's likely iron or magnesium deficiency caused by high ph. I would try the chelated iron. It's an extremely temporary fix, but what the heck, right? If the plants perk up you'll know it's that. I have heard that it is extremely difficult to lower the ph of soil. Especially so if there are sources of high ph material in your native soil, like limestone. I think it can be done with say potting soil if you want to grow blueberries in a small area, but on a large scale I've been told almost impossible....See MoreChristy Fitzgerald
2 months ago
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 months ago
BillMN-z-2-3-4
last monthlast modified: last monthMaple trees in general have a 'mind of their own' when you're trying to grow a single leader. They tend to grow in a decurrent manner and want to form a 'ball' shape with branches going outward in all directions, especially when grown in the open. So, expect doing light pruning over the next few years.
I wouldn't touch it during the cold season. Branches tend to be quite brittle in colder weather and could snap/break trying to bend them. Also, the top branches look to be on the slim side, so I'd just use a bypass cutter or lopping shears to remove the extra leaders and stub.
I've been working on this tree for several years. You can see the trunk is not perfectly straight but will become less noticeable over time. It's getting to the point it's too tall to continue reaching up that far, so it will be growing in a more decurrent manner as the years go by.
picture from 10-1-2022:
Christy Fitzgerald thanked BillMN-z-2-3-4Christy Fitzgerald
last monthken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
last monthlast modified: last monthChristy Fitzgerald thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5BillMN-z-2-3-4
last monthlast modified: last monthThis is similar to what I use. Climbing ladders or foot stools are a thing of the past for me.
I have a 12 ft. pole when extended. I do recommend getting one with the steel pruning hook. The plastic hooks tend to crack after a while and are thicker so not as easy to get into the branch crevases. The hook will clip up to 1" diameter branches and the saw takes care of larger limbs.
I also have a hand saw and other tools for when limbs are low enough to be working from the ground.
Christy Fitzgerald thanked BillMN-z-2-3-4klem1
last monthBillMN-z-2-3-4
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
29 days agolast modified: 29 days agoSorry but I didn't read through all the posts, so I don't know if this was suggested. It's a very easy fix. Prune off the top immediately below where the 4 top branches converge. Leave the stub because you'll be using it as a stake. Select a lower branch that looks flexible and is oriented at least somewhat vertically, and tie it to the stub, using a strip of towel or something similar that won't cut into the bark. You might need to use more than 1 strip and tighten it monthly if the branch doesn't bend willingly. You could also make a few shallow cuts with a hacksaw blade on the outside of the bend in the new leader if it is uncooperative insofar as bending it. It will make it easier to bend and it will heal just fine.
Prune all growth off the stub above where the new leader is attached, and allow nothing to grow from the stub, it is only there to provide a temporary anchor point.By next fall, the new leader will be set and you can remove the stub. There will be no branch collar because of the disparity in diameter between the new and old leader, so leaving a short stub is fine. When the new leader adds secondary growth (thickens), you'll eventually be able to identify a branch collar you can use as a pruning guide.
Too, it looks like the primary branch below where the 4 branches converge has a secondary branch very close to the trunk that looks like it is almost vertical. That near vertical branch could also be manipulated to serve as a new leader, unless the camera is playing tricks with reality. It might just be another primary branch on the opposite side of the tree. I can't tell.
Al
Christy Fitzgerald thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)BillMN-z-2-3-4
28 days agoAnd just to add another method (which I was going to do with my maple picture above).
I've used a wooden dowel to direct a new leader (branch) into a vertical position.I don't have pictures anymore but here's an image from the U of Mn.
I used plastic garden tape in several places along the trunk and new leader.
With this method, you could use one of existing leaders at the top for the new leader.Remember to remove the tape or fabric connections after the first year so they don't begin to constrict the trunk, which they will eventually do.
Christy Fitzgerald thanked BillMN-z-2-3-4Christy Fitzgerald
28 days ago
klem1