Mine is 34" so that's at about 70" or 5'10". This height is probably good for people as tall as 6' or so. I'm 5'10" and my wife is 5'8" so it's about right. Mine is wall mounted 54" (24" depth) "pro" canopy style so it's got good capture volume. I would have mounted it at 38" above countertop if it were 28" depth. A lot depends on the hood in question. More powerful hood with deep capture usually specify higher range vs a flat panel or "stylish" models.

With all due respect, we *did* call Kobe (as noted above), and the tech representative they directed us to confirmed what our electrician told us. Possibly he was wrong, or they've since changed it. However, Kobe also provides a very detailed list of parts and packages in their manual, all of which were present and accounted for---and when we talked to the tech guy, he didn't mention any extra parts they'd forgotten to list in the manual, so I highly doubt the issue was that we threw away an unlisted part that would have resolved the problem. We knew that the hood cable was coming out of the internal wiring box on our model (as noted above!), since it's clearly listed and illustrated in the hood technical diagrams, but per Kobe the internal wiring box on our hood was not designed to serve as a junction box between the two cables nor was it designed to be accessed by the consumer. So if that's the box and clamp you're talking about, it is a wiring box that is there to bring the hood wiring together, not a junction box to connect this wiring to a house line. I'm curious to hear how you ended up installing it, though, if you did end up connecting the two cables inside of the internal wiring box. (We did not go that route because Kobe was clear that it would void the warranty on the hood if we opened the wiring box to thread an additional cable into it.) At any rate, our problem has long since been resolved to everyone's satisfaction, the project has been finaled, and we like the hood (and its electricity) very much!

Thanks for the input guys. I really appreciate it! Yup, we are actually in the punch list stage. Cleaners and painters were there. Just had to get the trim kits placed on the refrigerator/freezer and done. This happened to be the only hitch in the whole 2500 sq/ft addition project. I have a feeling it was the 9000lb elephant in the room that nobody wanted to address and was not noticed until the cabinets and countertops were set. A HUGE hitch if you ask me, but, everyone we have used has been top notch and have addressed every issue we have come across. Talked with the GC today, and my idea was the best solution. We are going to remove the siding on the exterior wall, place a 2x6 fake wall adjoining the existing studs, sheet, reside, and run an insulated chase to avoid any type of condensation issues. This solution would also cover some of the masonry issues we had joining the addition to the existing brick wall and brick patio on the porch. Some of it was chipped up, and the brick wall was needing a patch job. All in all, I think it will come out great. The other solutions of having just a chase punched out and run along the wall outside in the covered porch area would look rediculous, and a ventless hood was not going to work for us. Thankfully, this is the only place where this type of extreme solution would work and nobody would be the wiser. If that range and hood was on any other wall, we could have just punched it out and placed a vent. We didn't want all those fumes vented to the front porch area. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. You guys have to see the "White Princess" quartzite countertops my wife used. I'm ready for this project to be DONE! Nocode

"I bought a microwave to go above the range and vent outside" I'd exchange the over-the-range microwave oven for a countertop model and put a hood over the range. I think a cabinet with the bulky microwave beneath it will look very unattractive. Perhaps a model with a slim and shallow chimney (example) would look best. -- amateur