I like to do cuttings in the spring when light is stronger and longer, and have more success than propagating in the winter. For Succulents (Euphorbia and Aloe), make sure the ends of the cuttings have dried and calloused for a few days, then put into dry, very well drained soil mix. Don't water, or mist lightly, until new top growth is seen. Your Flytrap is best repotted into a mix of perlite and sphagnum moss, and kept as cool as possible (they're hardy down to 20F) during the winter. Keep the soil moist, as they are bog plants outside in the southeast. Never fertilize, and try to avoid tripping the traps, especially during the winter.

Toni - Thanks for the reply. Pictures are linked below. I should clarify that it was, in fact, my wife who has overwatered. She's been suitably chastised and will not be watering any longer, trust me ;) The rot has, to date, only been visible in the roots (though it was extensive). The trunks are not soft on any of these yet. The two in the first 5 pictures are approximately 6.5-7' tall. The other 3 pictures show the three that share a pot and are about 3.5' tall. Unfortunately none of these dracaena have shoots/branches I could use to propagate - all are straight up, as you'll see. So I can't take any stems without either air layering or just chopping pieces of stalk off, which is what I'd been hesitant to do. They've all lost more leaves than is evident here, probably in the range of a dozen or more on each of the large plants and closer to 8-10 on the smaller ones. I suppose the question is, would cuttings like I'd have to do even be strong enough to root, given the weakened state of the plants. Hard to know for sure, of course. I should also mention that I do know it's best to pot in a container inside a ceramic pot and not directly into the ceramic pot. As a matter of personal taste I'd always gone with direct potting into the pots like you see, including large gravel in the bottom and potting soil mixed with perlite. My experience had always been good up until now (isn't that always the way this stuff happens?). Of course, had I potted within the pot this post wouldn't even exist, likely. But for now I need to do what I can to save them. Also, as I mentioned in the previous post I had been meaning to repot these, especially the smaller plants (isn't that ALSO always the way?) which were quite intertwined below the surface. If they survive separation is in order, as well as a good chop to reduce gangly-ness (true for the big ones as well). Thanks in advance! -M Here is a link that might be useful: Dracaena with root rot

When it comes to growing in pots, what does more to eliminate a list of problems commonly incurred by a high % of growers is learning how to make or select a soil that allows the grower to water correctly. You'll notice that was frequently mentioned upthread by a number of growers who have a lot of collective and individual experience. The most common symptoms growers come here seeking remediation for are: Sickly plants Plants whose appearance has been spoiled Off-color foliage Stalled growth Abnormal or distorted growth Insect infestations (including gnats) Diseases other than root rot Root rot High salt levels in the soil solution Several types of nutritional problems Issues with pH - usually high pH An inappropriate soil can and does cause every one of the issues listed, and others I'm sure I forgot to mention. By simply adopting a soil that can be watered correctly, all/any of the listed problem can be taken out of play, so even if you're only looking to solve the spoiled foliage issue, it's a sure bet you're practicing preventive medicine with regard to the other potentialities, even if unwittingly. Watering more sparingly when you water can help to alleviate some of the listed issues, but there are some on the list that won't be taken out of play, or could even be made worse. If you'd like to chase this a little further, let me know. It does take some extra effort, but you can also save a few bucks if you make your own soil. I'll link you to an article I wrote that can go a long way toward eliminating all the common limitations most growers are tolerating or trying to deal with. See link below. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Click me to see what he was talking about.

Hunter, Palms arent too common here either! Some of the botanical gardens and zoos are catching on though and a few houses nearby do have palms, but its nothing that you would find too easily (unless you knew where to look). Virginia Beach has tons of palms considering that if you go just a bit north or west, you will barely see any! I think that VB is the farthest north you can go to get that Palmy southern feel (Norfolk, Virginia also has a few palms around and lots of other southern favorites like live oak, crape myrtles, southern magonlias, long leaf pines, camellias, and gardenias so it defintely feels a bit subtropical there as well, but not much futher north or west than that). Also, I doubt the sagos survived. It was a cold winter and even during a warm winter, they arent usually expected to survive (unless they have protection). Islandbreeze, the trunk and fronds on that palm looked a bit trachycarpus like to me, but they do look similar when very young, especially when there is a ton of vegetation covering most of the plant. Chadec, I will have to check that agave out! Do you have it and if you do, did it survive the winter? -Alex