All waste & overflow kits that are listed with maximum dimensions are the slip joint type which have telescoping pipes for the drain and overflow riser with a compression type slip joint to adjust the size. The tub you specified is a built in tub, which means the waste & overflow kit will ultimately be concealed under the tub once everything is complete therefore even if you do find a waste & overflow kit listed for the dimensions your looking for it will do you little good when your Plumbing Inspector hangs a red tag on it for being code prohibited. The Plumbing Codes strictly prohibit using compression joint type waste & overflow and P-traps unless you will ultimately have a dedicated 12" x 12" service access panel either through an adjacent wall or up from underneath. For a concealed location you are required to use a glue-in type or if you insist on brass, a solder-in type waste & overflow kit. Personally I fail to see what advantage you might gain from insisting upon a brass waste & overflow in this application. While some people might be lulled into the notion that brass will last longer than PVC, in the real world such is not the case. The brass waste & overflow kits are constructed of DWV grade thin-wall brass tubing which is notorious for corroding through in 25 to 30 years whereas the PVC type are impervious to the acids present in DWV piping and have a nearly indefinite service life expectancy. In addition, the brass waste & overflow kits are about $150 whereas a PVC glue-in kit is generally less than $20. Of course you could get a brass solder in type kit for about $130 to $175 and an additional $50 to $100 labor for installation. The PVC waste and overflow kits principally have three main components; 1. The cast "overflow body", which is the PVC casting that fits behind the tubs overflow hole. 2. The "Tub Shoe", which is the female threaded casting that fits directly under the tub drain hole and into which the tub "Drain Basket" is screwed into. 3. The Tee. The pipes which connect the overflow body and the tub shoe to the tee are supplied by the installer from 1-1/2" PVC stock pipe an custom fit to length. The kit also contains a brass drain basket, brass overflow trim cover and whichever stopper assembly you might desire, whether it is a toe-tap, lift & turn or a lever lift type. The Danze-D490637RB you mentioned above is not a waste & overflow kit, but rather it is a waste & overflow "trim kit", which only contains the overflow cover, drain basket and the lift and turn stopper. It has no pipe or fittings to make the connections below the tub however, The dimensions of the trim kits is an industry standard, therefore you could go to your local hardware or home supply and purchase the cheapest PVC "Glue-In" type waste and overflow kit they have, then you could use the PVC components but discard the trim-out components and replace them with the Danze trim out kit and you will ultimately have the correct waste & overflow to meet code, complete with the "oil rubbed bronze" finish you are looking for all for about $75 in total.

Id replace with a pressure balanced valve.......and regardless get that drywall away form the shower Even though the knuckleheads at orange say its OK and a few of the other Tile mechanics here on Houzz .....:):) promote it.. You are about to spend a lot of $ and leave an old valve in there. One slight plumbing leak from BEHIND the drywall will cost you an arm and a leg to Redux it again. I have replaced multiple orange showers from drywall that was exposed to water from the wall cavity. Only then do people "get it" and they are never happy about it. "The orange MFG say its ok to use drywall" but they arent going to pay for replacement, they do however love to sell product 2, 3 times until it does work........ If you are persistant to move fwd. Take that Valve picture over to Terry and you will get an answer quickly, hes got a guy named HJ older than dirt that knows every valve from say the 20's !

5. If this is a new sink, you put the faucet on before mounting the counter top to the base. In this case, you have clear access to the mounting hardware, which mostly goes on by hand. If the counter top has already been mounted, then you need a faucet wrench.basin wrench And some plumbers putty. 6. depending on your cutoff (and if you don't have a main cutoff in the house), you might need one of these. water main key Crescent wrenches (different sizes) work better than channel locks in my opinion. 'regular' pliers.

Why would a plumbed version be any more of a problem when it breaks than a non-plumbed? Worst case if you replace a plumbed with a non-plumbed then just cap the supply & drain tubes. A non-plumbed has a pump to go bad and that is also the part most likely to fail. Plumbed uses house water pressure in place of the pump so is less likely to need repair to begin with. I can't understand $1500 for the plumbing except huge profit for the plumber & builder. When I added a coffee station in my studio it cost $700 and that was a 60' run for both supply & drain and included plumbing for both a sink and an espresso machine (Breville Touch). Are you sure they didn't say $150?