alas DH keeps asking why we can't have the microwave OTR, so I've looked into the Advantium. He says we can't do the 240, too hard to get a separate circuit, but I'll compromise and go with the 120. I was going to put the microwave in a cabinet, but that was when the cooktop was in an island. Now that I'm going with the GE Profile double oven freestanding range, it has to against the wall, so my whole design has to change. Just when I thought I had it all figured out, the puzzle pieces changed size and shape!

So do you run a home nursery and going to have small, under 5 year old children in your house for decades that are not yours? So possible lawsuit situation, in which case I would just close off the kitchen completely. I seriously doubt there is any difference between an NXR door verse a Verona door. Most people simply make way too big a deal about this oven door temp thing. My guess would be like for about the past 250,000 years of human existence that if the child touches something hot they wont do it again. Also most burns that happen in the kitchen come from hot WATER/Liquids or from an "Open" oven door not the outside of a door. If you think you are going to child proof a kitchen you are dreaming, that would be like child proofing the middle lane of the freeway. Best thing is to keep them OUT of the kitchen altogether. I mean even our 2 year old Chihuahua has a chair that she sits on at the edge of our kitchen so she can see everything we are doing but stay safely out our way so she doesn't get stepped on or something dropped on her etc. Took us about 2 days to train her to go right to her chair and stay there. Lets hope that most children are at least as intelligent as a 2 year old Chihuahua. I was checking ours out last night again, my wife turned on the oven to 400 to preheat it and we went out to pick something up, so when we got back the oven was ready to go to bake some bread to go with the sketti. So it was pre-heating and being used at 400 for about 2 hours. I placed my hand on the glass and it was "warm" at best probably just over body temp so about 100, just below the glass was even cooler, less than body temp. The only parts of the door that were remotely hot was the crack between the door and kick plate and the very top edge of the door both areas are actually hard to reach. The handle was actually room temp at best so around 70ish degrees. I have a feeling that ADCO states this because NXR simply says what the oven door could possibly ever get to if left on 500 or maybe broil for hours on end, it could probably reach 150 on the top edge of the door.

I am unaware of any effect that would cause a baffle to make more noise at low speed than a [clean] mesh filter. One expects air turbulence for the same flow rate to be greater with a mesh filter. Further, baffles make very little noise at low speed. I can only hear, under quiet conditions, a bit of motor rumble from my roof mounted fan. (Scaling my Wolf Pro Island hood to 30 inches width would scale my fan to a nominal 750 cfm at full speed, or maybe a real flow rate with pressure losses of 450 cfm. There is only modest baffle noise even at full speed.) It might be safe to observe that mesh filters load up with lint and grease, so once fairly well blocked, the air flow would decrease and whatever turbulence noise there was would attenuate with the reduced flow. Under normal use baffles are immune to blockage of this type. The important factors are a hood large enough in aperture area to encompass and capture the rising expanding effluent, large enough in aperture volume to support the air flow rate in containing and expelling the effluent, and sufficient air flow rate. If the OP chooses a mesh filter hood, I recommend close attention to filter cleaning, possibly on a weekly basis depending on observed filter impairment rate. kas

spent most the day looking at ventilation systems. Thinking about replacing current system with 10 inch rigid ducting, broan external blower 1200 cfm (not that much of price difference compared to lower CFM https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-External-1200-CFM-Blower-for-Broan-Elite-Series-Range-Hoods-335/100025769#product-overview, and broan hood shell 30 inch with 24 inch depth https://www.homedepot.com/p/Broan-NuTone-Elite-30-in-Range-Hood-Shell-with-Light-in-Stainless-Steel-E60E30SS/202905883?#product-overview. I didn't look too much into silencers but I think this is what you all are speaking of in the forums I've read so far... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Fantech-LD10-Galvanized-Steel-Silencer-for-10-Duct.  Waiting for broan to respond about a duct cover since i dont have a cabinet there. I looked at faber, but nothing is available with higher than 600 cfms at 30 inch depth (must keep that depth because my cabinets are in the way). Also looked at prizer, abbaka, bluestar, z line, dacor, GE, stuff at home depot, stuff at costco, stuff at friedmans but something was either the wrong size, cfm, or not available. There is a fivestar that works but no pictures to see if the inside of the hood is "tent" shaped as recommended by @kaseki. @Joseph Henderson any other recommendations for good value brands? I looked at wolf too but the duct cover was so expensive! I started my journey contacting HVAC professionals in the Los Angeles area to see what they would recommend, but I haven't had much luck finding someone who does vent hood installation or would recommend something roof mounted which I found frustrating and odd. One company did recommend a KOBE internal hood with 600 CFMs https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOBE-Range-Hoods-30-in-600-CFM-Stainless-Steel-Wall-Mount-Perimetric-Range-Hood-with-Flame-Temp-Sensor-Auto-On-Off-and-Fan-Control-CH7730SQ6-WM-XX/310852212 which would cost 2500 including hood, installation, and "ducting changes". I found it a little odd that his recommendation for hood CFM was so low and the hood actually does not require any ducting changes whatsoever (Duct Width 6 inch). Another company had someone come in for an estimate and then said they wouldn't be able to give us a quote for a month due to covid. Another company I called for recommendations said just pick the appliance and he will install it. When prompted about what he would recommend he said usually the more expensive the better... Would love to have any recommendations for installation in Los Angeles area if possible since changing the ducting does require cutting a hole in the roof and futzing around my attic. i feel as though this is a VERY important part. havent heard back from friedmans (who sells appliances in our area) @M yes, I was on houzz forums last night reading about flexible ducting and fearing a house fire X__X larger rigid ducting is definitely at the top of my list. @Buehl I am limited by cabinets on each side, will definitely look at something deeper at least 24 in, seems like there aren't a lot of options that are deeper than that. I appreciate everyone's input. You've been more helpful than the professionals that I've contacted! I've been looking through houzz forums I can't believe @kaseki responded directly to my post! thank you so much it really seems like you know what you're talking about I will definitely look for 800 cfms and up.