One other thought about window treatments -- if the idea is to introduce lots of light colored material onto the surfaces of the space to brighten it, then one strategy could be to use curtains that extend way past the window trim, covering more of the wall than usual. Typically the recommendation seems to be for drapes to extend 6-12 inches on either side of a window, but if you bent that "rule" and went a bit past the 12 inch mark, maybe the Houzz police would give you a pass! For the big three window bank, for example, I'd probably extend the curtain to the halfway point between the window edge and the wall and start the rod well above the window towards the ceiling. From the photo, it appears that there are sconces with the wiremold metal covering at the window edge, so you'd need to take that into account somehow. I might use shades at the windows for any times when you want to cover the windows and fabric sidepanel drapes from the sconce towards the corner, which would simply be decorative and never actually close over the windowglass. Curtain rods are made specifically for that kind of window treatment (see first photo).

If you're wanting a more rustic or mountain cabin look, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. The posts are not larger than 6"x6" and many end up being smaller and round and more ornate with white railing (though I prefer the plain 6"x6" myself). Like these posts: http://acountryfarmhouse.blogspot.com/2012/06/our-front-steps-and-walkway.html You could extend the depth of your porch so that the overhang of the front of the porch roof extends to be even or nearly even with the two story left wing of the home and do consider a concrete porch floor-- it will last a lot longer. You create a block foundation/form, fill in with hard packed dirt and then pour a 6" floor that slightly overhangs the blocks ... which you can face with brick or stone. Then you can use the same brick or stone to enhance the curb appeal of your home and its new entry door. With the new door, showcase it with some great brick or stone steps at least as wide as the door. Since you need only a few steps and have a wall on the left side of the porch, consider starting the steps across from the front door so they are covered with the deeper porch roof and have the front of the bottom step even with the front of the front porch, adding a brick or stone wall between steps and the porch to the right of the steps that can be usable as a railing ... in lieu of adding an actual railing. On the right side of the porch consider adding a "gazebo" feature -- there are different kinds of roof designs you can use if you don't want to just use a hip roof corner -- and have the front porch wrap around that right front corner of the house at least enough to create the wider gazebo feature and add steps leading from the porch toward the back yard. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/112730796896550817/ If you're wanting rustic or mountain, you could use cedar with a natural wood finish but most country porches ended up being painted white. Know your local building codes. You may be required to have a railing or wall depending upon the height of the top of your porch floor. Depending upon the building codes and whether you have small children that actually need a rail ,,, since your porch is not that high off the ground, and especially if you add depth to the porch so there is less likely to be people bumping into each other knocking each other off the porch, you might consider just adding a hedge in front of the porch rather than replacing the railing. Alternately, if you do decide on a concrete floor with the front faced with brick or stone, you could create a brick or stone "railing" and even have it be able to double as seating or a wall usable for a plant stand for your favorite flower pots..

The third picture is a screenshot of one idea. Also, the door and window beside it will be replaced with a large sliding door.

I agree with the others that you should live with them a little while. What we cannot tell from here is what condition the cabinets are in, i.e. do they work well for storage, do the doors and drawers open and close easily, are the shelves inside them OK, etc. If you find that their condition and/or functionality isn't good, then there is no point in painting them, as it would be throwing good money after bad. Instead you might want to save up for new cabinets in a layout you like (if this one turns out not to be good). Just from the photo, I am having a bigger resistance to the black counters than to the cabinets. If it were my kitchen, and I wanted to do just improvements rather than an entire renovation, I would change out the counters rather than paint the cabinets. The backsplash to me is fine, especially if it was with lighter counters. If you paint the cabinets, the black counters will still be there, swallowing light, and looking a little bit 1999.