Excess rinse aid will cause sudsing. I've heard mention that one of the rinse aid products (either JetDry or Cascade, don't recall which) apparently changed their formulation recently and is noticeably thinner. If you've started a new bottle, perhaps that's related. I also recommend against using liquid or gelpack detergents. A powder with enzymes is best (and even better with phosphates but phosphate detergent formulations are unfortunately pretty much gone off the market). Has your machine always had trouble with drying or has that problem developed recently?

I had the same problem, not draining at all. I ensured the drain hose was not crimped. I then removed the hose from the air gap and put it in the sink and ran the DW, it did drain into the sink so the problem was: the air gap, or the hose from the air gap to the garbage disposal. I took the hose off from the air gap to garbage disposal and checked that - no blockage. I took the air gap out, and saw it was blocked. This air gap allowed me to take it apart: a broken piece of glass had jammed in the air gap, and a small piece of plastic had jammed against the glass thus totally blocking the air gap. I cleaned it out the the DW works fine.

What Miele did not tell people is the fact that there are two different types of Air Gaps described in both ANSI (American National Standard Institue)/ASSE (American Society of Sanitatary Engineering) 1006 / AMAM (Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers) DW-2PR-1986 (Section 3.1.1 Inlet Air Gap & 3.1.2 Drain Air Gap) and in 2010 California Plumbing Code (Section 203.0 Airgap, Drainage & Airgap, Water Distribution). They are for different purposes to comply to with the Codes. Inlet Air Gap is for âÂÂprevents reverse flow from the dishwasher to the house water supplyâ per ASSE 1006-1986 Section 3.1.1 Inlet Air Gap. Water Distribution Airgap is for âÂÂunobstructed vertical distance through the free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet conveying potable water to the flood-level rim of any tank, vat, or fixtureâ per 2010 CPC 603.2.1 & 603.3.7. Drain Air Gap is for âÂÂprevents reverse flow from the house drain plumbing to the dishwasherâ per ASSE 1006-1986 Section 3.1.2 Drain Air Gap. Drainage Airgap is for âÂÂunobstructed vertical distance through free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe, plumbing fixture, appliance, or appurtenance conveying waste to the flood-level rim of the receptorâ per 2010 CPC 603.2.1 & 603.3.7. MieleâÂÂs âÂÂinternal air gap of greater than 1 inch on the potable water supplyâ satisfies requirements in ASSE 1006-1986 Section 3.1.1 and in 2010 California Plumbing Code 603.2.1 & 603.3.7., but its âÂÂinternal check valve and air break on the waste dischargeâ does not satisfy requirements in ASSE 1006-1986 Section 3.1.2 and 2010 California Plumbing Code 807.4, because there is not such option described within the sections; in fact, it requires âÂÂthe use of an approved dishwasher airgap fitting on the discharge side of the dishwashing machineâÂÂ, which we can find the listing standard in Chapter 14âÂÂs Table 14-1 of 2010 California Plumbing Code âÂÂDrain Air Gaps for Domestic Dishwasher Applicationsâ per ASSE 1021-2001 !!!!! The provision in regards to domestic dishwashing machine has been published in Uniform Plumbing Code and/or California Plumbing Code for at least 28 years (the oldest version I found is 1982 Uniform Plumbing Code). The entire sectionâÂÂs text has never changed/revised with exactly the same words from first alphabet to the last alphabet including punctuation.

You are right. Sorry I didn't catch that, in the image. You cannot leave it that way. You already know most of the big reasons why not. If you need to read all the problems, find out about sewer gases. Some are lethal (but my saying this is not designed to give you nightmares). The DW connection has to go on the other side of the P trap. You can buy more hose instead of replacing that one. Radiator hose for car motors is good because it is smoother inside. The reason these cheap hoses are corrugated is to ensure they never collapse. A smoother inside wall can reduce noise quite a bit - not in all cases, as it depends on the flow and how you configure the geometry of the fall. HTH -david