Should I prune MAC?
dianela7bnorthal
2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida 8b)
2 months agodianela7bnorthal thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida 8b)dianela7bnorthal
2 months agoRelated Discussions
Can I/should I/ how to prune flowering quince
Comments (1)It depends the best time to prune is in the fall but if you don't mind a hacked bush through the summer you can prune after blooming....See MoreWhich should I do first? Prune and Move or Move then Prune
Comments (5)It would cause less stress to you, the rosarian, to at least partially prune the rose before moving it. Cut back the bulk of the bush, dig up as much rootball as possible then try to keep them somewhat even in size. If you have 6 inches of root, keep six inches of cane, etc. Established roses can have a heckuva rootball and digging up the entire thing and lifting it out of a hole is nearly impossible. I figure any damage to my back will be far more costly than a new rose bush....See MorePenny Mac vs. Endless Summer and pruning
Comments (5)ES is a macrophylla, same as Penny Mac and blooms on old wood. Any pruning past mod-late summer and you may remove next years flower buds. ES was a slow starter for me. I planted 2 in early fall, one from 3gal., one from 1 gal. The following year, the larger one had 3 blooms, none on the 1 gal. 2nd year, about a dozen on the large one, still none on the small. Third year was charm! The large one produced 75-80 flowers and a few on the small one. Each year since, the larger plant has produced in excess of 100 flowers and the smaller one is trying to catch up. They usually begin blooming by Easter each year, but not so this year. I still don't have a flower bud on either. This past winter was very hard on macrophyllas and serratas. For the first time ever, I am having to remove dead canes on the majority of them, some have required the removal of all of the old canes. I don't expect to see many flowers on any of them this year. So goes the luck of a gardener! Rb...See MoreShould I Prune Tomatoes
Comments (9)I'm no expert, but I do grow tomatoes and have a really short growing season so I need to know all the tricks to push plants to produce before first frost. For like hybrid determinate varieties, I only prune from the very bottom up on the main stalk when the plant is at least at 75% of its potential size and pushing out clusters of flowers, some with pea-sized fruit sets on them. At that point, I can tell who's taking up energy on the way to the fruit, and who needs to stay. Older looking, woody looking stocky branches growing off the main stem with only leaves and no new growth at the bottom of the plant go at that point. Also, if I'm seeing the season peaking and moving downhill towards fall which hits like a freight train here, I'll start pruning the small branches before the first cluster of flowers to direct energy to fruit production, but be careful not to clip off fruit producing branches. Determinate's (meaning they push out all their fruit at once, then die) only have one shot to make tomatoes, so a cut flower is a lost tomato. For like indeterminate heirlooms or something of that nature, I'll be more comfortable performing the same kind of pruning as mentioned above, because the plant will just keep growing until it gets too cold and it dies. However there are a few things to consider with indeterminate tomatoes (meaning they produce till frost comes. They'll just keep growing and growing) 1. If you clip off only from the bottom and remove suckers from the middle, it will grow up and likely get very tall. Think about supports. 2. If you clip from the top, it will grow out from the middle and get really wide and stocky. 3. Indeterminate tomatoes will keep pushing out flowers and babies for as long as you let them, potentially taking energy away from other developing fruit. It's up to you to take the chance, or clip new blossoms off. Some consider this nothing less than sacrilegious. I just say they're your plants, do what you want with them, especially if you start getting nervous as fall approaches. Remember that leaves are like (well they are) solar panels. The energy they collect gets distributed to the nearest parts of the plant on that stalk. So if there's a big healthy branch near a cluster of fruit, leave it so the fruit can collect the good stuff from the sun that branch is getting. Other reasons you should prune: Signs of disease like blight or any kind of fungus Branches that inhibit free air flow and promote fungus growth Branches that touch the soil should really be pruned off when the plant is a good size, but that's up to you. I can't think of anything else. I'm no expert, but I like answers that close the loop and don't leave loose ends....See Moresultry_jasmine_nights (Florida 8b)
2 months agodianela7bnorthal thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida 8b)fig_insanity Z7a E TN
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agodianela7bnorthal thanked fig_insanity Z7a E TNdianela7bnorthal
2 months agolast modified: 2 months ago
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