Choosing the right flooring type isn't enough for your living condition. You will have to consider the types of cut: flat sawn, rift and quarter sawn, quarter sawn or live sawn. Quarter sawn and rift & quarter sawn will be best choices, because expansion and contraction is along the thickness of the wood. You will need climate control all year round. 70 degrees at 40 % relative humidity is where you want to be throughout the year. The use of a humidifier/dehumidifier will be needed year round. Although, engineered flooring is more stable than solid. Using the wrong wood specie in your living condition can run the risk of de-laminating with engineered wood. If, the top veneer is more or less stable than it's core and backing. You will experience de-laminating in extreme humidity swings. Take in account of what the engineered flooring is constructed of: mdf or plywood. The width of the flooring will account for how much expansion and contracting also. 2 1/4" strips are the most stable. As you go wider, expect to see more wider seasonal gaps. Proper acclimating is critical, should be performed with a moisture meter. For 2 1/4" strip flooring , sub-floor and flooring moisture should be within 4%. For all other widths 2% moisture differentiation is allowed or should not be exceeded. Don't forget proper expansion gaps, which is the thickness of your flooring, example: 3/4" thick = 3/4" gap. Sub-floor type and condition will affect the performance of wood floors. All this needs to be considered for the proper and successful performance of your wood floors.

The x98 looks like a typical 2-part water borne finish with low odour and low VOC content (the information page indicates "less than 200g/L"). Cure time = 4 days. I would expect the odour to reduce or be eliminated by that time. This is typical for 2 part water borne/based finishes. http://www.pallmann.us/uploads/tx_dddownloadmatrix/Pall-X_98_PDS.pdf If Pallman is the only water based product the finisher uses, then you should be fine. Please ensure that they plan a total of 3 coats. Some refinishers will try to convince people that two coats are all that are needed....which is where we get the issues with finishes "not standing the test of time" = complaints. When it comes to wear resistance I prefer the Loba 2K Supra AT (2-part water based finish out of Germany that has ceramic nano-beads infused into the liquid). The scratch resistance is OUTSTANDING and the slip resistance is second to none (literally...it has the best slip resistance ratings on the market). And the odour is gone within 4-6 HOURS. Total cure is 5 days.

Your local wood flooring store/expert will be able to offer 'good' options for your renovation. Your location will have a micro-climate that makes certain species, certain widths and certain cuts MORE likely to work than others. A solid hardwood (3/4") site finished is still the Gold Standard. A local mill with a local flooring shop can get you what you need in a timely fashion. The local wood flooring store will KNOW your climate. They will KNOW what has failed in the past (because it almost cost them their business!) and they will ONLY carry products that keep their customers (and their business) happy. You can find traditional 3" red oak planks for relatively little money. The cut and the grade will increase the price...but the 3" plank is very safe in most settings. If you want White Oak then you will move up the price range by $1-$2/sf more expensive then the equivalent in Red Oak. Again, site finished means you can work with local shops and local mills. Which means the 'brand' doesn't matter. Which brings us to - your location. Without that, we can't help.

That wood work in your home is to die for! Honestly, often part of the charm of older homes is the "evolution" of different types of hardwoods over time - are you completely opposed to sanding the existing hardwoods down and refinishing in the same stain? The ones in your pictures look to be in great shape and definitely fit the feel and age of your home. Could save you a lot of money and headache and end up looking great - just a thought. Whatever you do, please avoid putting in wide plank engineered wood floors (that are everywhere right now) - vintage hardwoods are incredible elements in older homes. Newer wood floors can zap the charm right out of an older home IMO.