This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

More often then not, captured panels crack because of their inability to move rather than due to the actual movement itself. If a species panel is glued on all four edges to the door stiles and rails, when the large panel tries to contract as its environmental conditions change, the edges are held tight so the panel may crack along the grain. Do you know if the panels in your doors were glued or floating? Even if floating, poly or paint can seal a panel to the rail and restrict movement. So even with the best of intentions, Mother Nature can ruin our plans. For your door, What I'd do it finish the panels before the door is assembled, sealing the panels on all sides. Then assemble it with the panels floating. The other reason I prefer to finish the panels before assembly is so when the panel shrinks I can't see unfinished slivers of wood where the panel slots into the stiles and rails. With the large-sized panels required in a 2-panel shaker door, have you considered using species plywood for the flat panels? Plywood, being more stable than species lumber, will not move as much. A properly sized bathroom fan will prevent excessive humidity in the bath as well, reducing the uneven swings in humidity the door might face. Mongo

Thanks guys! This is the clawfoot tub I am considering: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/atq/5280827575.html. It is pretty - look at those legs! I would paint the outside a different color though. And if I went drop in, it would probably look a lot like the one in JLC's last picture -- in fact, that picture basically encompasses the whole look I am going for - wainscoting, the closed in shower, the little mosaic tile on the floor. So thanks for that picture! I'm still torn on the tub issue - JLC's post had convinced me that I want drop in (especially the part about it being easier to get in as you age) but amberm is swaying me back again with the prettiness factor. When I look at my inspiration pics, there's a pretty even split between drop-in and clawfoot. One other factor that I didn't mention is that we currently have a laundry chute built into the side of the tub deck -- in my original picture, you can see the hinges where it opens near the floor -- the front of the tub deck pulls open and I can toss laundry down into the laundry room. This is an awesome feature. If I go with a drop in, I will keep the chute where it is (well, it will move back a few inches with the rest of the deck but that will actually make it fall in a better spot in the laundry room so that is fine). But if I go with a clawfoot, I am either going to have to put a trap door in the floor or build some kind of cabinet...and since it would look odd to have either of those right in the middle of the room, I will have to move the whole laundry chute back under the center of the window, which drops the laundry in a less convenient but still workable spot in the laundry room. But then I have to figure out if I want a trap door in the floor or to build some kind of little cabinet or flip out wall thing to serve as the door to the laundry chute -- I'm a little nervous about just making a trap door because it seems dangerous if someone accidentally left it open. So if I went with a clawfoot, I would probably build some kind of cabinet that ran from the edge of the window back to the corner -- the full top of it could server as a ledge for plants and holding stuff you'd want while in the tub while the part that is exposed (not behind the tub) could open for the laundry chute. But this is seeming very complicated and hard to visualize vs. just replicating what we basically have now....and have I mentioned that I'm bad at visualizing?!? I guess it would look something like the way the ledge runs in JLC's Charleston Beach Cottage picture....but looking at that pic, I can't imagine how they are going to get back there to clean the floor under there and I'm worried about having the same problem. To address the counter space concerns, the vanity width is just shy of 80". The current plan is to have a neighbor custom-build my cabinets (that's what he does for a living), so I was going to go with 2 29" sink base cabinets and a 20" drawer unit in the middle. I am also planning a recessed shaker-style built-in medicine cabinet unit that should give me a ton of storage for the stuff that is currently sitting on the counter. So hopefully I wouldn't need a bunch of counter space. I envision it looking something like this: I want it to run the full width of the vanity area. I think I worked out the math and it should be doable and line up with the sinks if I use 20" doors and 4" spacers in between (6" on each end)....but here's where my issue with proportion comes in -- is that too much space? Who knows! Hopefully the cabinet guy has some kind of visualization software where he can dummy it up and I can see what it will look like. There is another window over the back of the tub that isn't visible in this picture so I'm not sure I could make a vanity over there....but I do think I should keep the tub. It is not our only tub but the other one is a regular small tub/shower combo in the kids' bathroom and it would be nice to have one that is a little nicer/bigger. Please keep the feedback coming...you all are bringing up things I haven't thought about before and I really appreciate it!

Marti, looking at your shower floor problem, when you put in a one-piece shower receptor floor you don't waterproof below it because there is no water getting under the shower floor. With the system I used, and with Swanstone and other solid surface wall systems, you don't even have to waterproof behind the walls. Things interlock at the bottom so that the wall is inside the lip of the shower, and the walls either interlock above or butt so that they have no water infiltration possible or they have a single caulk joint. (Often a cove molding covers the butt and then the cove is caulked, too.) So, if you use a receptor floor and solid sheet walls, no waterproofing is done. Second, the way you set a solid pan is into a bed of wet compound of some sort. Our pan said to use tile mortar. A contractor I saw years ago on Garden Web said, "We always go one step further and set our prefab pans in structolite, which not only provides added resistance to flexing, but also gives you the feel of stepping on a solid surface." MTI says of its roll-in shower floor, "Shower base is designed to be recessed into the floor to create a flat transfer surface. Add bedding compound to fully support bottom of shower base. MTI's optional Pre-Leveled Foam Base requires no additional bedding compound or support." So, there are ways of making a solid surface or even a fiberglass shower pan very sturdy and inflexible, and these are the right ways to install them. As for the foam base, Jim did our tiled bathroom floor as a sloped shower floor using a Kerdi shower floor product that was a kit of foam pieces that you put into place using tile adhesive, then covered with Kerdi membrane, then tiled over. So, my room floor is a shower, too. That is in case the shower over-flows. So foam can be made strong enough to be under the floor of a shower. The MTI company is out of Georgia, I believe, and is worker-owned. They seem pretty innovative. I have a PDF of a shower pan that they make to be sunken into the floor like you had planned, but not so deep. But like mine, it has the entire long edge open and will not accommodate your wall closing off half or more of the front side. These pans are made more for roll-in showers. The pan I am looking at is MTI's MTSB 6036BF. I don't know if it is still made, or if it is an old product. I have the PDF sheet for it that I saved some time ago. My shower pan is from Transolid and is 37.5 x 63. Transolid also makes a 36 x 60 pan with a center drain. http://transolid.com/transolid-F6036-01 Transolid 36 x 60 It also has the entire front open, though, no wall lip. One advantage that it does have for you is that it is 3" deep, so if you put leveling compound into your poured area - or if you centered the drain on this pan onto your drain, then scribed off where your pan ends, you could pour the half inch bottom and the approximately six inches of concrete you need on each side to make a recessed spot for this pan in your shower space. You still would have to have a glass shower wall and door though. Their new construction solid surface walls are pretty cool. Made with an aluminum mesh backing, they go up onto the studs, do not require drywall like a Swanstone sheet or a plain Transolid sheet requires. And they sell a dome kit with LED lights that finishes off the top nicely. Trouble is, this shower type is only 32" deep. To get the 36 x 60, you have to have the drywall. Here is the basic shower. Transolid 36 x 60 Shower This time, I linked you to the place that sells it. There you can see the prices. The white is least expensive. Carrara and Silver Mocha are most expensive. They have a wall extension for taking this model higher on the wall to the ceiling. Wall Extension, but you have to remind them it is for the ceiling and that you need corner trim at the top. If you have questions about how to use the base, call Transolid, at the first link. Again, since there is a straight front that looks meant for a curtain or glass, I doubt you can put a wall there. You can call and ask if that is do-able, though. Have you talked to Grifform.com? They make custom shower pans. Cost a pretty penny. But, when you add up the cost for redoing the shower size to accommodate a pan that won't fit it, it could be worth it. And a custom pan may be the only way you are going to get the 6 ft length that you want. They should be able to accommodate the off-center drain too. They are in far eastern Oregon, so maybe the shipping to you would not cost as much as it did for me. I think it was like $500. Custom pans can be "flimsier" than ones they already have a mold for, because the ribs and such are set and they are just changing some minor things on the semi-custom ones. That is what I was told somewhere. You might want to ask about that. Setting it into wet mortar might make that moot, anyways. I did not look at the MTI site or at Duravit to see if they make 6 ft long pans. You may want to do that. Their pans are only an inch or two high, if I recall correctly, so I did not think it was worth checking. I could be wrong though! There are the Kohler enameled cast iron shower pans to consider, too. Bellweather is one. They are all no more than 60 inches long, I believe. They all may have drains on the end, made to fit where a bathtub was removed. I hope that you find something here helpful!