The cuts should not penetrate all the way but should be shallower near the pool to allow water to be drained away to the edge of the deck. Cutting all the way will allow rain to penetrate under the deck. This can cause settlement of the underlying ground, which near a pool, is usually uncompacted fill with gravel. I like to see footers set here but many don't take this step. Five years down the road, the concrete deck can and does crack from the lack of support. The decks I've seen sealed were done using a roller near the pool and a sprayer after the first foot to 18" out. Near the pool, the roller is well soaked and the cuts get a little extra to soak down. The sprayer handles everything else. When anti-slip material is added, it's all roller . Sprayers usually clog. If the cuts do go all the way through, then polymetric sand would be a good way to keep the ants from marching but next to nothing to keep the moisture from penetrating. Scott

chickadee4, The foam is perforated near one edge, usually about a half inch depending on the width of the foam. It is easiest to use adhesive or silicone to keep the foam in place. Do not adhere above the perforation. After the pavers are in place you can remove the foam top and pour in the joint seal. Use tape along the back of the coping and pavers to make a clean edge. You can sprinkle a little sand on top of the joint seal to give it a little texture, but it is not recommended by the manufacturer. Forget about the reference to tar. Make sure joint is clean before applying seal. Deck-O-Seal a common product and easy to pour. Good luck.

We do not have travertine, but after seeing your picture, and with the information I gained while choosing materials for coping/decking, what you have should be fine. The problem, in my understanding, occurs if you do not have a separate coping and decking - in other words, one continuous piece of concrete, or whatever material you use. People who get the stamped concrete may have one solid piece in order to avoid a choppy look when you get to the coping, but the concrete should be sawcut to allow for expansion. Hope that makes sense and puts you at ease. What we have is like yours, only ours is a cast stone. Same method of laying it though.

If the original foam is deteriorating, I would remove it and replace with backer rod. The 3/4" is fine as you can work it into the joint for a tight fit. To make a consistent depth, sweep play sand into the joint. Use a jointing tool (narrow mason tool-about 1/2") to work in and create a solid base about a 1/2" deep. Then apply the Deck-O-Seal. You will use less material and prevent sags and have a consistent thickness. Be patient and careful when applying with the squeeze bottle. If you get drips on the coping or patio, it's difficult to remove.