We got the same type of quote for our kitchen. There is a $10K difference between custom and semi-custom. This was for an apples to apples comparison: same hinges, same thickness of plywood in bases, same number of drawers, same drawer slides. I think we'll go with the semi-custom. Stock cabinets come in sizes that are multiples of 3", 9", 12", 15"...60", etc. When your kitchen has an inch or two space, they have matching spacers that fill in those spaces and look like extensions on the cabinets. The factor I'm concerned about it the color of the stain. Most semi/custom stock will stain certain colors with or without glazes. If you want a certain stain color, they may not be as flexible as your custom cabinet guy. Another factor in durability is how long the shelf run is and how thick it is. Without good support, a long run will sag in the short term; a thinner shelf sags sooner. I will probably order a door from each before I make my decision. I ordered one door awhile back; when it got here, I realized the cherry wood the cabinet company was using wasn't top quality. A great installer with an eye for detail is what makes ordinary cabinets shine. My son just had a bottom of the line series installed. We had them put plywood in the bottom of the sink base instead of particle board. They look high end because they go to the ceiling, there is a nice crown molding up there, and he doesn't have low end knobs. They are just a builder grade cabinet with a dark stain over birch. They won't last as long, but he doesn't need them to. My builder cabinets I have now are 20yo and are just starting to show their wear. The funny thing is that my sister who is married to a contractor and have built their own houses with custom cabinets thought I had a custom job. No, I just had an installer who takes pride in his work, cabinets that went up to the ceiling, and plywood panels installed on unfinished sides. I guess my conclusion is that I'd go with the customized in-stock cabinets and save the $$$.

I'm certain those in the Boston area (beantown?) can recommend a good local custom cabinet maker. These can be competitive in price to any mid to high end manufacturer. I went with Crystal, which is made in Minnesota. In the price spectrum, it is considered mid-high. I am quite satisfied thus far, as I near completion.

We used cliqstudios cabinets in 3 projects in our last house. 2 were stained wood, 1 was the painted wood (linen). The painted cabinets withstood 2 children coloring on them with non washable crayons, colored pencil, 3 cats who loved to rub their faces on the corners and a very VERY busy work area. After pricing the cliqstudios cabinets, the same kitchen in IKEA, and KountryWood Products (available through a local dealer), we've decided to go with cliqstudios again. The prices were exactly the same, IKEA doesn't come with plywood sides, they were only available as an upgrade on the KWP's and they come standard on the cliqstudios cabinets. Plus, I don't have to build the cliqstudios cabinets. As for the finished - my parents went with a VERY high end custom cabinetry company (apologies, I don't remember the name) - white painted inset shaker style - the finish on their cabinets started looking like crap within 5 years. Places where the cabinet finish has chipped, or flaked off, discoloration, etc.

Drywall screws and cabinet screws have two very different heads on them. Drywall screws need to counter sink cabinet screws don't. One clamps the wood one needs to penetrate the wood the size of the head before it bears any load. This of course weakens the wood and mounting. Home Depot sells GRK screws in the proper cabinet installation head. Simply back them out and install the correct ones. Cabinets should be installed with a French Cleat system with makes the install that much easier and neater. It is important to also be sure the screw hole is larger then the actual screw. What can happen otherwise is you are putting the stress in the wrong area. Go get all your plates and glass you will install in one cabinet put them in a box and weigh them. Then you will understand why using a sheetrock screw which has just about zero shear strength should not be used. Tell him to place his kids head under there while you test it. Ridiculous, cost is probably $2 in difference.