antss-I certainly appreciate what you are saying but I was looking for opinions from what I know are very knowledgable people on this forum. I can take all the comments and then make my own educated decision. By the way, are there any appliance specialists out there?? In my recent experiences at the local appliance stores, I know more than the sales people--it is very frustrating to get entirely different answers to the same questions. I did call both Diva and Thermador. Diva said that I could definitely place the warming drawer in the middle of the cabinet base. Thermador's exact words "You can put a warming drawer anywhere you want." Didn't exactly inspire a lot of confidence! pecanpie-thanks for your feedback. I want to place my drawer in the same place you have yours Can I ask what brand of induction you have? I am going with the Diva which is only about 4" deep so I think having the top drawer for ventilation will be fine.

I would skip the cabinet. It would be small and awkward inside and why pay for that? Spend the money on a good hood of that is more than 20" on the depth. These are powerful enough and designed to be installed at the 30" height you are wanting. Type into the search engine here, vent hoods or range hoods, and you will find lots of possibilities. One of the ones that we saw that might work for you is a Thermador product that is pretty strong, is about 18" in depth but has a slideout that brings the total depth of the vent hood to be about 24". There are lots of powerful ones that are pretty quiet. We are strongly considering one from Futuro Futuro ourselves. Good Luck!

building2017 wrote: ... - What are the silencers I have read about and how do they work/would they work here? These are like giant truck mufflers, except designed for various diameter ducts. They have low pressure loss (forget the value but it is a lot less than baffles). Fantech is the source. - Any benefit re:sound to using two smaller liners instead of one big one and only using one at a time when using only one side of stove? Or is this magnifying the cost for no good reason other than sound? (Because I'm assuming I'd then have two runs up and out and two things on the roof because they wouldn't combine to avoid a turn and to ensure proper function? If only one side were run at a time, then MUA costs could be lower, but where code requires MUA, I am willing to bet a donut that the AHJ will demand an MUA system that can handle both at once. In theory, the sound reduction will be only 3 dB less. Also, when using the central burners, you will still need both systems for capture and containment. Well, I guess three things on the roof then with the MUA. While commercial systems mostly use roof MUA entry, and I use roof MUA entry, the options for residences are wide open and may include side of house entry, or entry into a basement that has an air path access to the kitchen.

They could have inserted a vent elbow similar to this one to get the air flow turned 90 degrees. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-1-4-in-x-10-in-Short-Way-90-Degree-Rectangular-Elbow-90E3-25X10/100138324  Then extend it with standard 3 1/4"x10" ducting out to the toe kick, and install a grill. I would hesitate to completely remove the cabinet itself just to punish the contractor with reworking a bad job. It will disturb the countertop, backsplash and other things that are already installed to your satisfaction. I have a hydronic toe-kick heater, and we cut out a large square area in the bottom of the sink cabinet, using a jig saw. We then screwed small metal support plates under each corner of the opening so that the cut out section rests on the plates when you put it back in. It is not readily visible when you drop the cutout section back in, and in my case it gives me access to both the pex hydronic lines and the motor for the booster fan that is part of the heater. Bruce