Tigerdunes, Thank you for your reply. Please see the requested info below: Thermostat (2): TCONT803A532DA XR15: 4TTR5036 (Coil will be 4TXCC or 4TCB) XL13c or XB13 recommended by contract based on size of floor plan and cost. Stated that XL14 would be $800 more, but didn't think we needed it. No air-filter cabinet (we have air filters in the 5 air-returns throughout the house right now). Includes old lines (flushed and sized) Total cost came in at $11,200 and includes an extra air return for the upstairs bonus room (right now it doesn't have one and we have hear/cold issues based on season). Cost estimates also includes moving the outside unit over to the gaspack unit. Basically we are moving it away from backyard patio.

The inspector said it was OK. He didn't look in the new subpanel, AND therefore didn't notice that the ground and neutral bar were connected in it. He told me he didn't look in it (afterwards over the phone) and told me that he knows the company that did it (he's good friends with the owner), and he trusts that they must have done it right. Regarding the junction box, he said don't worry about it. (Never mind the codes).

The indoor and outdoor temperatures will affect the load calculation. The numbers I quoted are the industry standard, but they can be changed to something else. A change of one or two degrees up or down are not going to make a big difference. So if they use 68 degrees in the winter, and you like it to be 70, then the furnace or heat pump will have to produce more heat to raise the house those 2 degrees. It should not matter unless the amount of heat the equipment produced was very close to the calculation. For the summer if they used 75, and you like 74, then the house will need a little more cooling than calculated. Again I would not worry about it because the cooling load is increased by a lot for sensible and latent cooling. You really want to understand what's going on with the insulation. You pay a premium for spray foam so you want your money's worth. A good strategy for a big house is to spend extra money on upgrading insulation values so that the energy bills will be lower. You want to confirm this is being done correctly. Otherwise you will have had made the extra investment will little return. There is no excuse not to do the calculations as accurate as possible. Changing the orientation is very easy. If he complains about that then you I foresee you are going to have bigger problems later.

Brave person, you are prepared to walk 12 minutes to the bus stop in Winnipeg in winter, when you have other options? :) Oh, and train tracks. Not ideal. I also think there are few things you will regret more than stretching your budget for a house. If you can see 40-50k upkeep, the actual number is bound to be higher in something so underpriced for the neighborhood. Number 2 sounds like the best option, and it looks good from what I see. It's possible to update it however you like, and you have the advantage of doing that slowly to avoid financial strain. However, it's clearly the one you like the least, so I suggest you shelve all these options and wait for something both of you like and agree on. Unless there is some reason to hurry? Spring/summer usually sees a lot more houses available for sale.