I agree with Bry and most of the pros on here. Here’s my thoughts. BM Aura is NOT a cabinet-grade paint. This is just a fact. It’s a fully water-based, thin paint. It’s meant for drywall. Our company does over a mil a year, and I study the chemical science behind this stuff and study these products 24-7. I would suggest alternatives to a client, and if they insisted on BM Aura I’d literally walk away from the job rather than use this product because the danger of taking that job would be very high (the product won’t last, will scratch easily, and client will be unhappy). BM Advance is an ok product, but the long cure time and lack of durability compared to other similarly priced products makes it not worth it, IMO. TL/DR = There’s better options but this is still decent. Way better than BM Aura. The BEST “reasonably priced and readily available” product for cabinets is SW Emerald Urethane Enamel. It’s much better than the BM Advance in terms of A) durability and abrasion resistance, B) cure/dry time, C) chemical and mar resistance. Some prefer the look of either but they both look great but SW Emerald Urethane is way more durable long term and IMO at least I love the fact Emerald Urethane is brighter and dries harder. It looks a lot better to me. Advance looks/feels kinda soft and subdued. https://youtu.be/-TVrtJwLqgA Milesi, Fine Paints of Europe, and Renner have the “best overall” products but they’re way more expensive and harder to purchase. Milesi and Renner especially, often need to be shipped in. FPE is usually in our local stores. They’re all expensive though. Milesi also requires a 2-step process which is more complicated, so we need our project manager to oversee it. Milesi comes out super smooth and glassy, FPE Hollandlac comes out in a brilliant lacquer finish which some people want. My general thoughts, weighing all the pros and cons, is to either go with Emerald Urethane, OR, pick one of the very expensive European brands that meets your exact desire in a paint and go with them. But don’t do BM Aura on cabinets. Seriously. Don’t do that. That’s Magoo

Just my 2 cents... It is a sin to paint those cabinets, but between those two products the Hi-bild precat is the clear winner. However, Hi-bild is a nitrocellulose lacquer and will yellow over time. So your alabaster will eventually get distinctly more yellow. I would talk to your painter about using Sher Wood CAB lacquer if you want to keep that alabaster color. I personally prefer their waterborne finish which is Sher Wood Kem Aqua plus. It is slightly more durable, will not yellow, sprays on easy, is much less toxic and doesn't blow you up. However, I am not sure you can get that deep black with it, you will have to ask. Please remember that lacquer goes boom so be sure you turn off any ignition source like pilot lights and make sure you have a lot of ventilation. ---- There are a few other strong products like 2 part polys but if your painter is familiar with lacquer and wants to use SW I would stick with one of the recommendations above.

@Chelsea Ivers I have only done door panels on sides of boxes, and they turned out reasonably well, but I am still having problems perfecting my finishing method. The doors and drawer fronts will be the next things I tackle. My latest issue is pock marks, otherwise known as fisheyes, that I think are appearing due to excessive humidity. I have created an enclosed painting booth that tends to trap vapor as it evaporates from the coating, and during a rainy week here where I live, I could not control the pock marks appearing in all layers of Loba 2K Supra AT even with opening a couple of windows that adjoin the booth. The WS EasyPrime did not have this issue, but again, that was the first layer, and successive coats in the 4-coat system released more humidity into the air. Other things can cause fisheyes like excessively thick coats or improper temperatures of the air and substrates, but I believe in my case it is humidity and will be trying to address this going forward with a robust dehumidifier inside the painting booth. I would be happy to personally speak to you about the process, but it would really be better if you started your own thread and posted questions there so that everyone searching for Loba application information in the future could benefit. Alternately, I just switched my settings over to allow you to be able to message me privately, but if I don't hear from you, I'll be switching that back off by the end of January 2021. You should be nervous, actually! This is a terrible coating to apply on cabinetry, and I highly encourage you to select a different finish! I'm in the middle of a project so already committed, but many times during the 16 coats I have already done with 6 to 8 hours of prep for each coat (with the exception of the hot coat of Supra 1 hour after primer) and at least half of the work left to go for a small kitchen, I have regretted ever signing up for this monumental task. If you haven't read my other thread on Loba for cabinetry and followed the links within the posts there, it would be of benefit to you: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5927222/loba-2k-supra-a-t-coating-questions#n=26 If you haven't yet purchased your Loba products, please visit the Envirolak website and check out their clear coat finishes. Envirolak would be much more suited to a cabinetry application. Envirolak is based in Canada and is gaining a solid reputation for robust, one-part waterborne coatings, including clear coats, that are created to be brushed and rolled on. If you don't have a dealer near you, you may contact Envirolak directly, and they'll be able to work with you to get their products. This would be the next-best thing in durability to a catalyzed 2K (two-part) finish such as the Loba 2K Supra A.T. Another alternative would be General Finishes. They do some beautiful one-part waterborne clear coats that are probably not as resilient as Envirolak's but are easy to apply with brush and roller, and many people who have posted in the Houzz forum have used General Finishes to satisfactorily coat their cabinetry projects. Here is one thread with more information about that: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5633128/most-natural-matte-satin-finish-white-oak-cabinets#n=33 One of the first problems you will encounter with Loba 2K Supra A.T., or indeed any of Loba's 2K coatings, is that they begin to set up at lightning speed. You must lay the coating down and walk off and leave it within no more than 10 minutes per piece, and really more like 3 minutes per each section of each piece. The learning curve is steep, and I'm still having problems getting my coating to lay down without brush marks as the quick drying occurs. Another problem you will encounter with Loba's products is that they are formulated with no vertical hang properties. All the leveling properties are horizontally self-leveling. So, any time you have something other than a perfectly flat surface, the Loba coating will drip, run, or puddle. I have created a complex system of taping off low-lying areas, then wiping the puddles with a microfiber cloth, then removing the tape with care not to drip onto finished sections, then painting the previously taped areas, then sponging off more puddles, then wiping out more puddles with craft swabs. This all happens within seconds as I move quickly with no wasted motion as the coating is already flash drying in surrounding areas. The process is difficult, stressful, and not entirely successful as I have many surface blemishes throughout the project thus far. I have had to coat each plane separately using several rounds of Frog Tape with plastic draping to mask off non-working sides. Please, if you have any other options, go with the other options. The best thing would be to order prefinished cabinetry or to have a professional spray the project with Milesi or Renner. You may learn more about professional spraying options at this group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/diycabinetrefinishing The Loba 2K Supra A.T. with a 4-coat system including WS EasyPrime primer as the first coat is basically impervious. You'll never be able to refinish your cabinetry pieces unless they are flat surfaces that can be mechanically sanded. It's that tough. You may even have a hard time hand sanding between layers prior to full cure due to the incredible resilience. It's like dipping everything in plastic. The finish is beautiful, but I think in most cases that the durability is overkill for cabinetry. Loba's 2K products are designed to last 20 years on a flooring surface that you walk on during those decades. The Envirolak or General Finishes one-part waterborne products should give you plenty of years of wear without the headache of dealing with 2K application concerns. I hope this is helpful to you. If you would like to start a new thread with your own project and photos, please be sure to link it back here so we can follow and comment on your new thread.

Thank you for asking. Unfortunately, we have put our kitchen reno on hold. We were advised to wait until the economy rebounds. But, my husband and I are closer in agreement. We have decided to go with a mix of white and light wood for the cabinets. I have found some great inspirational pictures. I still love the white oak but maybe with less wood cabinets maple will be ok. I checked Durasupreme and they have white oak but not in the shade we like. Also, Durasupreme got less than good reviews online. Plato has the white oak shade we like - nude cream - but the estimate came in really high. I still hope to get my dream kitchen.