I haven't had much time at the computer lately, and I missed this until now. Sorry. Thanks, LindaC, for answering in my stead, especially since I didn't know the answer! Loves2cook4six, I got the recipe from my King Arthur Flour Baking Companion, and their recipe for white bread calls for potato flakes, so that's what I copied down, and what I've done when I've made this recipe. (I'm only now getting to where I feel brave enough to experiment with changing bread recipes) There are others here that are much more expert on bread making than I am, but I can't imagine why you couldn't just use a different bread recipe, and just form the monkey bread as it's described, as Lowspark pointed out. I think a fairly light textured bread is called for, and I suspect the potato flakes might have something to do with helping the bread to keep a light texture. However, I don't really remember what the potato flakes do for the bread, other than they are a sugar source. I wish I could answer your question more clearly. Sally

Elkay sinks tend to have more of a grainy or grooved looking finish to them. Have you logged onto their web site? I believe they actually list a description of their finishes. Most decorative plumbing showrooms have Elkay on display. Call around so you can actually see in person. Now as for matching your faucet to your sink or to the rest of the kitchen, I would match the faucet with your accessories (cabinet hardware). It's a much richer look if your faucet, soap dispenser, air gap and whatever sink top items you have will blend in with the rest of the kitchen. Do you have stainless appliances as well? Carleen

They have all kinds but the models typically used on pools are the pilot tube models. F-30150P is an example. F stands for horizontal mount, 30 is for the 300 series, 150 is the pipe size of 1.5 and p is pvc plumbing. It goes on for 2.0 pvc which is F-30200P and F-30250P for 2.5. The 1.5 pvc scale is 20 to 100 gpm The 2.0 pvc scale is 40 to 150 gpm The 2.5 pvc scale is 60 to 240 gpm Don't mean to write an entire book on flowmeters but I've had 25+ years in commercial service and have stared at them everyday. This is a very reliable model. They are rated for direct sunlight but after time, the red plug on top will rot or drip. It is simply sealed with a bit of teflon tape but if the plug is dried out, it will break. It's always good to order an extra plug or two in that situation. It's not an immediate thing, it may happen once in a year or two in direct sun. As previously stated, you can't say I want this particular scale. The scale is based on the pipe capacity. A 1.5 pipe will not flow in the range of a 2.0 flowmeter. Each model is calibrated for the pipe size AND, the curvature of the meter is based on the pipe size. It is useless to mount a meter on a pipe it is not designed for and they run about $100.00 Installation is easy but you need to be very careful not to over drill the hole and the two clamps secure it better if you put them opposite of each other. The flowmeter says right on it what it is for and it has a flow direction arrow. A 2.0 pvc meter says 2.0 ips. A 2.0 copper meter says 2.0 tubing.

There is a great danger in trying to approach home design and construction in the same terms as your previous experience as a consumer. You can't buy materials for the same price as a contractor and if you insist on supplying all finishes the contractors will probably raise their installation prices to cover the lost markup and the additional trouble of dealing with your inevitable delays and mistakes. Also, using an architect just for the basic design drawings is a poor choice since he/she is likely to be the only available independent guide through the pitfalls of the project. After all, that is his/her profession. The only certain way to save money on a house is to make it more efficient and eliminate unnecessary features. Unless you are highly experienced in these matters I suggest you provide the owner information and let the pros design and build the house with you observing closely. It is interesting that you mention Pella and Kohler. Those are the only two manufacturers that I tell my clients to avoid. I would suggest that any product heavily advertised to the public and sold by Home Depot, Lowes, etc. should be used with extreme caution regardless of the model numbers. The model numbers might or might not matter but the factory quality control does and there are other code numbers that denote a different factory that might serve only the big retail stores. Manufacturers believe the public buys because of advertising and appearance rather than proven quality and I agree. If you buy a toilet from Home Depot put it on a hard flat surface to see if it was miscast and look at the flapper to see if it is malformed or dmaged. I would say you have a 50% chance of getting a good one from Kohler and a 90% chance that the cheap plastic flow valve will fail in the first year (Kohler uses FluidMaster valves which jam so often that there are instruction on their website for clearing them - have someone ready to shut off the water in case you drop the cup). The water you pay for from stuck valves can quickly exceed the cost of a better grade of toilet - this is not the place to save a hundred bucks if you are on town water. Obviously, it doesn't matter how good a product looks or how low the price, if it doesn't work properly it becomes a liability. And if you provided it, you will be removing it and taking it back for replacement or repair. Being able to call the contractor about bad fixtures or window leaks is worth something unless you are good at diagnosing and fixing such things and have the time to do it. I usually don't make pitches for architectural services because it inflames some die hard DIY'ers but I have rarely designed a house where I didn't reduce the owner's cost by more than my fee (sometimes just in the bidding/negotiating phase) and the avoidance of pain and family strife comes for free. Good luck with your project.