Massive volunteer tomato bush - save seeds?
jacqueline9CA
2 months ago
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Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
2 months agodaninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoRelated Discussions
Saving tomato seeds
Comments (12)We had Heinz contracted fields close to here. They let people glean after the harvest. An old city truck farmer, may he rest in peace, got some, picked some for seeds and started growing them. They were great. My MIL got some and canned them. I don't know how to save seeds, thought you waited until before frost but guess not. Marigolds are intuitive, and I saved bunches of those, if I have any left, they're pretty old. My rudbeckias died early from drought, do you think the seeds will be any good from them? They were really varied and colorful this year. How about my crazy daisies that died a little sooner, would the seeds still be good, assuming I can tell what's what? I think I wait until the phlox seed pods turn brown are just about ready to pop. Echinacea, ugh. I don't know where they came from, the same old pink ones and yellow harvest moon I don't like much. They self seed easily. I have baby tulip trees all over the yard from my neighbor's tree, hate to kill them. Potted one up and will sink it in the ground for winter. Really nice, big, tidy trees with distinctive leaves. The seeds are too high to reach. If he'd let me have some, I might be able to use my apple picker. They have to be easy to grow if you winter sow them. What about Becky Shasta? I noticed a small clump that has obviously self seeded. Alyssum grow and shed like a ladder so I guess those you have to collect as they grow. Mine are all gone, and they were so pretty. Maybe one yet will spring up. They spread better than a lot of varieties and the flowers were dense, also did well in part shade and withstood drought well. But something happened, and none came back, think bigger, stronger self seeders took their space....See Moresaving tomato seeds
Comments (58)Martin, From a strictly technical viewpoint, the aerobic reaction is an oxidation reduction. Oxidation because the sugar is combined with oxygen, reduction because the sugar is reduced to carbon dioxide and water. From this perspective, it is not accurate to refer to the process as "fermentation". Still, given that there are lots of webpages that refer to "aerobic fermentation", there is an argument of common use that can be made. We also know that alcohol is produced and that the only possible way for that to happen is if part of the process is anaerobic. We also know that the liquid is more acid after 5 days of fermenting than it was at the start. The only way for it to increase acidity is through anaerobic fermentation. Please note that I am neither attacking you nor defending Carolyn. My only purpose is to try to get to the truth of this question. I don't care whether the process is aerobic or anaerobic or some combination of the two. I have no axe to grind nor cud to chew. I do care that the process works and that it is fairly easy to do. Yeast does not "break down H2O" Breaking H2O into its components requires a huge energy input. It normally occurs only in chlorophyll containing plants that use the suns energy as a pump to cause that separation. You can do a search for photosynthesis and chlorophyll if you want to see the mechanisms that make this possible. Since yeast does not normally contain chlorophyll, and since yeast is extracting energy, it does not separate water into its components. Re flipflopping, I make it a point to change my opinion promptly and completely when evidence is presented to indicate that I am on the wrong path. I have not flipflopped at all since doing some real research about the process of fermenting tomato seed. Clear evidence including a few references has been presented that many statements you have made are incorrect. Have you changed your position as a result? If not, why? The oxygen barrier in an open fermenter used in producing beer is a layer of carbon dioxide that accumulates above the fermenting vat. A lid is placed over the open fermenter which tends to trap the CO2 that is produced by the yeast. So long as that CO2 layer is minimally disturbed, a very effective oxygen barrier is produced which causes the beer fermentation to be anaerobic. All of the information I have at this point indicates that tomato seed fermenting is composed of an early aerobic process followed by an anaerobic stage. Most important to me is that BOTH stages are required to achieve the desired end result. It doesn't stop there though. There appears to be a bacterial stage after the yeast has run out of sugars to digest. The bacterial stage is the point at which the acidity increases and is the point at which pathogens are probably eliminated from the seed. Fusion...See MoreHow ripe should a tomato be to save its seeds?
Comments (15)Bill, Boy, my sucker is smaller than yours, but it's coming along: Rooting Rutgers The original that I took the sucker from is the plant on the left: My homemade Earthbuckets are doing their second year of duty, and I plant veggies in them that I want right by the kitchen door. determinate tomatoes, a couple of pepper plants, lettuce, and bush cukes. My entire deck is lined with them! That hole in the bucket is a perforated aeration tube (covered with a piece of nylon curtain!) that goes through the soil chamber, just above the wick. I don't think I'll construct the next ones this way but rather will drill several aeration holes just at the overflow hole level and let the aeration occur from the area between the water and the bottom of the soil chamber, see if that works as well. Nevertheless, these have worked just fine....See MoreGrowing two tomato varieties and still saving seed?
Comments (23)How odd that it's not possible for cross-pollination to be the problem here! I started all my plants from my own saved seeds that year and didn't buy any other tomato plants or seeds. I'm not saying that tomato plants can't or don't cross-pollinate although the % of crossing is quite low. So low that the vast majority of seed savers don't concern themselves with it. So low that the odds of the fruit even developing and then you selecting the few tomatoes that may have crossed and developed for your seed saving is practically nil. But even if two varieties do cross-pollinate and you do happen to save those exact seeds you still will not see variety A growing on variety B plants. You will only see some of the dominant genetic characteristics. Red is dominant to yellow so a normally red fruit will not revert to yellow, smooth skin is dominant to fuzzy skin, etc. see link below. So what happened? No way to know without seeing the plants at least and without a great deal more info about this tomato called Rose. Unfortunately none seems to be available on any of the standard tomato bases. There are no cherry tomato varieties named Rose' listed anywhere on any reputable tomatobase so presumably it is a name someone somewhere just made up and there is no telling what it might actually be. But by far the most likely causes are either a) seed mix-ups where a seed from one variety gets accidentally mixed in with another variety (fairly common occurrence even commercially) , b) a variety reverts to one of its parental line, or c) a volunteer plant sprouts. In your case where what should have been a red cherry tomato grew peachy-yellow fuzzy tomatoes the most likely explanation is a) above. Otherwise b) above is a possibility with the Rose but no way to know without knowing its parental lines. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Genetic Inheritance in Tomatoes...See Moreraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
2 months agojacqueline9CA
2 months agoMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
2 months agoerasmus_gw
2 months agodaninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoerasmus_gw
2 months agojacqueline9CA
2 months agoSherry
2 months agodaninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoSherry
2 months agoraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
2 months agodaninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoHighColdDesert
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