i think y9ou have a gnome infestation ... and that can be very problematic ..

im in mi also.. you brought these in when ...30 to 45 days ago ... i highly doubt they would be showing etoliation in that time frame in fall.. it really isnt vigorous growth time in the northern hemisphere ... and personally.. i dont really see it .. but then flora may be more learned with these plants than i am ...

frankly;.. i dont see anything wrong with your plants ... in these pix..

how far are they from the window??.. were they thriving before you took them outside in summer??

it should not be surprising.. that upon moving them all into the house. there isnt some kind of minor stress or shock involved ... but again.. i still dont see it ...

ken

Not enough light as floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK said (ligt color, recurving of the leaves...it takes short time to be deprived of light), & possibly too much water. It could be that your potting mix is too organic & retains too much water for too long. I don't see any infestation in the photos - except for the gnomes, lol...I would also add that Sempervivums are very hardy & could be overwintered outside or some cool space, like unheated garage...& you have community pot with not so compatible plants: snake plant doesn't need as much light as echeverias; hardy succulents should be overwintered outside...

If all of the plants are getting the same exposure anyway, there's no reason to not pot them together. Agree they are stretched from the reduced light of coming inside. It happens so fast on some of them, especially Echeverias. Do you have a spot right next to an unobstructed E/S/W window?

...excellent window or grow light...

As others have said, they need more/stronger light. If you can't provide that, then, at the very least, cut way back on watering. Mine will get little to no water from now until next spring. Mine do not receive any supplemental lighting for the winter. By subjecting them to an enforced "drought" they will stop growing. My echies will look a bit stressed (dropped and shriveled leaves) by spring, but they bounce back fast and I don't have to worry about etiolation.

Thank you all so much so basically let them go dormat till spring

My experience has not matched that. The succulents I have let dry out died like a leafy plant would.

Julie, yours aren't looking terrible except the little patch of something with tiny foliage. It wouldn't take much more light to keep them from getting overly stretched. The center of most of them looks OK, so it may just be the older leaves that were used to so much more light that are going to be majorly affected. The new growth could look just fine.

The struggle for all of us who have to bring plants inside for winter is real. Some plants are more annoyed than others. I've been focusing more on those that bloom while inside for winter. I can get more enjoyment out of those since I only run by the summer blooms as quickly as possible, vision blurred from having sweat in my eyes.

If any of these don't work out as permanent plants, there are plenty of others to try. Permanent plants does not mean the same thing for most succulents as it does for a traditional leafy houseplant like peace lily or dumbcane. There are some things, like a 'Fang' Kalanchoe that look the same all year, but the little rosettes are most widely appreciated as short, stemless rosettes. Some succulents don't age well, or as hoped, and what most people prefer is a just-trimmed-and-re-rooted look anyway. A rosette with no stem. So stressing about keeping the roots perfectly healthy, or a little winter stretching, doesn't preclude the "sweet spot" moments when a plant looks great for a while, then gets "too tall" or a little winter stretched and the cycle repeats.

When putting back out in the spring, it can take a month of gradual acclimation to avoid sunburn.

So I put a day light bulb in is that enough or does it need uv light?

We don't have any way to measure that. You'll know by looking @ the plants. Too little light = plants are stretched, leaves pointing down @ the tips, generally. Enough light = plants look normal, many more leaves pointing up.

yes, a bulb should do. Use a lamp shade or a bulb that puts out light in one direction to get maximum effect.

Tiffany, what flowering plants are you growing this winter? I bring in all flowering "annuals" indoors and put them in the sunniest windows and give them some supplemental light in the evenings. Quite a few become perennial and saves me the effort to start over from seeds, plus keeps winter blues at bay. Right now I have straw flowers, stocks, petunias, purslane, dipladenia and nicotiana in bloom besides the obligatory mums. I have dwarf hollyhocks and a shrub rose in bloom outdoors on the balcony in a plastic green house and am debating whether to bring them indoors for enjoyment or leave them outdoors for their good health. :)Thanksgiving cactii and jasmine polyanthus are starting to show buds, so are my phals and Vanda orchids but it will be a while before they bloom.

So I was always taught that if my plant was outside in day eat light I should keep it in easy facing light I could move these to west light but thought that might make them OK with the east light again in summer

Julie Spear

They need more light...regardless is you kept them in east (may have not been enough) or west light. Succulents are high light plants except few, & winter days are short & mostly dark. Typical recomendation is minimum 6hrs of good light, more is better. You can get away with less if they are kept dormant - low temps & little water. It is more difficult to achieve in typical house that is warm.

Almost any plant coming inside for the short days and weak rays of winter at a temperate latitude will appreciate being as close to the most sunny possible window, with a very few exceptions of some leafy tropical jungle floor dwellers. I've done as much as possible to increase the exposure, including using foil wherever practical.

Getgoing, my current blooms:

Dendrobium orchid

wax Begonias

Callisia elegans

Portulaca umbraticola (ornamental purslane)

Hoya

Plectranthus argentatus & verticillata

Impatiens walleriana

Streptocarpella

parlor palm (which aren't visually interesting, I just like to know the trees are healthy)

Coleus

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata)

Cyclamen 'Tianis White'

string of dolphins (Curio)

crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii)

furry kittens (Tradescantia sillamontana) - is about finished

still seeing some sporadic purple heart (T. pallida) blooms

Aloe bellatulla

tropical milkweed (Ascleipas curassavica)

morning glory tree (Ipomoea carnea)

firecracker (Russelia equisetiformis)

Forming inflorescences but not yet blooming:

Phal orchids

flaming Katy (Kalanchoes blossfeldiana, and other species)

Expected soon

Sedeverias

Graptosedum

Callisia fragrans

string of pickles (Crassothonna capensis)