Leave as is, I think it's fine! I have watched black roots begin to sprout new green roots when the plant gets settled into its new pot. I think it will be just fine now that it's in breathable bark. I do mist my aerial roots daily ... I figure it can't hurt, right? This way if I ever wait too long between waterings/soakings, I know it's at least gotten some moisture from the mistings, and won't get too shocked.

See, my problem with a "loose" mix is that i feel it needs more attention. Where a heavier mix can be aloud to dry out. I worry about having to constantly water when they are outside in spring and summer and it is very hot. The mix it is in now is about 1 part perlite to 3 parts miracle grow. The pachyclada i got from gardinos is in a loose mix and it also has clay balls. I will probably keep that one inside at all times. I just have to be careful in the winter timewith watering in a heavier mix. And it is definitely top heavy for that small solo cup.

PICTURES OF MY ROOTING ON JAN 30, INDOOR ZONE 5A, 2 1/2 months of rooting: Zippered bed-sheet pouches won over pop-bottle: more sunlight. Below is a very wimpy rooting with a LARGE pop-bottle on top: What I learned from my 1st-time rooting indoor, in zone 5a: Cheryl Netter, the originator of "baggie method" lives in a SUNNY zone 5a Colorado, with 247 to 285 days of sunshine versus my Chicagoland with 191 sunny days (mostly partial sun). My mother-in-law lives in Colorado Springs, and at high altitude, the sun is much more intense. Sun is needed to zap mold. STABLE environment is the key to success rooting. When I squirted water on the cuttings, it drop leaves immediately. Cuttings drop leaves with excessive moisture. I should had used my alkaline tap water (pH 9) plus hydrogen peroxide to prevent mold & black canker. I used rain water, which is perfect pH for mold to grow. The addition of my magnesium-rich clay on top helped with photosynthesis in the weak-sun indoor-zone 5a. After I topped with magnesium, leaves became darker green. After 2 1/2 months, baggie via zippered-bed-sheets WON over pop-bottle. Baggie has a larger area of soil for evaporation of moisture. Plus Baggie allows more sun & air to prevent mold. All my rootings under pop-bottle failed. They sprout green leaves, but the minute I take the pop-bottle off, leaves drop. My sister in WARM California had the same experience. One site said to take the pop-bottle off EVERY NIGHT, which makes sense since there's zero light at night, thus encourage mold & black canker. But it's a nuisance to take pop-bottle off everynight. Pouring water down the stem of cuttings is THE BEST WAY TO KILL THEM. Cuttings rot easily if the medium is acidic & wet.

Phosphorus and potassium are both very helpful for roots (both according to what I've read and what I've experienced with potassium—and according to what I've read with phosphorus, but I imagine it's true). Too much nitrogen can be bad for roots, as can too much water, too little ventilation, diseased soil, etc. When I started plants indoors, I used to give them potassium sulfate, and they would get awesome roots pretty fast. I also did this for cuttings rooted in soil, and for transplants, and it was helpful. I didn't experiment with phosphorus much until I stopped starting seeds indoors. I'm not saying that potassium and phosphorus do what hormone rooting powder is supposed to do, but at least potassium is still helpful for cuttings rooted in soil (it helps them to absorb more water and be less prone to shock—and at least by the time they do root, it helps the roots). I found it to be extremely helpful (both for seedlings and cuttings, but avoid soils with big chunks of partially composted wood chips). I took loads of cuttings in early 2015 with a very high success rate (e.g. tomatoes, watermelon, muskmelons, cucumbers, peppers, tomatillos, etc.) If you give cuttings bright light too soon after you take the cutting, it can stunt and/or wither and/or kill them. Give them at least a day or two of dimmer light. I did pretty large cuttings every time, though (between 3 and 16 inches). Maybe the reason people tend to use younger shoots is to avoid the light issue—but you can definitely take longer cuttings involving older growth. I'd usually take maybe an 8-inch tomato branch, put it in a cup with Nature's Brand seedling mix (with basalt rockdust and some kind of maybe natural 10-10-10 fertilizer added—it was a safe kind for seed-starting and taking cuttings), plant the stem near to the bottom of a 20oz foam cup, and water with water that has a good dose of potassium sulfate in it. Then I'd keep it out of bright light for a couple days, and then put it in bright fluorescent light, or a south window. They generally took a few days (~4 to 8) to root and start growing (for tomatoes; some other things took longer). You don't need hormone rooting powder for the plants I rooted (although you might for some species). If you believe in rooting things in water, it takes some faith to try rooting in soil, but it really is easier (especially in the long run). It's way faster, too. You can have a nice plant in no-time. Just be careful about damping off—you really need to avoid that (it afflicts both cuttings and seedlings). Fresh soil, clean containers, plenty of light (especially 2700k fluorescent light, for some unknown reason, and brighter south window sunlight), ventilation, and a high soil line can help to avoid damping off disease. I'd do a few things differently if I were to take cuttings now (I'd probably experiment with using wood ash instead of basalt rockdust and potassium sulfate, and I'd do some judicious pruning of the old leaves before transplanting the rooted cuttings to the garden; I wouldn't add 10-10-10 fertilizer, because I think it caused more mold or something, although the plants did enjoy it). I would add a small fan to my growing area, and maybe use heat mats where helpful (while keeping the air cooler than I had it). I'd probably give more attention to fewer plants, instead of packing loads of them in close proximity. I'd probably use smaller foam cups (and not start my plants so early). The wood ash could help pests/diseases not be as much of a problem. I used the same soil and amendments for seedlings as I did for cuttings.