My Amur Maple tree doesn't look like a tree. I need pruning advice.
ilovemytrees
5 months ago
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How to prune old neglected apple tree - need advice
Comments (16)I am well aware of what modern day experts recommend. I disagree. I have experimented for 40 years on every kind of tree in my yard. An open wound, like all unsealed drying wood, cracks. Water enters the cracks along with debris and causes rot. Bugs find the moist rotting environment enjoyable and take up residence. Next thing you know you have one of those trees that are all hollow in the heart. The experts say the tree shuts the wound off and everything's Ok. Well if you don't care how long the tree's life span is and it just has to live as long as you do, Ok, otherwise, it's crap! Just like collar cuts. Under the right conditions, with a branch at a good horizontal angle, they're great, but not every situation is ideal and when you have three or four branches intersecting a crotch to remove it's going to take close cuts and sculpting with chisels to get cuts that will drain and heal and not rot. Keep in mind, these new methods are designed for todays professionals who must temper perfection with time is money. Sterilization takes time. Reworking the cut with hand tools takes time. Periodically inspecting and renovating the wound takes time. Properly treating the wound takes time and an improperly dressed wound is worse than no dressing at all. If you can come up with a reasonable compromise then you have saved a lot of time, therefore, money. None of this applies to the home orchardist. He can do a little at a time and do it right. Remember, these same experts are the ones who prune maples in March along our highways and byways, instead of waiting until just after bud break which would promote an almost immediate callus to form, and no bleeding. Lastly, fruit trees seem to be about the slowest to heal and the most prone to fungal diseases, so any precaution, no matter how time consuming is warranted. Methods like clean, close cut and wound dressing were developed over thousands of years by the people who developed most of our fruit and nut cultivars from wild, inedible plants, the Chinese and the Italians. Even if my own experiments hadn't convinced me, I'd still ere in favor of the ancients!...See MoreNeed pruning advice for my peach tree
Comments (20)Note: I am the originator of this post and a self-taught gardener! From my understanding, it's a great thing to have an established v-shape already, so YAY on your pickens! I would start by pruning for the three D's - dead, damaged or diseased. Also, the smaller branches I would completely cut back 10-20'' from the ground. Also, be very cautious about when you prune in the spring. This past year, I pruned around my usual April 1st timeframe, and then we got hit with an untimely and detrimental frost that messed the entire growing season for so many plants. I'm in New Haven, Connecticut for reference. My peach tree got inflicted with a serious case of leaf curl and I thought it would die! I saved it by making a homemade anti-fungal solution of water and oregano oil. I also gave it one dowse of a water and beach solution as a Hail Mary since the harvest for the year was shot. All these leaves had turned brown and fell off. Then, the tree came back with a fury, more than I could've imagined, and made a full recovery sprouting new leaves everywhere. :) Next year when I prune, I will be dowsing the tree in my homemade oregano oil solution to hold back the spores that come with the spring season and could possibly reestablish a fresh case of leaf curl. It's good to do this as a preventive since they are so susceptible to the disease. I've read to remove and burn old leaves, but I haven't done this and am going to see how the solution helps alone. If it's helpful, I'm also going to try this method on my peonies that caught leaf blotch this year, too....See MoreNeed Pruning advice for my nectarine trees
Comments (8)A quick google led to this Here's how to prune nectarine trees. Nectarines are a great substitute for peaches. The main difference between nectarines and peaches is the skin texture. Nectarines have a smooth skin while peaches are sort of fuzzy. Because of the smooth skin, nectarines appear more reddish as compared to peaches. Early pruning is very important to maintaining healthy nectarine trees. When pruning nectarine trees, it's important to remove the previous year's growth, as well as any branches that are dead, damaged or diseased. Pruning the inner branches of the tree helps open it up to more sun light and better growth [source: URI]. Here's how to prune nectarine trees. Prune nectarine trees lightly at the beginning of the summer. Prune away any diagonally crossing limbs that are rubbing against other limbs. All new growth that appears weak should be pruned away. Prune away any dead, damaged or diseased branches, as mentioned above. Stagger the branches. Cut the branches back to different lengths to encourage new fruiting wood to form throughout the crown, not just on the tips of the branches. For example, cut them by staggering the branches thus: the first by ¼ inch, the next by 1/3 inch, and the next 2/3 inch back. Remove any shoots that start growing up the tree's center, to keep the area around the main trunk fairly open. Make your pruning cuts at an angle. Remove all debris and cuttings from around the tree...See MoreJade advice needed - pruning/wiring/etc - building the tree
Comments (10)Still wondering if there were roots, or is it cutting without at roots? I put all my plants into quite a bit of sun right away - area that get sunshine from sunrise until about noon-, but it was quite earlier and sun is getting stronger now. They were moved into full day sun spot after about 2 or 3 days, and are there all the time. They got rained on quite a bit - we are having lots of rainy days this Spring - but they are potted in very gritty mix and I do not worry about drainage or any water retention. If your plant has roots, I would move it already into more sun (Just speculating, but am thinking it has been on the porch for at least 2 weeks?) I would move it where it gets at least few hours of morning sun, and moving into more and more every 2-3 days. Sooner it's done, better so plant can get all sun available until it has to go inside again. For leaves to grow close together to have more compact plant, only good light will help. Even if it doesn't have plenty of roots, IMO it should get more sun. Morning sun is good, and I would move it into stronger sun at least weekly. If you only have totally exposed spots, you can create some shade when needed by positioning bigger potted plant in front of your jade, or even something like a chair. Garden umbrella is great...I don't think wiring should make much difference in sun exposure, you want plant to grow strong limbs and los of leaves close together (but I never wired any jades...) I started to use gravel or rocks for topdressing because of squirrels - it does help a lot. I find chipmunk more of a problem, it hides more 'food' all over the place...I have some grass (or whatever seeds neighbour is feeding birds with) growing in many pots without topdressing, haha (my potted annuals and some big tropicals). Small sized topdressing doesn't really help....See Moreilovemytrees
5 months agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
5 months agolast modified: 5 months agoilovemytrees thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5ilovemytrees
5 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
5 months agolast modified: 5 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
3 months ago
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