Usually any garden center or big box store will have them. You could also try Lee Valley Tools on-line. They carry several lines of garden stuff. I've purchased a few thing from them and been quite happy. I often meet up with them at the Rochester Garden Show, but they also have a catalog. Keski

I'll bet those would sell like hotcakes at a craft show. Of course in a month everybody and their brother would be selling them. lol I don't have a junk pan but will certainly look for some at yard sales. I usually see one or two in the free boxes.

The title scared me!! What are they moving! Must have hit the wrong key to only get an apostrophe for feet, instead of quotation marks for inches. I am going to say that spade is at least as deep as it is wide, you should get 2 of those squares. You will be trying to contain a lot of dirt with the burlap. You can fold the edges together overlapping, have plenty of material to go around the dirt, be gathered up at the top. You could call a tree mover company, ask how much is needed for a dirtball that size. The burlap always will come in handy later. You can wrap a shrub in winter, use the burlap to put weeds or leaves on for collecting to move. Toss the piece over your tomatoes for a frosty night.

Yes, you want to get more roots by bare-rooting rather than cutting the root system down small so you can lift an intact soil ball. The exception is the minority of species of trees that cannot have their roots exposed to air for any length of time. And like the others this minority will not like having their roots cut way back. Yes, you want to dig wide, shallow holes and do not want to plant over loosened soil that the tree will sink down into later. The new area of loosened soil around (and not under) the tree should extend well beyond the ends of the existing roots at planting time. Do not stomp the fill soil down around the roots after the tree is in place - an apparently common tendency - as you are installing a living thing that occupies the humidified air spaces between the soil particles - and not a fence post. Growth of new roots into the soil around the planted tree will be most robust if the soil is loose and well-aerated. New root growth from the cut root ends will not start until the dormant winter buds at the ends of the shoots open in spring. At this time hormones are generated by these buds that cause new roots to be made and grow out from the ends of the existing roots. These quickly grow a comparatively short distance and then root growth is reduced again until fall, when there is a major stretching out of existing, intact roots - 60% of the entire annual total of root growth occurs at this time. This schedule means that your transplants will have reduced top growth the first summer, with normal top growth not returning until next year - after the big root push has occurred next fall.