It should not be that way as that is definitely a tripping hazard. Should have been tapered to give a less noticeable transitions for sure.

That is what I think as well!! its ipsetting me because i feel like i know my asking to have the hardwood floor guys redonit instead is rhe right thinf to do, but when im beinf told no, im worng by the contractor, it makes me second guess myslef

I'd never accept a tripping hazard--and that is one if I've ever seen it--because it is inevitable that some day I will trip and fare badly. Anyone would. It's far too risky. I don't know why some guys--and it's almost always guys who work in the trades--insist that it's no big deal. It is; do not let yourself be browbeaten into accepting something so dangerous.

This is a big no.

why can't they do a tapered reducer? I have two in my doorways.

they may have to custom make one out of the same oak, but it shouldn't be that difficult.

https://www.woodfloorbusiness.com/installation/article/15124597/step-by-step-how-to-make-your-own-wood-flooring-reducers

someone who knows wood finishing could taper that current piece so that people don't trip.

why doesn't that wood even match the current floor? are you floors getting refinished?

Try and find a custom molding shop if the flooring guys can't do it.

it should be one of these

Thank you everyone!! you have all validated my concern and at least made me feel like i’m not just being picky and overly particular

i agree with all of you.

yes beth- you arre 100 percetn correct in what you are siggesting. we are having rhe floors refinished , and so we had 2 hardwood floor companies come to give estimates . Both of the companies had said that if they werre to do the repair, they would donexcsrly what you are saying- add Pieces to raise the low end of the floor slighlty, and then add a reducer saddle across the entire length of the gap.

my contractor had offered to fix the gap instead , and to allow the hardwood floor company we chose to just refinish the floor i guess he thought he was doing us a favor. we agreed to let him fix it, but are not happy with the repair when i told him i dont like it, and i want to have the hardwood floor company redo it the way they said they would ( with reducer saddle) he got upset and said the way he did it was better , and that i probably wont like the way the hardwood company does it either becaise there will still be a lip i cant imagine it being any worse than what it is now!!

and yes, you’re correct Beth, the wood they used does not march my current floors which are white oak when i showed the hardwood floor guy the pic, he said that is not white oak,so once they are refinished, the woods wont even match each to boot! i know a repair wont be oeefect, but i think this will be an eye sore and a hazard as well!!

why is your contractor fighting you on this? the hardwood guys do this for a living. Go w/their suggestions. do the reducer and match the wood species w/the new flooring stain color.

Your contractor is just wrong. the way he has it doesn't match and it's an extreme tripping hazard. ask him if he's paying your homeowners insurance for personal injury. if not, advise him thanks but no thanks.

I agree wirh you and i have no idea why he is taking it so personally. we have worked with him for 10 years. he typically always does a beautiful job. ive hinesrly never had to complain or find fault with anytning they have done. this is the first time he got upset and said the wood alone cost $200 plus the labor they put i to it . its our losss finacially, but id rather eat a few hundred bucks, than have to live with an eyesore everyday everyday, and more importanlty , risk getting hurt myself or someone else getting hurt .

i agree that a hardwood floor worker is an expert in this and the one that should be doing the repair.

you can reuse the wood. hopefully they can remove it in one piece.

I have used wood like that for window sills, lined the inside of my window, or just use it as a floating plant shelf (cut down obviously)

I had to do saddles and they used wood like this but they have a wide bevel so the lower floor is tapered to the upper floor. The bevel is probably 2/3 the width of the board and I think he had to make a custom jig to cut it.

I can easiily find something else to do with the wood im it worried about that least of my concern honestly

I dont understand anything of what you wrote joseph

what fo you mean you cant reuse a red oak piece in a white oak floor?

the second comment about a hp router…. i habe no clue what youre talking about

Joe has the simplest solution. I understand it completely, except I would use a circular saw. I've been in the business 30 years and have seen this. Talk to someone knowledgeable and they'll know.

The best looking option is removing the background area hardwood (carefully for re-use) and lace in to the foreground. However you'll need more material. New needs to be placed in an area less visible.

Before thos was done, i initially spioke with 2 hardwood floor companies. both had said they would repair it the same way : add pieces of wood to low side Nd tthrn add a reducer board actoos the lemgth of the gap. seemed pretty straightfoward. cant the hardwood floor company just remove this board snd do the job the way they said they would?

why get saws, edges etc to try and make what is there work? it looks awful. its a different wood as well. my floors are white oak and this is a piece of red oak im not staining the floors, just clear coat , so the colors will be off as well if i i leave this wood .

Low side? So one area of the existing floor is higher than the other?

Yes, slightly. the kitchen floor is slightly higher than the dining room floor; hence the need for a reducer board, which both hardwood flooring copmanies ( ; and a few pros on here ) have recommended .

Ive heard the same recommendation from various sources now, which leads me to beleive that is the way it shouuld be done. the floor guy is coming monday to do it . fingers crossed it turns out better than what is there right now .

I would tear out the dining room, install subfloor and extend the kitchen flooring so it is one level. The opening is too wide for a transition piece.

that would be ideal, however, we have 2 major jobs being done,( kitchen and bathroomt, ) there is nothing wrong wirh the floors , they are in grear condiition, and neither time nor money will allow ius to rip out the entire dining room. both hardwood floor repair companies did not see an issue at all with repairing a 6-8 inch gap. that board they placed down is wider than the actual gap

it seems like the easiest and most cost effecrive soltution to do what repairmen proposed , so that is what we will do .

The first photo shows the floors to be at different levels. Which is a photo of what it looks like after the transition is in place. But, the last photo, which is the before photo. The flooring looks like it is at the same level. Only the joints do not line up, so, a lace-in is out of the question. But the cut line can be straighten out and flooring filled. That would be the least cost affective process. Not the prettiest, but it will save you money. A better way is to cut in a border to define the dining room area.

The floors are different heights. the current kitchen floor was olaced iver an existing floor by prior ownets.

the pictire with the new board is what the ” repair ” was . not happy eith it fir a number of reasons ( hazard, doesnt match, euesore)

it will be repaired tomorrow the way the hardwood company suggested , with patchwork and a reducer board