There seems to be a mismatched of scales on the elevation. The center section is of a larger scale with high eave and a wide tall door and the side parts have low eaves and low window heads possibly no taller than 6-8 AFF. Lowering the window heads is a big mistake because it greatly reduces the natural light in the house and lowers the apparent scale of the house making the center section and door look out of place. IMO windows should be taller than exterior doors unless a transom is added above the doors. The lowest-common-denominator height alignment approach is the result of the post war building boom. Today there is no reason to use short doors and low window heads if the ceilings are taller than 8-0. A "standard door" size is effectively whatever distributors or retail vendors keep in stock. I usually use TruStile doors from Colorado because they are made to order. Interior and exterior doors heights are 4 ft to 12 ft in 1/16" inch increments. Doors over 10 ft tall are not covered under warranty. Shorter doors are made in smaller widths.

danajw, I had the same problem deciding on a fridge last fall. I had a SxS that frustrated me everytime I had to find something in the freezer. Also didn't care for the narrow fridge space too. So, I kicked around the idea of an allfridge/allfreezer but was disappointed in what I found. Fridigaire & Electrolux Ikon had poor construction & maintenance issues. Whirlpool Sidekicks were too "boxy" with no option for a riser like the Fridigaire model. So, I went with the GE Profile FD in ss. Have never liked it! I don't like the layout of FD fridges. I have a family of 6 at home & I am frustrated again at the hide & seek game I have to play to find anything. There is not enough storage room in the fridge because I had to remove 2 shelves (comes with 6)in order to make 2 complete, accross the fridge shelves. Using 6 shelves is a nightmare for a family greater that 2. With multiple tall milk, juice & soda bottles, I had to lower the shelf to get around the light on the roof which is centered in the middle. The fruit & veggie drawers are great and the 1 large pullout tray across the bottom is my favorite because it holds so much & I can PULL IT OUT to find something. When I was looking at a different manuf's model the salesman compared the pullout drawers & told me the one I was looking at was too flimsy & that GE is one of the most solid on the market. I thought, "so what? how often will I use this drawer?" Price difference was minor so I went for the GE. As for the doors, I wish I had gotten 1 door just for the convenience of 1 door to pull & for storage. Too many little buckets... To me, the worst part is the freezer. In the store, they all look SO BIG. But when you get it home & fill it up you realize that NOTHING can be above the level of the bottom of the drawer above it. I am constantly shuffling things around to get them flat so that I can close the door. Not fun when kids help themselves and don't put things back in the exact place. I moved my SxS to the basement when we got this fridge. Now here is the unbelievable part of my story. I emptied all the items from the SxS into coolers, brought in the new fridge, turned it on to fast cool & when I loaded the new freezer, I had SO MUCH FROZEN FOOD LEFT OVER that we had to put a good deal of it in the old fridge in the basement!! I never thought that the SxS held so much more than the bottom drawer freezer. Unless you have a very small family or buy very little frozen food, I find this is a difficult model to live. I had the room for a wider fridge but did not want to spend so much more money on a fridge. We are learning to live with it. I have no complaints with the GE Profile performance except that sometimes the food in the way back tends to freeze & I lower the temp. I would not recommend a bottom drawer freezer unless you have another freezer too. Sorry this is so wordy. Sherry

Hi, ILoveRed. We kept the UPS man standing on the doorstep and opened the package enough to make sure shipping was okay last night, lol. How could I wait? I just posted the photo of the transom sashes unwrapped and copied my "google review" to the TransomsDirect "pro listing" on Houzz but will include the photo again below. [ See if you can see the Google review under the name "RW;" if not I'll send it to you. Houzz also seems to have a delay? I don't want to run on and on but when they deserve it, they do! And I hadn't been able to find any reviews to speak of other than a few stars. (I don't belong to Facebook, maybe some are there.) Calling this company did help me feel better about ordering online. So I figured some others would want to know this is a legit company, and how good they were for me! ] Maybe the people at Transoms Direct can help with your decisions? They did help me, without railroading me into what they thought I should do. They really seem to care that you're happy and that the design is what you want. For more, read that review, don't want to repeat myself! I should note that in this photo, the edges of the frame -- the sash material width of 2-7/8" -- is wider than normal ( 1-3/4" I think?) for this company, but I was matching some transoms I already have -- at just under 2-15/16" wide material. They came very close,didn't they!? (They'll also do a very narrow sash - what they call a "direct set," almost all glass. ) Be aware your transoms might have a diff frame width, more glass and less wood? Plus, the transoms I already have had a different "sticking" - the verticals between lites were "ogee" profile while my newer 4ft French doors had what Transoms Direct calls a standard or beaded profile. We went with standard, saved a small upcharge. More importantly, I measured the lites, calculated, and thought that 5 lites would look better over those French doors than the standard 4 lites. They did that, too -- you can see the one in the photo has an extra lite compared to their TR-1 for a 48"x16". Seems they build everything to order and changes are no problem. The only thing is I wish they had a pre-primed option. But they say up front that they can't do that, so I'll be priming and painting the sashes. Then, we chose to order sashes only and we'll build the jambs and install them ourselves. (DIY'er here.) Saved on shipping. (The jambs were costly because the shipping is added in to them and the boxes have to be so much bigger, I think. They do have a very good ".pdf" on their website with the procedure for doing the jambs and installation yourself. Worth looking at even if you're not. ) Good luck with the decision making! I can get caught agonizing -- so glad to have this one made! EDIT: Just to be CLEAR, these unpainted sashes are the new transoms from TransomsDirect.com, just out of the box. (The pictures showing installed transoms in the further posts below - the frosted ones - are the old transoms I had that I was trying to match. So they look a little rough in the old trim, etc.)

The architectural forms of the OP's inspiration house and the Cape Cod house above were brought to America by the earliest English settlers in the second half of the 17th century. The remaining exampes in England are in the Cotswold region of England; the examples, old and new, in the US are often referred to as Post Medieval English. Cotswold Cottages: In the US: (not as many wall dormers) 1668 The inspiration house got the proportions right but the OP's architect did not. However, the inspiration house architect deviated from the style with the use of a segnented arch transom over the center monumemtal window, possibly a southern thing.