I agree with Pussuskattus 's 2 points: perhaps give into the hubby if it will not impact the overall look of the area; and be careful of how you put all your elements together. Think of what you want for the overall look of the space. We wanted very clean, earthy lines for our kitchen and we chose a gutsy granite for our island top, so it was a no brainer to go with a simple edge- we chose 1/8" radius edge for both the Black Marinace and the Soapstone we put on the perimeter counter tops. I was unsuccessful in uploading my pics, but I've added a link so you can see how bold my island top is! How will your chosen edge go with the quartz you chose? The other tip I offer you is from a friend who did a no-expense-spared kitchen and who got talked into a two-pieces of granite with some elaborate ogee/waterfall combo: "Remember: you are going to have to clean all the edges." So if you like to clean, you will have plenty of places to chase dust (if not food!) out of. If you are like me, and hate to clean, stay simple!! I am sure you have visited friends who have redone their kitchens. It's much easier to get a sense of what an edge does for an entire kitchen when you see it in context, rather than on a piece of paper or a sample block of countertop. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Shot of Black Maranice- used with simple 1/8 radius edge

Does anyone know the answer to this - I have a 2 1/2" mitered flat edge and shaker overlay doors. When the doors were installed I noticed that I only have a 1/8" overlay over the door and drawer fronts. The counter does not protect the doors at all. Now the fabricator tells me that with a mitered edge they can only make a 1" overlay and not the 1 1/2 overlay that is standard with a flat eased edge. They said that when using a mitered edge only an inset door and drawer will do so that you can get enough overhang. Has anyone ever heard of this before? Any suggestions in how to correct this problem? How to add on to a granite edge. I can't rip out the countertop. Could possibly plane down the doors and drawers or make new inset doors and drawers but this is problematic to do.

Wow -- thank you for the feedback! It's helpful to hear al sides of the story. Caligirl's photo (first one of the second group, all white with the black daisy) is the one I actually sent to my contractor awhile back to show him what I wanted. From what I have read, it seems that hex tile was fairly common for counters during the 20s (if you actually had counters), while natural stone was not as common as people think (too costly to get big slabs, which is why people had small marble pastry slabs on baking tables), and actually wood and linoleum would have been pretty common, too. I found a lot of pictures of hex tile kitchen counters, too. The first is one of my favorites: My built-in cabinets are original to the house, and I love them. The countertop on those was originally wood (although it currently has circa 1980s beige tile over it, which will be going at some point). My guess is that trends for built-ins vs. freestanding cabinets varied regionally because there are a lot of kitchens around here with cabinets very similar to mine (in fact, I salvaged the ones I will be using in my renovation from a friend who actually ripped hers out! I tried to talk her out of it.) Here are my original cabinets: And here is the counter space in between the sink and stove on the opposite wall that will house the new (hex?) tile. It is only a few square feet, so I think the scale of tile will be important. Because I have so little of it, this counter gets a lot of use and gets a lot of hot pans from the oven put on it.

Hello - I had minera in my bathroom and had to remove it and go with quartz. It started to chip and pit within three months. I called the company and they let me know that the jewel collection is prone to this. Read up the original thread.