I think your wasting your time on the toilets. Water for me costs $0.005 a gallon (water & sewer, plus billing & service charges), with that price if the toilet is flushed 10 times a day and you manage to save 1 gallon per flush, net savings per month is $1.50. Big deal, I would think a better and cleaner flushing toilet is more important! That 300 gallon savings could easily be used up by washing a car twice, water your lawn once, 4 minutes per day longer showers combined residents, letting kitchen faucet run 6 minutes a day during dishes, you get the point. Your efforts are better spent on fixing leaks especially toilet flappers (unseen leaks) installing water conserving accessories such as flow restrictors, educating about water usage, lawn watering, car washing, etc. I would venture to say most high water bills are caused by undetected leaks, but more often, missreadings/billings. I just filled my 15,000 gallon pool; total bill $75.00. $1000.00 water bill is a lot of water.

To fix this issue on my toilet I replaced the flapper with a new model, the Korky Ultra 2X Universal. This new flapper has a dial for the amount of flush. Adjust it to your liking and get a perfect flush every time. Most new flappers in your local hardware store have this feature now. Had the same issue with a flapper I purchase about 2-3 years ago. It was still in good condition but was not adjustable and had yellow floater. Back then most flappers were designed to save the most amount of water, which resulted in subsequent subpar flushes. In my experience, guests in your home won't hold down the flusher. This led to some unpleasant surprises for the next person who used that bathroom.

I don't think its the Fluidmaster valve that is causing a problem; its just the bracket binding on the rod. As suggested, I can probably reduce the immediate problem by sanding down the rod and getting the bracket to move up and down more smoothly. However, if I have any issues with the rubber "bulb" that slides down and closes off the tank (e.g., the rubber breaks or deteriorates) I have not found any replacement item. It might be time to try one of the newer flappers that clamp on the overflow tube. However, since the current "bulb" slides straight up and down instead of using a pivoting flapper like most newer toilets, I assume the rubber seat is also more vertical, which might affect how it seals. If I get one that definitely works I will then know which modern replacement parts I can use in the future. Thanks, Bruce

The flapper may need replacing or it isn't being lifted far enough and is being sucked back down by the force of the water draining from the tank. Using the hole on the flush rod that is closest to directly over the connection to the flapper will work best, though I've rarely noticed much difference. The chain should be just loose enough so there's no tension when the flapper is closed, and short enough so it won't get caught under the flapper when it's closing. To avoid multiple flushes, you might want to close the supply shut-off valve while making this adjustment.