gap quartz backsplash
Tito2
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millworkman
last yearTito2
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Need input: gap at end of counter before adding backsplash
Comments (10)Hi a2gemini, Holy cow--your first counter actually avalanched on the way to your house?! Egads, that must have been an awful feeling. I'm glad that you had a great job after that! I live in northern Massachusetts. From all of my reading of GW, I should have known better than to go with the stone guys that we ended up with. It was one of the areas of the project where I got too tired of wrangling with other members of the family and took the path of least resistance. (And while I don't normally take that path, at the time, I was too exhausted to argue that we should look for another estimate/opinion on which stone contractor to go with. As my brother says "sometimes my life is just a lesson to others of what *not* to do!") --Lee...See MoreGap between backsplash and over-the-range microwave?
Comments (31)I like your attitude and advice, Jancy. I do love my choice of countertop (Silestone Cemento Suede), which I paired with natural cherry shaker cabinets (3" wide rails and stiles) with orb hardware. I was going for a simple, warm modern farmhouse look. The kitchen is around 7' x 12." Three straight sides, no corner cabinets: a pantry wall with fridge (approximately 7'), an island with sink (approximately 7'), and a wall with range and otr microwave in the middle (approximately 7'). So my range wall is of similar length as yours, Jancy (90'). That wall is the only one with a backsplash and like you, I didn't want to deal with grout. I also liked the simplicity of the full-height backsplash... and, as a bonus, I had the extra material available from the countertop slabs, so I only needed to pay a bit extra for installation. Also, another consideration is that the kitchen is part of a great room and is visible as soon as you walk in the door, so it felt as if the stone backsplash would give the cabinet more of the look of furniture. I definitely don't want tile (even though I said earlier that might be an option). I would consider a stainless steel plate with brushed finish because it feels as if that would tie the range and microwave together... as if they were all one unit. However, the wall may be too short and the stainless too industrial for the look I'm going for. I do know however that I will not be happy if the stone gets chipped if I have to replace the microwave. In answer to your question, prosource, I believe the microwave will be fairly level with the bottom of the cabinets. The opening is 18" high and the microwave is 17 1/2" high. Also, I don't want to get off subject, but at some point, Jance, I would be very interested in knowing if you used plug mold and, if so, what kind. Or did you put outlets in backsplash? All thoughts welcome....See Morequartz backsplash if you have a quartz countertop
Comments (5)there are a zillion versions of each approach available in the Photos section of this site -- just search for "quartz counter and quartz backsplash" or "quartz counter and tile backsplash" and start bookmarking the ones you like. eventually you'll get a sense of what fits your taste....See MoreGap between breakfast bar countertop and backsplash wall
Comments (15)@HU-264143355 Very astute observation. Sadly one of the interesting things about living in a 50-year-old condo is that nothing is level with each other or within itself. Such is the case with my breakfast bar after the tiled bartop was demo'ed. The wooden top horizontal beam of the pony wall sits about 1.5 inches lower from the other side, with one end rising above the drywall it's sandwiched between, and the other end sitting below. It's a very dense wood (oak?) and even masonry drill bits got worn out quickly. And there are a bunch of large-headed nails over the top of it. So the decision was made by the countertop installers to shim everything. I did not like the L brackets they offered, so did my own stealth brackets - creating a deeper channel on the higher end of the pony wall and gradually shallower channels to no channels on the low end and added some wood shims as that end of the wood beam was sitting below the drywalls. It was a lot of work for first-time DIYer but I managed to have all 7 stealth brackets sit level with each other on this wonky wall (I know it's overkill, but I'd rather have that than worry about a falling or cracked quartz countertop later). I used 3 inch long screws - 28 screws total. I also made the end of the brackets slightly higher compared with the screwed end, as recommended by various pros I read about on the internet. So, I really hope that countertop is not going anywhere. I thought the installer would level with a ton of wood shims, but turned out he shimmed only with caulk! He used at least a whole bottle of DAP Alex Plus Fast Dry 20min Latex + Silicone caulk while he was here. That was how he shimmed my kitchen cabinets as well. Anyway, so what's UNDER the breakfast bar right now is a mix of stealth brackets, pony wall wood support beam, a ton of caulk, and dry wall. On the kitchen side, that gap I am referencing is the other dry wall that sandwiches the wood beam....See MoreTito2
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