Oy. I had a master plumber and an top man installer. The plumbing runs behind the single big oven (Gaggenau combi- over convection) then to the side, with the trap and valve in the neighboring cabinet. The trap is a P coming out of the wall, met crosswise by the drain line from the oven. It's a standard sized one. Couple of inches? About a foot or foot and a half above floor level (I think the bottom of the oven is at 54"). The drain runs through the slab to the island area and joins the main drain which is perpendicular and heads to the main waste line. I think it's Gizmonike who has her valve in the cabinet over the combi-steam oven. People have also talked about having a drain that went straight down into a basement, though I don't know what happens next. Hope this helps some.

I noticed that too. We bought ours when the 6000 series was released here (non-plumbed version). We don't have to add water or empty anything except at the beginning and end of cooking, but having it plumbed would certainly eliminate that step. We think it performs great and use it a lot more than the regular convection oven immediately below it. BTW the regular convection oven takes a water line (no drain) so you may want to take that into account if you decide to go with either the new combi-steam oven or regular convection.

I have a DGC 6765 steam oven which gave an F10 error 3 months after the warranty was out. This link https://youtu.be/DoO9ckyJ-rs, posted by another user here, is very helpful about the type of water pump (but not the actual model used in the Miele). The one in the Miele is an ARS MPP2.02.041.3/ST/S 208-240V. It can be unscrewed with pliers on either side of the pump once it's removed. Inside I found a broken spring (.25" x .75") that I was able to replace from Amazon as part of a 400pc stainless steel variety pack, for $16 and delivered the next day. Problem solved. Very easy once you do it once. As a note, the voltage across the pump in operation is only 170V or so even with 240V applied, because there is a downstream diode that blocks part of the voltage, so as to create a push in one direction only (with the spring returning the piston during the blocked voltage, hence the vibratory nature). I was originally concerned that I had a problem control board (causing an output of only 170V instead of the full 240V, hence the pump not working b/c insufficient voltage was applied). Once I discovered the inline diode, I thought that perhaps it was defective because it has a 500 ohm resistance in the direction of current flow. Hence, unfamiliar with diodes (still), I thought it was creating a voltage drop (which it sort of is, but intentionally) and causing the pump not to run. I ordered new diode and discovered they have the same resistance as the original diode, and therefore eliminated that as the culprit. A "new" replacement pump from Ebay (the only place I could find them) was about $100-$160 and I wasn't convinced that the pump would be truly new/functional (some "open box" etc), so even if I replaced it with a "new" ebay pump, if it didn't work, I was afraid I still wouldn't know if it was due to a bad control board or a "new" defective pump installed from ebay. Hence I decided to take apart the old pump and found the broken spring (snapped and then double coiled over itself).

I have a new plumbed combi steam oven. It connects into a sink drain. The plumber is concerned about the requirement that the drain not be higher 19 11/16 to where the hose connects to the trap. He is worried that in the case the sink experienced a clog, there is nothing preventing water from backing up into the oven. When I called Miele, they said they had never heard of this happening. Wondering if this is something I should be concerned about and any solutions anyone has tried when connecting the oven into a sink drain. Thanks.