Years ago 1-1/2" was the norm for a laundry standpipe, but in the late 70s to early 80Âs the appliance industry started installing higher volume pumps in the washing machines and it was soon learned that the 1-1/2" lines could not handle the volume and velocity of the discharge so the plumbing codes were amended requiring a laundry standpipe to be 2". The type of washing machine that you select has absolutely no bearing on the size of the line. Regardless of what laundry machine you choose, there is no guarantee that when that machine wears out that it would be replaced with a machine of equal size, therefore the standpipe must conform to the code standard for a laundry standpipe. Taking this discussion to the next level, living in a condo you are confronted with a number of problems that your real estate agent no doubt forgot to mention. In most jurisdictions a homeowner may perform "maintenance" on a single-family dwelling or a residential multifamily dwelling so the question then is, what is the definition of "maintenance"? Maintenance is the act of servicing or repairing all pipes, valves, fixtures and appurtenances related to the structure water distribution system or DWV system providing the systems are maintained in the original configuration and layout. Any additions, changes or alterations of the original system, no matter how slight, are defined as "New Work". A homeowner may pull a "self help permit" for "New Work" providing the structure is a Âsingle-family dwelling" solely occupied by the homeowner or members of his/her immediate family. (This can get real touchy; I once worked on a house where the homeowner was denied a self help permit because they had a foreign exchange student in residence in their home for a year.) In residential or commercial multi-family dwellings the homeowner (landlord) or his/her delegates (maintenance department) may perform "maintenance" but they May Not perform any "New work" on the structure. In those jurisdictions that have both Residential/Commercial Plumbers and Residential Plumbers a Residential Plumber may perform service for hire on a single -family residential structure or a residential multi-family structure, but not on a commercial multi-family structure. Generally a "Residential multi-family structure" is defined as any structure with two or more dwelling units but not to exceed 4 dwelling units or 3 stories in vertical height. All structures with 5 or more dwelling units or exceeding 3 stories in height are defined as a "Commercial Multi-family dwelling" and a certified residential/commercial or journeyman plumber must perform all maintenance or new work. In some jurisdictions all "condos" regardless of how large or small the structure are classified as "commercial multi-family dwellings" Your Plumbing Inspector has already notified you that he will not pass the installation unless you install a 2" line for the standpipe however what he did not tell you is that installing the 2" line will involve the tub drain line as well. All DWV (drain, waste & vent) lines) are sized by the code DFU (drainage fixture unit) method. Basically the code has tables listing every type of fixture that can be found in a structure and it assigns a minimum drain opening size and a DFU value. When your tub was initially installed a 1-1/2" line was rated for up to 3DFUÂs and as long as you make no changes to that line it may remain a 1-1/2" line however, if you make any changes whatsoever you would be required to bring it up to the code that is in force at the time of the new work. Under the UPC & the Calif. Code a tub is rated at 3DFUÂs but a1-1/2" line is now limited to 1DFU, therefore if you make any changes you would not only be required to install a 2" line for the standpipe, the tub drain line would also be increased to 2", which is rated for a maximum of 8DFUÂs. Now let us discuss the idea of not installing the washer at this time, then after you have your inspection coming back and installing it. Sadly this is commonly done, but if you elect to do so you should be aware of your liability. If you should happen to have an overflow, and if that overflow were to cause any property damage to the dwelling unit below you, you would be liable for all property damage. If you were to then turn that in to your homeowners insurance they reserve the right to come out and inspect the damages to determine the extent of liability. If they note that you have a washer/dryer hookup but the other dwelling units in your condo do not, that would raise a red flag and they will go looking closer. Do not discount insurance investigators because they are fully familiar with code and if they find your installation is non-code compliant they may elect to contact your local code enforcement office to determine when the installation was made and if it was done to code at the time of installation. If they determine that the installation was made without a permit, they may opt to deny your claim. Now to add insult to injury, once they contact the code enforcement office to verify a permit, the code enforcement office has authority to come make an inspection. When the code enforcement office determines that you made the installation without a permit, they will issue you a summons to appear in housing court, where you will be given a hefty fine and they may issue an order that you have not more than 180 days to have the entire dwelling unit brought up to current code.

Can you solve the door issue for Room C by making it an outswing? When open it would then be against the wall with what I assume is some kind of air return / chase. In your bathroom you might also gain some privacy for the toilet by pushing the shower up towards the closet and then putting the toilet on the shower side. Then you can put the linen closet or cabinet across from the toilet (that could also hold toilet paper for when you realize you're out ;) Would be shallower but the back of a 40" deep linen closet would probably be fairly inaccessible anyway. Would perhaps be less private when using the vanity because of the mirror, but do you generally use the toilet when someone else is in the room anyway?

Just a couple things I'd like if I were doing this. can you straighten the wall with the door? I'd bring that wall straight and enlarge the bathroom by that foot. The shower for me is too long at 7', unless you will be double showering. I have a 5' long shower and that is plenty. I have French glass doors on my shower that are 28" each wide and span the 58" space (60" rough space) nicely. You may not even need a door on the size you are working with. I would want a small sink in the toilet room. I don't know why that isn't done more often. I recently actually saw a commercial install done this way with their 2 toilet stalls, and a sink in the main room. "Thats what I'm talking about". Put an outlet in the toilet room in case you want an advanced toilet seat. You are probably aware, and may currently have,. tempered glass in the window at the shower/tub. You might need a louvered door on the laundry closet, so makeup air gets in easily for the dryer. If you are doing the whole room, I'd like to see what it would look like with the vanities at the window wall, and the shower and laundry at the wall where the vanities are now. It might not be possible, considering the scope of your project. But it would be fun to draw it up just to see. This plan would shrink the shower, and may not be what you'd want. With a smaller shower, there will be less issues with planning for doors. The window wall could allow for a full vanity with much more storage and counter space for folding. Also you could put in a pull out draw for hanging things, and a pull out draw/ironing board. I also don't like the shower in the location, because thats what you see when you walk in the room, and the person showering. The window in the shower blocks access to the woods and window IMO. if it was part of the counter, you are closer and feel more connected to the woods.

Agree with Mark. First thank you for the work you do! Problems I see right off the bat: Your kitchen will be dark with no natural light. Additionally the layout is poor with the pantry breaking up counter space and your not having enough prep space. Most prepping is done next to the sink. Bare minimum for prepping is 30" and that's frankly inadequate. It looks like you only have 24" on either side of the sink. How will the hood over the stove vent? Actual usable living room space is NOT 15' x 15' because you need passage space between island and living room and ideally if you have seating at the island counter, you need 60" between the island and furniture in living room. Based on the drawing it appears you'd have about 42". Actual usable space for a sofa as shown would be closer to 10'-11' from the wall. (In reality, the dining room gives you the true space for the living room too.) Are you ok carrying food to the dining room every single night you eat? (Trust me, eating at a counter gets old after a while.) If you and a partner are on different wake schedules, think how having the master bath across the room from the master closet will impact your waking and sleeping schedules. Hanging clothes can't turn corners in closets. Lots of wasted space in the center of that closet. Bedroom 2 will be seen from the dining room anytime they need to use the facilities. So much for privacy. Bedroom 2 is too small for even a full sized bed at 9' 3". A full sized bed is 54" wide. So 9'3" is = 111". 111" - 54" = 57". You need 3' of walking space on either side of the bed. So the drawing they have is way off. And there's be absolutely no way to open the smaller closet door. I assume you won't use bedroom 3 as a bedroom because if you do, it means they'll have to walk through the dining room to get to the bathroom. Your entry from the garage is a narrow dark passage where you also have your laundry room and no, I see no way to create a decontamination room. I see very little storage. Where for example would you store you brooms, vacuum, etc?