Kitchen remodel 1960’s gut: open shelves, lighting dilemmas
Hello all! Ideas, solutions needed! Im almost done with a major renovation in a 1960s gut job, opened up walls and updated floors, powder room and working on finishing the kitchen, pantry and particularly stuck on the open shelving.
Its a design dilemma I did not anticipate having in the corner because of an oversight of mine. The microwave cabinet is much deeper than what I have seen people normally do in the corner and the shelves would be about half the depth of the cabinet, unless I order that portion of shelves to be deeper, and im concerned that would be odd. Im considering no L shape as well and doing something like the houzz pic below, but would this work in my kitchen? Shelves would either be a soft white vs ebony vs charcoal and floating vs supported with corbels.
I’m having other doubts as well. The other dilemma is my hood, which I may have to let go because of budget for now, but thought it would look sooo sweet with a painted wood hood cover in soft white vs matching to cabinets. What do you think?
I cannot return the hood because its beyond the return date. Soo was thinking i could… down the line… get a custom hood cover to out over it….I would have to figure something out b/c buttons are on front of hood.
Current progress- waiting for PB cline counter stools in charcoal and hood duct cover is off.
Last, but not least lighting, artwork, and finishing touches!
Pendant lights:
Im not a huge fan of the lights I picked out above the island. Would some pendants that match my chandelier look better? Ghe same ones in milk glass? Ideas?
Living room light:
Ideas needed for flush mount lighting
My dining chandy:
Other progress pics, please ignore the mess and the dining area.
Comments (8)
Related Discussions
Kitchen open floor plan remodel, 6 months later. Thanks GW
Comments (57)Laughable- thanks so much for the link, perhaps we can do something like that this summer when we have more time. Looks like a great fix for now until we can save the 3K for window treatments. Whit- our kitchen is just over 16' long and 12' wide. For the lighting plan we actually have a small pendant to still put in over the kitchen sink. We originally purchased 2 pendants over the peninsula, but with the kitchen light fixture, dining chandelier so close by we nixed it. We used the highly GW rec. home depot LED 4" lights. We had the electrician put them where we needed them most and have 8/9 in the kitchen and then more threw out the first floor. They are all on dimmers. With out the uppers to worry about shadows on the countertop we rarely turn them all the way up. During the day I rarely turn on any lights as the place gets lots of natural light. Good luck with your remodel. I really working in this kitchen and find it plenty big for us. We hosted Christmas and had about 5-6 people cooking/prepping and it was great. Cleans up well and the peninsula has been perfect for my 3 year olds meals and craft time and keeps her at bay while I cook. Just wanted to ad our much anticipated new addition finally made her debute fashionably late on 2/13/13, a successful VBAC: We are enjoying her just as much as the kitchen ;)...See MoreLayout Help with 1960s Ranch Kitchen
Comments (43)regarding W/D in the home gym.... If you do that, then you have forever relegated that room to a laundry room. It becomes a very large laundry that is used as a gym. IMHO, I don't think a very large laundry will be a selling point. I would rather have a multipurpose room that can used for many different things. If you keep the home gym as a multipurpose generic room, then it can be used as a guest bedroom, kids playroom etc etc as your life changes. However, if you are willing to give up the bedroom, it solves the issue of your powder room where the guest is not walking through the laundry area. In general, it is nice to be able to direct the guests to the powder room which is NOT a personal bathroom. If you direct the guests to the hall bath, that is in the private area. My guess is that you want a useful/nicer powder room for the guests to use. When you remodel, you think you solved one problem, you notice another problem! I would work the floor plan more so that you have a really nice inviting 1/2 bath with better doors in that hallway. You are already doing an enormous amount of work. This will not add that much to the work. At this point, it is just your time.......See More1960's Split-level Kitchen - Design - Process - Reveal
Comments (52)This is amazing, sockpuppetpete! I am about to do this for a small kitchen in a 2 BR apartment. Do you have any suggestions about where I should start? I am very overwhelmed. I have heard many ppl on Houzz mention IKD and Traemand. Any advice would appreciated. Thank you so much....See More1960s Kitchen Remodel Layout Help
Comments (7)If you don't plan to use the dinette area for seating, you could move the ovens to that wall. I get the impression you are young, but as one ages a wall oven is more convenient. If you choose the range option, that whole space could be used for pantry ROTS, or a framed, reach-in pantry. The ROTS pantry would be as houssaon posted above. If you open the kitchen to the DR, the DW could move to the right of the sink. I continued the counter across the low window, with open space below--I see a pet food dispenser, so that could be kept in the open area. The space to the right of the ovens could be a combination of cabinet and open shelving, or all open shelving for display, since the far corner might be difficult to reach. Or, keep the KA mixer in the corner, where it would be out of the way but easy to pull out when needed. I switched the fridge to the side closer to the DR, with extra deep counters beside it, to match the full-depth fridge box. That would be a convenient area for preparing snacks, serving, and extra prep. I didn't draw it, but you could also make the counters on the sink wall extra deep, to close some of the floor space. BTW, the plan might be off by 6"--7 3/4' + 8 3/4' = 16 1/2'. GW archives--extra deep counters Images--counter across window One of the pics in the above link gave me another idea, which would be less permanent than a counter across the window: Maybe you could still have some open shelving on the blank wall:...See More
dippitydoppitydoo
last yearlast modified: last year1. thanks for the advice on this- wondering if you coukd be more specific. Should the L be at the depth if the microwave (deep) and then the side thats on the wall be the same depth as the ither shelves?
2. Thanks for confirming this. Hubby and I didn’t care for them when they went up, and feelings have worsened about them lol. Thanks for the pics and the mock up!
3 & 4 I was initially going for an MCM look, but realized it wasn’t for me. I’m looking for a flush mount or semi flush mount light that coordinates with my updated classic home. It doesn’t have to be as fancy as my dining chandelier, but coordinates nonetheless.
5. I think we are done with the electricians right now, but I hadnt even given that a thought. Maybe in the future.
Thanks @HU-695822714 I dont think I will go with black or charcoal as you say. I am considering trim white or my cabinet color. Idk if I want the wood tone anymore. What color would you suggest? my floor color, a warm grey wash like PB’s finish?
TY
would these go btw?
they are 10x7 So definately smaller than the current ones
photos from crate & barrel
dippitydoppitydoo
last yearlast modified: last year
Yes, the original owner had a really heavy fan in there. We wouldnt have done this ourselves, but inspector wont make an issue of it b/c wiring was original to the house and any fixture we put up is much much lighter and we have updated wiring to be safer throughout the house. If it hangs it still needs to be not too tall b/c ceilings are MAYBE 10-12 ft and beam is maybe 10 inches. I do love the soft light that comes from the milk glass.
Pendants:Ok, I see what you mean. I may go with that first one, or something even more simple and that hubby likes too.
Shelves:As far as the shelves I do see that, maybe I can get away with doing about 2/3 depth and keep the other side of L at 8 -12 consistently with the other shelves as originally planned. Thank you for noticing that detail.
And to anyone who will answer:
Taking advice to add some warmth and avoiding going too dark in consideration, I am considering a greige type stain color over maple. A walnut finish IMO is too warm for my taste and I have some grey-ish pieces. Maybe something like my side table finish would go nicely?
Thanks so much for your help so far!!!
general finishes graystone :
https://generalfinishes.com/all-colors
PRORL Relocation LLC
last yearlast modified: last yearThank you. Are you planning for a coffee table in here? I would lean to non descript track ( track lighting doesn't have to be ugly these days) lighting, or rail lighting. you could always hang a light weight drum shade off it in the future. Reason being anything not hanging, is going to look very odd bc the surface will wider than the beam and it will look like an afterthought. Otherwise I would go hanging just to give some intent to the beam placement.
dippitydoppitydoo thanked RL Relocation LLCdippitydoppitydoo
last yearlast modified: last year
RL Relocation LLC