Hi Casey, Good point on the underlayment removal. Thank you for sharing that. Possible furture underlayment removal is a serious concern. Will you be installing new underlayment before the solid oak flooring is installed, or installing the oak flooring directly to the subflooring? Did your old underlayment, not your subfloor, ever squeak or move on you? A major reason for installing our 3/4" thick underlayment is to prevent the 2" long flooring cleats from penetrating the vapor barrier. So we were looking at the underlayment as an extension of the subfloor. The only reason for the glue is to prevent future squeaks, especially in the field where we can't screw into the floor joists and need to use screws no longer than 1-1/4" so they do not penetrate the vapor barrier under the OSB. If you nstall you roak right to the subfloor you will probably be fine but if you are going touse underlayment again, how will you prevent it from moving or squeaking after the flooring is installed? This is our dilemma.

The more specific you get the harder it becomes to match the 'requirements.' Van Dyke's Restorers may have at least some of the hardware you are looking for. Here is a link that might be useful: Van Dyke's

the Alzak trim kits i've seen have reflective parabolic surfaces that are intended to spread light from a conventional (A19) incandescent light bulb (not a floodlamp-shaped bulb). I've considered using A19 LED light bulbs with these (say the dimmable 600 lumen LED sold at Ikea). They don't look as nice installed as a BR30, PAR30, or CR6, all which give a flat recessed lamp surface to look at, and probably still aren't quite as adept at spreading light. It can be less expensive though, especially when comparing a 4" trim kit and $12 LED bulb with a CR4. I've had mixed luck installing even the new, redesigned (625 lumen) CR6 into 5" cans. They work fine with those that have an actual round can beneath the intended trim kit, which most do. But some insulated-ceiling fixtures just have an open box once the trim kit is removed, and there's nothing for the three clips on the CR6 to hold, nor can the Edison screw mount be placed at a certain height so the CR6 is held by the socket at the right height so the integral CR6 trim ring winds up at ceiling height. The 6" version of these fixtures (which i've never encountered) might work by leaving the trim kits in; the 5" version is too small and the CR6 winds up 3/4" from the ceiling.

Sounds like a commercial lock set, or a very high end residential. Commercial lock sets rarely have exposed screws. They use a variety of 'tricks' to hold the covers in place, and the handles also. Spring loaded 'catches' are very common. There will be nothing but a small hole in the handle to use a punch to release the catch. Escutcheon plates will have a tiny gap (often about 1/8 inch long) with a small metal catch 'filling' the hole. You push in the catch and the plate will unscrew. A few have the catch up under the knob and release like a knob. Some have been made that use a spanner to unscrew the escutcheon. Sometimes the knob itself holds the plate on, but the plate will have metal on the back that mates with the lock body and prevents rotation. Some just have a tab that catches in the spindle for anti-rotation. None of them usually require a great deal of force, so look carefully before breaking out a pry bar.