Blue222q: thank you for the compliment on the kitchen! I made a mistake in my measurements because we went through a few modifications on the island and I wasn't reading the most recent modifications when I posted the measurements. The wood counters are 24 1/2 inches each, and the quartz is 78 1/2 inches, giving a total of 127 inches. I love the wood counters. I have a lot of counter space around the perimeter of my kitchen (which is the same quartz as the island) and it really needed something to break up all the white marble looking quartz. Plus I have grayish marble floor tiles. The wood adds warmth to it and I really like the 2 surfaces. I have only had it for a few weeks now but I absolutely am grateful my kitchen designer thought of the wood. It is raised a little above the quartz which I suggest as well. So the wood is not flush with the quartz, intentionally. I could have gone with a thicker wood but for every inch you add on a wood counter, the cost really goes up and I didn't think I really needed a thicker piece of wood. The quartz was put down first in the middle of the island and then the wood on the ends. So the wood is not sitting on top of the quartz. The guys that put in the quartz, ran white caulk(I think that is what it is) on the seam where the wood meets up with the quartz. You don't notice it at all. I'm assuming the wood counter is glued onto the cabinets in the island but I wasn't around when the wood was installed. The book match is good and I'm assuming the more pattern your quartz has, the more you can hide the seam. I don't have a lot of pattern and you do see a very slight line that runs horizontal in the middle of the quartz. You really don't notice it. I'll have to take more photos for you to see it.

mayflowers - "You pay for a slab, you get a new slab." That's what I thought too. When I put granite in my kitchen I got to pick out two slabs from the stone yard. Fast forward. When Cambria quoted me white quartz for my master bathroom ($1600) I asked about remnants and was told they don't have remnants because the fabricators just keep reusing the left over pieces since they are manmade and match (we know that isn't always true). It's possible Caesarstone could be reusing pieces just like Cambria. I ended up going with a Hanstone remnant and saved $600. I'm wondering if the OP got to see the slabs in person and pick them out.

The dip is caused by fabricator/installer error. It is not from over polishing. I'm betting the original seam edges were cut out of square which made them have to shim the short ends of the top up to get the seam to close. The shop caused the installer to choose between a tight seam and a dip or a poor seam that was flat. I'd put a fresh diamond blade in a Festool rail saw and cut the seam loose in three passes. (The heater bar trick works for stone, but it may discolor estone; too much risk.) Dust free with a shop vac on the front of the Festool. Then I'd dress the freshly cut edges with a Seam Phantom on site, again dust free. I'd shim the cabinets to eliminate the dip and pull the dressed edges together with Gorilla Grips. May have to borrow another pair depending on the island width. I'd scrape the seam with a porcelain blade to avoid metal marks on that light quartz. Polish the edges to match the top. No cabinet damage, but the island will be 1/8" shorter than before. One day. Maybe two guys depending on the island size. Make 'em fix it please. You're doing them a favor in the long run.

Because of the pattern difference on that stone I don't see an angle cut working too easily. It might require another slab. I'd want to approve the layout and how it looked after fabrication at the shop before delivery/install. No sense bringing it out if it isn't right. Non-negotiable for me. I'd settle the approval process before awarding the contract.