Veggies vary in whether they are sensitive to photo period. The veggies you listed above are not, but many of the bulbing veggies like onions and garlic are. They don't get triggered to bulb up until the amount of darkness is in the right range. If you wish to grow these crops you will have to choose the variety you want. Onions, for example are long day and short day (require different dark period to bulb). There are also a few day neutral types which would probably work better if growing with other veggies. With your hot climate (summer anyway) you will probably find your best luck in the other 3 seasons for outdoor growing. Look into the crops you wish to grow to determine if they are warm season or cool season. Tomatos, cukes and peppers are all warm season while radish and lettuce are cool season. You just have to figure the amount of time the plants take to mature and pick the months where the average temps are closest to ideal. Warm season stuff ideal temps are 75-90F and cool season stuff ideal temps are 60-75F. Radish are quick (30 days or so), lettuce is also fairly quick (60 days or so, less if you harvest it young). Cukes are fairly quick (60 or so days until they start producing), but you want to allow at least a month of solid production before cold or extreme heat/drought do them in. Tomatos and peppers both require a long time from seed (at least 90 days). These are both crops you would do well to start indoors in soil and then 6 weeks after seed for tomatos and 8 weeks for peppers, put them outside in the ground. Consider growing the peppers in containers buried in the ground. They are perennials so you can take them inside when the weather gets cold and grow them on under lights and then put them back outside when it warms again. Hope this is of some help. Also, please post back how well the veggies (particularly the large crops like tomatos and cukes) do indoors for you under the floros. I have only attempted tomatos to fruiting under 400 watts of HPS lighting and wasn't terribly impressed. If I did it again I would probably go to 400 watts of MH and 400 watts of HPS combined. Oh, one other thought is to consider the pollination needs of the veggie. There are cukes that do not require pollination, but many do. This requires insects or your diligence to do it manually. The rest of what you listed doesn't require insect pollination, but fruit set may be enhanced on the peppers and tomatos with some insect pollination. Have fun!

Yea, I realize that. I wasn't concerned about the debate of HID vs Flouro (including CFL) vs LED. I have seen with my own eyes what can be grown under straight flouro, T8's... not even T5's. That is why I decided to use them. I tried to induce more viable information by wording my question about seed to harvest by phrasing it that way, hoping someone would give a honest assesment on yield under flouro. Yep, I don't care about lumens per watt... as I do know it is irrelevant... CD for each NM in the source, that would be worth talking about. Same goes for if my analog is running at 60 vs the digital 20k. Sure... 1 watt is 1 watt, but there is no correlation between 1 watt of X produces the same amount of heat as 1 watt of Y. It all boils down to efficiency. I can make you a 2000w "light" has the faintest glow and great heat producer *oven, cough*, but not so good for plants. It is no myth that LED does not work either, as my girlfriend uses them for her orchids in a room with no sunlight. I just never grown vegetables, indoors, under lights... so that is where my question is going. I guess I should have left it at... Assuming I'm using your favorite light source of choice and everyone else's sucks, is growing veggies under light a just "let it run it course" until it pops veggies? All I wanted to know was about the photo period, if any, or if there was nute triggers, if any, and just some shooting the breeze about flouro experiences. I can already tell the people who bag flouro so hard have never tried it. "Man... your setup sucks because you aren't using my setup!"

I grew Blaze in a pot for 5 years. It did great. It's now in the ground and still doing great. If the pot is large enough I wouldn't worry about it. If the rose starts to climb in the pot use takes or a small trellis in the pot to tie it up to. I think it should be very happy.

Since you're going to be living in the west side (Peoria) hit up Shamus O'leary's tropical nursery. Definitely the best source for tropical fruit trees in the valley. I've bought a lot of stuff from him in the past and he's very knowledgeable. "Like" his facebook page, he regularly posts things on there and you can ask him questions about growing tropical plants/trees here. He does classes from time to time, mango tastings, sells his own soil mix, foliar fertilizers, etc. He even has a youtube "Shamus O'Leary Youtube channel" page filled with lots of great videos of trees, how to prep your planting holes, feeding, and videos of mature tropical fruit trees in the valley, if you're skeptical about those lol! And please join our very active group on facebook as well - Phoenix Fruit Growers All of those trees you've listed will do well here, and yes even Avocados with proper care. People like to spread the myth around here in the valley that trees like it will not grow here, but if you do the proper soil prep, shading the trees the first few summers, and winter frost/freeze protection, you'll be very successful. There's lots of us growing cool things like this in the valley so do be afraid to try growing them and ask questions in that facebook group I posted above. I myself grow a number of trees that people say would never thrive here. Like Mangoes, longans, bananas, guavas, Ice cream bean tree, Jaboticabas, and the list goes on. Planning to add more in the future, including the new Aravaipa avocado that Shamus sells. It's proven to do very well here in AZ, even in our summer heat.