I will first dovetail on what casey said. Hand planes are something that last a lifetime and can be very satisfying to use if they are good quility and you learn to tune and sharpen them. It go's alot smoother if you have a mentor from the begaining to help select good planes. I wouldn't cut a slab just to fit it through a planer. As casey suggested,have someone run it through thier large planer or drum sander. Depending on a few variables slabs can warp or split. That only adds caracter and is easy to remendy if nessary. My favorite method is useing a router because it will do slabs that power planers can't. An example is where the log is split leaving you with a half round that is impossible to power plane but is a piece of cake for a router.. Go to magizine's online like "Wood" and "Fine Woodworking" and search instructions for building nessary sled for router. I find it easier to debark logs with a pressure washer and "TURBO NOZZLE"before taking it to sawmill. If I get a slab with bark intact I usually proceed with project unless bark is already starting to slip. If bark is still intact when project is complete,call it caracter and leave it.

Back again - you all were so helpful that I wanted to update this post (and of course ask a follow-up question!) I wound up disobeying the GW mandate after my husband balked at the pair of tables. He is anti-anything that seems rustic, and his OCD-ness seemed to kick in with respect to the chore of aligning multiples. I spent the past few weeks freakishly obsessed over this, and wound up back at the giant furniture place in the way hinterlands of Northern Virginia and came back with something totally different. I found a floor model of a marble/composite table by Bernhardt; it's a matte beige color, which wasn't my original intent. But it satisfied the main criteria of being reasonably Lego-proof and Windex-resistant, and it will enable a lot of kid activity without overwhelming the room. Plus it kind of classes the place up, or at least doesn't make it feel any more ramshackle than it already is. Since the table legs are brushed gold, I'm going to replace the mirrors on either side of the window. Here's my new question! I also need to rethink the overhead light I'd picked which was to replace an old ceiling fan. I have a chandelier fetish, but am trying to hold myself back due to 8ft ceilings. This one below seems like a safe choice and it would actually light the room well, but is it too colonial looking? Or this one (which is only slightly goldish... maybe that's better?) This one totally calls to me (19" high; could I ceiling mount it?)

Nosoccermom, yes, for the DR table I expect the bark will come off with use. The table maker sprayed it with the same water based finishing as the table top, but the bark is still vulnerable. DH and I may finish the bark in a much stronger product to secure it more. And we should use a table cloth when eating. But regardless, on a table that will be used frequently I'm sure we'll lose some bark. That's okay I guess, the table will still work. ;) Robo, love that chair from Pier1. I never think of Pier1. I had thought I would go with a cheap knock off of the Eames shell, only $65 I think from EQ3 or Structube: But I think I prefer a tall windsor like the marcel. EQ3 sells the Lyla for $179 but I've seen these in person and they seem too small. I think the Marcel is taller. He are the Lylas: I've been keeping an eye on Kijiji for antique Windsors too. I'm a bit wary though, as the antique dining chars I've purchased in the past were a bit fragile for daily use. Just found these online for $179 each, locally made it looks like, but not as elegant as the Marcel. I will definitely head to Pier1 and check them out.

groveraxle, Thanks for the photoshops. That actually has me back to considering the light grey concrete one the most as it seems to match the overall asthetic better than others I am considering. May not be as thin as what I would prefer but the singlular central base feels like a good compromise.