Well, the verdict is in on Moses' roses regarding black spot.
Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
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BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA thanked BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)Related Discussions
Kordes roses verdict: excellent
Comments (51)I love the Tantau roses I've acquired so far. I have three Bernstein-Rose (the full name) bushes which are small plants whose blooms look a lot like Julia Child's. The blooms are the same size as Julia's, but the plants are way smaller. I have them located on a lower level below my two JCs to kind of echo the Julias. B-R is very healthy with dark shiny green leaves and a nice compact growth habit. It's never supposed to have much size which is what I wanted in the small spaces they grow in. I also have had two stunning Tantau Ascot grandiflora roses for a year which I have been raving about for a while. The bareroot plants took off like rockets and are always in bloom. And they are only a year old. Don't overlook Tantau. Diane...See MoreHeirloom Roses: Your experience/views/verdict?
Comments (52)I don't agree Rosefolly. VID or VI are terms, I believe, for roses indexed at UC Davis. The Florida Southern program does not use that terminology (according to what Malcolm Manners has posted on the web). There is at least one other program that does testing at least (is it Washington State??? I forget). Do they use the VI or VID labeling? Also, if a nursery has all their roses indexed, does that mean each rose must have an individual indicator label on it? And if so, why should they use Davis' terminology if the rose didn't go through the Davis system? Pickering virus indexes their roses but they have no VI or VID shown on individual plants in their online catalog. What about nurseries that received plants from more than one virus treatment program? List the Davis-sourced ones with VI and what then for the others? What about nurseries that didn't get some treated and/or indexed roses direct from the organization that had the program? Should these indirect sources be trusted that the rose really did go through a particular system (not necessarily which one is even listed as is the case sometimes with Vintage)??? But as to what you've received, with virus symptoms from Heirloom, I would ask you which rose (s) was it? And secondly when (what year approximatley)? I think this matters and is actually important to know. Was it last year, 5 years ago, 20 years ago or? Heirloom was beginning their rose mosaic virus program back in the early 1990s, and what they were doing was right there described in their catalog. Just like with any company that has a warranty on a product, that doesn't mean that the product can never have a problem, what is important is what the company does about the failures, not only as to a replacement, but also how they work to prevent them in the future. I give high marks to companies that make the effort to improve their products, and also to those that disclose how they are doing so. Heirloom I feel should be praised for taking on a huge task (with so many US roses infected with rmv), at no doubt considerable expense, when many others chose to do little or nothing (even when the market was booming). That means that various rose nurseries let places like Heirloom do the heavy lifting and bear the burden of cost of testing/treatment, while they could sit back and rest on their laurels. I think it is really unfair to criticize a business that has actively sought to produce only rose mosaic free roses when this criticism benefits the nurseries that didn't help. I have to wonder if more nurseries had a policy, decades ago, such as Heirloom's that many more roses would now be in commerce rose mosaic virus free. There could have been cooperation with one nursery testing/treating a particular rose or roses and another nursery doing others. I think if this had happened, the rose-growing public would have benefitted and become more educated. I think there would be less acceptance of virused roses and in general healthier, longer-lived roses on the market. As we've heard, from Malcolm Manners and others, roses that are clear of rmv perform better than those that are infected. How much of the difficulty in various parts of the country have gardeners had because they've bought virused roses and then been disappointed at the lack of vigor or extra care required? What about replacements needed? If sickly roses are the starting point, will people continue to buy a faulty product? Just IMHO but I think the lack of wide scale participation of rose nurseries in rmv programs has been a contributing factor in the loss of popularity of the rose as a garden plant. Melissa...See MorePlease help. I bought Rose with Black Spot today on sale.?
Comments (9)Mike, It's not that bad, IMHO! Looks really nice, aside from the black spot. First, pick off all the diseased leaves only, and discard them in your household trash. Then plant the rose and water it in good. Don't get the foliage wet. Now spray it with a fungicide. Do the roses around it, too. Immunox or Bayer work very well. Follow up on a good schedule thereafter, very important. You may see disease free leaves show a little black spotting over the next few days, even after spraying your rose. Don't get puzzled. They will not progress any further. They were getting ready to show up next, and the spray caught them in mid stream. The black spots we see are the reproductive parts (blossoms, so to say), of the black spot fungus plants. Yes, they are plants, quite different from roses, but still plants. Enjoy your new rose. Is it fragrant? BTW, I believe Moonlight is a yellow rose? Moses...See MoreSad Roses - Black Spot and Maybe other issues
Comments (55)louislinus You have a beautiful house. I love your gorgeous stone-walkway. The above pic. (white rose) has a green rose slug. Rose slugs (sawfly larvae) infest roses in poor-drainage clay. You have lots of Walker's low blue catmint, which thrive in heavy clay here. The second pic. (from the top of your post) shows lots of holes in leaves, besides black spots. I also see rose-slug damage (brownish-latticed leaves). Holes in leaves are typical of slow drainage dense clay in heavy rain. I used to get holes in leaves right after heavy rain, then I moved roses and found water could not drain fast in that spot. Roses that like fast-draining like Queen Nefertiti is most susceptible to rose-slug and holes in leaves. I fixed the soil with fast-draining coarse sand, dug out all the rocks below, and NO MORE green ROSE SLUGS. Do you have dense clay soil? If so, then poor-drainage is a problem in mid-west heavy rain. I would check for drainage: dig a hole near the MOST black spotted rose, pour a 5 gallon bucket of water down that hole. If the water doesn't drain within 10 min, any rose would black spot in that area during heavy acidic rain. pH of rain in Midwest area is 4.5. With my 134 varieties of roses, black spot is no longer a problem once I check the planting hole for fast drainage by pouring a 5-gallon bucket of water, before planting a a rose. If the water doesn't drain fast enough, I keep digging and often I would find large stones that block drainage. High Country roses recommend digging a hole 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. But I often dig deeper than that to check for stones. A quick fix to slow down the heavy & acidic rain is to pile up horse manure (the type with wood-chips, rather than hay). Hay is acidic, but sawdust/woodchips decomposes to alkaline. There's a poor drainage spot where I dug down 2 feet and found water .. but Golden Celebration (black spot-prone) was 100% healthy. I piled up ALKALINE horse manure (with wood-chips) up to 1 feet tall. When acidic rain at pH 4.5 poured down, it was instantly neutralized by that pH 8 horse manure. Stable here deodorizes horse manure with shell lime (high in calcium & high pH). Calcium is the best buffer against acidic rain. The LEACHING of calcium is what causes holes in leaves after heavy rain. Once the leaves are thinned out with acidic rain, they are more susceptible to rose-slugs (green sawfly larvae). I never have rose slugs in the years with horse manure, despite poor drainage clay. In the years of topping roses with horse manure (pH 8), zero black spots in raised beds, and very few leaves with black spots in poor-drainage clay. (posted plenty of pics. in Organic Rose forum). Besides calcium, horse manure has anti-fungal trace elements (zinc and copper) to thicken leaves. Pics below are my roses with horse manure, note the THICKER foliage. Decades ago I saw the same flawless foliage in a neighbor who used horse manure & same with another garden with horse manure. From that time on, I started topping roses with horse manure. I don't spray....See MoreArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
last yearlast modified: last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA thanked Artist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GAKristine LeGault 8a pnw
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA thanked Kristine LeGault 8a pnwlibrarian_gardner_8b_pnw
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA thanked librarian_gardner_8b_pnwrifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
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last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
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last yearArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearArtist-FKA-Novice Zone 7B GA
last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
last yearlast modified: last yearrifis (zone 6b-7a NJ)
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