Sic'em Ray! CRH sit!

😆 yeah, I’m kinda waiting for the face-off.

The quietest, I believe, will be a GSHP.

Any unit rated below 60 db will be quiet. Some boast mid to low 50 dB but this is when they're running at 25% or so capacity. As the load increases the noise will increase into the low 70's db so remember these numbers an if it's a variable speed A/C unit look at the minimum and maximum.

Oh, and don't take the word of a salesman and insist on them showing you the spec sheets because talk is cheap.

Now that I'm logged in for notifications I'll wait for the show to begin.

Kevin I have plenty popcorn and pretzels but you'll need to byob.

As far as equipment is concerned, quiet costs money. The more expensive systems are generally quieter than the less expensive systems. After that, noise can also be caused by poorly/inadequately designed ductwork. Get a 2 stage system which will operate in low stage most of the time - that will help enormously.

"Any unit rated below 60 db will be quiet.

As a decibel reading is a sound measurement, it's quite insightful to say that equipment that measures a relatively lower decibel sound level compared to other equipment will have a relatively lower sound level compared to other equipment

Thank you for the replies. I can’t even ask intelligent questions yet, but I appreciate the input so far. I saw 2 houses today, both worth considering, both have A/C units at least 12 years old. One house is much larger than the other, so lots of things to consider. I’m sure I’ll be back to ask more. And, yes, I realize quiet costs more but quiet is incredibly important to me.

Many newer HVAC units are quieter than older ones. If the area you're looking to buy in is one where housing is relatively more expensive, choose the house for features other than its HVAC equipment it has. HVAC equipment usually can be easily replaced and over the years, needs to be. To be honest, I think most house hunters pay little or no attention to what's installed, so long as their inspector or other advisors confirm "it works".

Looks like the pre show has started and a bad fickin' cartoon, with make believe advise.

HI, Connecticut Yankee,

I started my engineering career in south Texas. As I recall from my time in Victoria, you're at risk--seasonally--of being carried off by a coordinated swarm of mosquitos. That said, the friendliness of the people in south Texas (south of Katy, TX, at least) is worth taking a risk for.

With respect to sound levels of HVAC equipment, you'll need to consider the sound levels of both outdoor units and indoor units. The sound levels of outdoor units will be more or less important depending on their location and the home's construction details. Units in proximity to outdoor living areas, sleeping areas, etc. generally need to be quieter than units installed in locations remote from those areas. Good insulation, good windows, and good air sealing can go a long way to mitigating noise levels of outdoor HVAC units. With regard to indoor sound levels, you'll find variable-speed air handlers to be quieter than single-speed units. Properly designed duct systems help to reduce indoor sound levels, too.

With regard to brands, I suggest you limit your choices to those readily available and serviced locally.

If what you’re chasing is quiet, then you might be best off with variable speed multi mini-splits.

Regarding noise levels, read the foot noted fine print of how it’s define, ‘A’ weighted or something else and SPL at what distance at what speeds. Don’t assume everything is a standard measurement brand to brand.

… And no, geothermal (GSHP) might not be the quietest. Usually all the GSHP equipment lives in the house and that includes the compressor. Don’t assume anything, read the all the specs including all the footnotes and fine print.

IMPO

SR

fsq4cw - I read about mini splits here a lot and it seems like they’d work well for someone in my position. It’d be a good sized house (3000-4000 sq ft) but only me living there, for the most part. Visitors usually shows up once a month for several days and use the upstairs. I’d live on the first floor, as I do now in my rental. All of the homes have very large, two story living rooms. Would a mini split work well? A/C is on 24/7 for most of the year. I live just outside Houston. Yes, I’d be replacing windows if needed.

If you pick a two story pick one with 2 HVAC systems.

Always better to pick a one story with a large open attic space... or if you can find a 2 story with wide open attic. In the 90's and 2000's builds were better so picking something built outside of that time frame you could be in for a lot of work.

The reason you want 2 HVAC systems for a two story is better performance. There are ways around this if the house has only 1 AC, but not ideal... especially if there is no room.

All entry level AC's pretty much regardless of brand are similiar in noise. The most noise for these will be at start up of the unit.

The quietest is the high end Inverter Systems. Except for Carrier and brands associated with them. The compressor makes hissing noises when turning off. The Bosch Inverter is nearly silent on start up (out side condenser) except for minor fan noise.

Regardless of what you pick --- always pick one with a wide open attic. (Tall with room to move around in)

Mini splits are known for making odd noises. Clicking noises. Search this board, you'll see.

I’m in a rental built in 1978 and have been told what I hear are dampers and ducting issues. As well, there’s a general running noise that requires earplugs at night. The units are close to the bedroom but don’t share a wall.

You can buy the quietest rated equipment on the market, but if the duct work is undersized you will will have noise. The location of the equipment inside the home will determine how much you hear. If you are going to renovate the house then consider adding sound deadening insulation between the living space and the equipment. I highly recommend buying properly sized 2-stage variable speed equipment. There are many choices in this range. Mini-splits would not be my first choice for a 3,000+ sq. foot house with high ceilings and an existing duct work system.

The outside condenser should not be located near bedroom windows, and if possible any windows.

Take the dB specs on condensers with a grain of salt. I've found little if any correlation between that spec and the subjective noise level that I hear when they are on!

Question for Mike_home : when you say add sound deadening insulation between the living space and the equipment, where exactly do you mean? Units are outside, side of the house so would I insulate that exterior wall? Or are you talking inside the house where the intakes (I don’t know if that’s the correct terminology; I mean those large vent like things in the wall, and/or smaller ones near the ceiling) are? So mini-splits aren’t great for my needs - older home, large and tall ceilings?

If the equipment is in a utility closet adding insulation to the closet wall might be a option to help reduce noise transmission to the rest of the house. If the equipment is in the attic, then the attic insulation is likely to be sufficient. In some installations the equipment does not sit on the attic floor and is suspended from the attic rafters. These are all installation techniques you can discuss with the installer.

Insulation in exterior walls would block most noise. It should not be necessary to add additional sound proofing. Close proximity to windows is more of a concern.

I would not rule out mini splits entirely. I am not sure if it is the best solution based on the type of house you are considering.

We are about to switch form a seller's to a buyer's market. When you are visiting a house, ask for a demonstration of the AC system at the highest stage setting. No need to have to wait for a house inspection to find out it is noisy. Tell the seller this is important to you.

Some suggestions:

- Rockwool insulation for exterior wall(s). It has good sound insulating properties

- Lineset silencer as some units generate harmonics that resonate in a home

- A dedicated, concrete (or even EPS if you're creative) pad for the condenser