Jeld Wen makes several levels of windows just like Andersen does so it is unwise to just compare brand names. (The Jeld Wen models used to be separate brands called Pozzi, Norco & Caradco) Jeld-Wen also makes all PVC windows. If you want wood windows but don't want to paint them your choices are aluminum clad or PVC clad. Only Andersen makes PVC clad window frames and the sash is covered with Fibrex (a PVC & wood fiber composite similar to Trex decking) on the 400 Woodwright and "Flexicron" paint on the 400 TiltWash and 200 TiltWash (no, it's not a "cladding", but a tough PPG epoxy paint). The 200 Narrowline sash is just painted; please don't use this window. Of these Andersen windows I would only consider the 400 Woodwright to be worthy of putting in a house I was going to live in. The other models just have too ugly a muntin (grille) design and poor sash cladding. The 200 TiltWash has a particularly poor sill design requiring an additional custom sill nosing to prevent it from leaking. I don't believe you would be paying more for Andersen because of its name, but because of the way that it is mass marketed the price is unpredictable. (I priced some Andersen windows at Home Depot and as I was leaving the salesman told me he would drop the price 10%.) The primary disadvantage of the 400 Woodwright is that it is only available in 4 pretty mundane colors. Aluminum windows are generally available in 20 or more standard colors and unlimited custom colors. Andersen bought Eagle Windows so they could reach the "upper end" market dominated by aluminum clad windows. I would consider Andersen to be a good middle of the road product for a reasonable price if you buy it from the right source. Make sure your contractor is not marking them up excessively. I have found this to be the case when they have recommended the 200 series which are heavily discounted to contractors. Aluminum cladding is applied in two ways: 1) a sheet wrapped over the wood base (roll-form) and 2) an extrusion applied to the wood base. To me only the extruded method is acceptable because the roll-form tends to have poor joints and can trap water so the wood rots. For me that eliminates a lot of window models. I believe many builders will tell you anything to get you to use their favorite window from their favorite supplier so I would not rely on their opinion entirely but they should know a lot about the suppliers. Your architect might or might not know a lot about windows. I've used the Woodwright twice with good results but only when the color was not an issue (they delivered the wrong color for one of the jobs). I've gotten good pricing with Eagle (aluminum clad) but there were some problems with leaking glass seals so I wouldn't use them on the ocean again. I won't use anything from Pella; sorry if that offends anyone. I've used Jeld-Wen's unclad middle window (Norco) with good results. I can't remember if the top of the line is extruded but I doubt there is a saving over Marvin. I don't recommend anything from Harvey Industries because they look really bad on the inside. Most of my projects use Marvin but that's largely because people who use me are usually willing to pay more for windows although that may now be a thing of the past. The Ultimate Double-Hung is an exceptional window. It may be expensive but it's not overpriced. Oddly it needs a custom sill nosing because of the poor sill overhang and that adds cost too. I sometimes use an aluminum clad sash in an unclad wood frame for clients that are picky about maintaining a traditional/historic appearance because the exterior trim can be installed at the factory the old-fashioned way. I believe Marvin and Eagle are the only companies that offer that option. I have also used all wood windows from Boston Sash when cost was more important than maintenance (my own vacation house). They even make a wood window with a balance system completely hidden in the sash. I once asked if they could provide cedar, cypress or composite sills and/or trim and they said to bring them whatever I liked and they would use it. On one occasion Marvin's extruded aluminum clad awning window above a kitchen sink was cheaper than Harvey's Majestic roll-form aluminum clad awning window. You can't know the cost of anything until you ask for a quote. Make a window schedule and shop it around. There are some folks on the Window Form who can help if they are still active there.

When I replaced my windows I think Woodwright was the only Andersen insert option. It now looks like you can get Tilt-Wash inserts and also a 100 Series window that can be installed as an insert - is that what you mean by "composite by Andersen"? I was looking for wood interiors. Marvin Ultimate was my first choice but they were a little too expensive for my budget. Andersen Woodwright was a close second and I have been very happy with them. I also looked at Harvey but the quality was a big step down from Marvin and Andersen. I didn't talk to Pella or Renewal by Andersen just because I didn't like their sales approaches. Can't comment on the Andersen 100 Series or other options - but I'm sure others will!

We had our windows replaced a few years ago with Milgard fiberglass frames and the highest UV protection we could get (since we live in Hawaii). Yes, the UV filtering seems to be pretty good and the fiberglass frames don't warp in the heat like vinyl has a tendency to do. The house is wonderfully quiet when the windows are closed. However, I'm disappointed with the overall purchase for several reasons: The quality of the workmanship is very poor. The joints on all the windows have glue sticking out that is impossible to remove. After these few years, that glue has attracted dirt that makes the window corners look very poor. I tried GOOP and several other cleaners before I wrote to Milgard asking for hints on any ways to clean it up but never received an answer. The screens on some of the fiberglass frames are very tight and difficult to get in and out. After accidentally bending two of the screen frames, I had a local screen pro come in to build new ones and he told us that the tightness was OK for vinyl frames but should not be that tight for fiberglass. Finally, the lifetime warranty does not apply to Hawaii (and if I remember correctly - nor within 2 miles of any ocean).

Here's my problem with Pella: I am an architect, and my office specializes in higher-end residential work, so we do specify a lot of windows. In my area, Pella's marketing is aggressive to the point of being obnoxious, and I can't help but wonder "if the product compares well to Marvin or Integrity, why not just let that speak for itself?" It's nearly impossible to get an apples-to-apples comparison of price between any brands, but another thing I've noticed is that Pella's number will look lower--at first. But you have to be extremely scrupulous to make sure they are pricing what you want. By the time you've discovered that Pella omitted something that any other vendor would consider standard (say, screens for your windows,) the price has crept back up to be just as much as the better window. I often feel pressured to consider Pella, probably because there are Pella salespeople literally chasing after me, my builders and even my clients. In my experience, none of the Pella sales people has a fraction of the knowledge that other window dealers have (Marvin/Andersen/Jeld-Wen.) The company appears to spend a ton of money wooing architects, designers, and builders, and that just leaves a bad taste in my mouth. For something as important as windows, I wouldn't take the risk. Also: your builder should absolutely weigh in. Good luck to you.