"Next thing we knew the house started smelling like soot! The fan was actually drawing the air down through the chimney to replace the air drawn out." This is known as back drafting. This is dangerous situation if you have a gas fired hot water heater or furnace within the living space. You could be pulling carbon monoxide gases without realizing it. People living in houses with no AC tend to keep the windows open throughout the summer. It was rare a whole house fan would be turned on with the windows closed. But in a house where there is AC, the windows will be closed when the AC is operating. There is a greater chance of turn on the fan without opening the windows. For safety reasons I suggest the switch for the whole house fan be placed out of reach of children. I also think it is a good idea to use a timer switch in case the fan is left on and someone closes the windows.

good morning Jan, Laminated glass is not an energy product. It is very expensive and would add nothing to the overall energy performance of your windows. You are obviously unhappy over losing the original windows; have you considered restoring them rather than replacement? Although to be honest windows made in the late 40's tended to be a good bit less quality than those made a few decades earlier - with exceptions of course. I can appreciate why you like the simplicity of the single pane wood window, just as I appreciate (and often agree with) the desire of many folks to restore rather than to replace their existing windows. But, despite comments from the restoration industry that restored windows with storms are every bit as energy efficient as the newer windows with all the "bells and whistles", that is simply not the case. Ultimately, restoring older single-pane windows or installing single pane windows is an indulgence that has to be taken as such. My impression from your posts makes me think that you see it that way as well. And while I am not suggesting that certain "indulgences" are not acceptable - again, I often agree with restoring older windows - we have to understand potential the trade-offs involved in doing so. Relatively few dual pane windows made today have aluminum spacer systems. The majority of dual pane windows use one form or another of "warm-edge" technology spacer systems. These warm edge spacers range from stainless steel through completely metal-free systems. All of the newer systems are much better than what was used in dual pane windows even 15-20 years ago. Differences between the best systems used today and those used 20 years ago are such that there simply is no comparison. Like most new products, there was a learning curve involved in developing dual pane window systems. While many folks do have concerns about longevity of dual pane systems - and very justified concerns in many cases - even the less-advanced systems in use (older and newer) generally have historical failure rates of less than 20% based on the glass system - which is where most people's concerns seem to focus. While the better, newer, systems often have failure rates in the tenth of a percent range (or better) and those failures that do occur with the better, newer, systems are almost always related to human error somewhere in the process. And while there is no question that a 20% failure rate in any product is totally and completely unacceptable, one would think that there is a 110% failure rate of dual glass windows based on what some people in the restoration world claim. Sometime last year (give or take) the California department of energy published a document that stated that replacing all of the single pane and less efficient dual pane windows in the state with state-of-the-art dual and triple pane windows would result in energy savings equivalent the energy output of two (or maybe three I forget) new power plants  and at a cost significantly less than the combined costs of building and operating those plants (over a 20 year period if I recall correctly). Thus my assertion that restoring windows is an indulgence  one that I often agree with  but still with the understanding that there is a trade-off involved versus replacement with an energy performance state-of-the-art replacement. Anyway, sorry so long  and I did tend to veer off track a bit  but ultimately making sure that whatever fills the hole in your wall is operating at its peak efficiency is going to benefit you. And, if you choose the replacement option donÂt forget the quality of the installation  that is so very important! Have a great weekend!

I would also look into different ceiling installation options because 118" will need at least a couple of middle supports if you installed on the sides.... 96" is a very manageable ht to diy! I have regular sized sliders (that are recessed about the same amount as yours except with a lot of molding around them) that I hung a tension like curtain rod on except it is mounted on both sides... I hung open weave linen sheers on them and almost always keep them pulled to cover just one half... anyway, I couldn't have used the center supports with this rod even if I wanted to because I have the rod hung tight near the top like you need to do-- in my case it works because I only have sheers hanging, so less wt and i don't close them too often, so very little tugging on the rod...

hi im a third generation stucco plasterer from north west canada. i dont have alot of time to give you advice but when i came across you problem i felt compeled to respond. so here you go , any loose stucco should be chipped away leaving the paper and wire on to tie into when you add more wire. do not attempt to put another 3 coats over the exsisting stucco. add the base coats twice if nessasary 3 times to make a level surface making the whole wall flat. let it cure. the longer the better, even a year would be ok. very important part of stucco contractors skip is flood the wall after application before it cures and repeat often cement will cure harder under water.. then skim it all again with base and apply finish as usually done on a new job. you may need to strip off paint depending on weather its 10 coats, if it is then striping may be to difficult. if the paint is flaking off then yea wash. if it seems to have good bond perhaps if you hit it with a rotery wire brush you wouldnt need to get it all off because you will wash it then use welbond. this is a glue that is mixed with water and rolled on and or added straight to the mix .look for me on facebook @ armor exteriors and stucco solutions . i hope that was helpful