Plywood isn't always plywood, per se. Sub-flooring, often referred to industry-wide as plywood doesn't always meet the specifications of an actual plywood. When you special ordered for plywood floors and roof decking, you may still have gotten two different products. The most common sub-floor material (when you specify plywood) is AdvanTech. Many newer subfloor materials, such as AdvanTech, are laminated, and would have to be sanded before staining. Also, most subflooring, roof decking, and exterior sheating will have a manufacturer's grade that may be stamped on both sides, as they are an underlayment, and not intended to be a "finished product" or "finishable product". Subfloor is usually installed with the manufacturer's grade stamp UP, which means it's probably going to be revealed when you remove the floor covering (vinyl or carpet). When removing the old vinyl flooring, remember that you're going to end up with dried glue that will have to be removed (usually by sanding). Whether you sand completely, or just enough to remove the old glue, you'll not likely achieve a suitable surface for staining and poly. It would be best to clean the subfloor as well as possible, then install a 1/4" plywood over it, in order to level the surface, and give you a stainable wood. In doing this, remember also that there will be a noticeable difference in the level between the old floor and existing floors. You'll have to utilize a gradual transition threshold strip, or you'll be catching a toe now and again. Another option is to use a 'self-leveling' concrete which is about 1/8" thick, but then again, you can't stain that. Frankly, by the time you spend the time and money trying to achieve a temporary stained look, you may have invested enough to simply remodel the floors to begin with.

I agree with the above poster, it needs to be inspected. If the owner wants you to go on his word then it should be reduced a lot due to unforseen possible future problems. If you do buy it, vents need to be installed first thing, and fans need to be put in the crawl space to dry it out. I would be more concern with mold. It is not just damp under there it is WET, dripping wet at that. That is VERY bad. Although it is not something that couldn't be easily fixed, it is still going to cost money either to you or to the homeowner. It doesn't matter now that HE doesn't want vents, HE is trying to get rid of it and this is something that has to be done if HE wants to sell it. Unless he is lucky enough to find a sucker who also thinks it isn't an issue. And I would have to wonder since he thinks it is a great problem free place, why's he wanting to let it go? Albeit a REALLY nice place, gosh I would love to have it too, and all the land with it. It does have some VERY nice upgrades to it. STILL there are issues there. I would get an inspector out there ASAP, if I were seriously considering buying this place because they can tell you what is REALLY going on. They can spot things that most of us would say ok, that's not really a big deal, when in fact it could be, or in the future might be. :) NCGG

Go to this website, maybe they can help you: www.addonrooms.com

Bus_Driver~ That is what was concerning me too, b/c I'm sure the floor can hold 600 lbs., but it is very concentrated & I was also thinking about any small vibration from either machine... I don't want my new w/d to fall through the floor... LOL. Thanks for your suggestion. My dad had suggested this too, I was just curious if there was a better way, but this is probably what we'll do. Coolvt~ Thank you also for your suggestion. I believe the weight is figured w/ the original weight of the w/d plus the washer full of water/wet laundry & the dryer full. As I said before, my dad also suggested the plywood... He said something about "marine" plywood that would withstand any leaks if, heaven forbid, we ever had one. So, I think that's what we'll do. But, the room is only about 5'x10', and the w/d will set w/ backs to the 5' wall, so, I think we'll just cover the whole width w/ plywood, we'll just cut it so it doesn't stick out too much in front of the w/d. Also, the spacing requirements for stacking them are w/d=76" + 6" above, so as long as the ceilings are 7 ft. tall, we're fine. Surely they're at least 7 ft. tall, wouldn't you think? Again, to both of you, thanks!