Tell us how you will utilize storage space with shelf height above 6'10" above the floor.

Mine are 54” with no crown. To reach the top shelves, I get out my 6’ ladder.

You can always save some money by using a soffit faced with cabinet material and crown molding so it appears to be part of the cabinets.

Thank you for this visual it’s very helpful / and it’s also helpful to realize how high the top shelf would be . The space would mostly be used to store seldom used items , I’m more concerned about the aesthetic’s of the proportions of the cabinets and costs since we are removing a soffit . The cabinet had pushed 15s over 30 as the ideal proportion for 9ft ceilings but I’m not sure if it will look too heavy and it’s an additional expense so if we go for it I want to get the proportions right

I think I have t considered a soffit as the one we’re removing is not at all attractive and is the standard bulkhead . I didn’t realize they could be dressed up like this

With a 9’ ceiling, a goid proportion is either:

- 36” + 15” + 3”crown, or

- 33” + 18” + 3” crown

I do not like thick crown molding in a kitchen. Crown molding is quite expensive, yet provides no utility. I’d rather have extra inches in the cabinetry. You can never have too much storage in a kitchen.

@Gg - there is a fallacy to your thinking. Most women cannot reach to the second shelf of upper cabinets (other than the edge of it) regardless if the uppers are 30” tall, 36” tall, or go up to meet a 9’ ceiling. They will need a stepstool regardless. Your old-style 30” uppers with the big gap to the ceiling - a stepstool is needed to reach the top of those too. That is no reason to forego stacked cabinets. I ”utilize” as you put it my upper stack cabinets for holiday items, shelf liner, a spare cheap coffee maker (in case the other one dies), extra candles, and similar. I have no other place for that kind of stuff, and the top stack is ideal for it. Very glad to have it.

No need for bulky build up......

We went for single tall doors mostly. Our architect drew it up for us both ways, and I thought the stacked cabinets looked too busy. I'm grateful for the storage even if I have to get up on a stool to reach; it's little-used items.

Higher end companies do 48" doors, which are perfect with a sleek 6" of crown choice, like a simple large cove molding, or angle molding. The wedding cake tiers of stacked moldings is reminiscent of the overly detailed "Tuscan" era, that had nothing to do with real Tuscan style.

"It's a waste any other way. Whether exposed (glass ) or not. You will never want to bother with anything WAY up there"

I disagree entirely. And is the OP's 9' ceiling really "way up there" or is that @JAN MOYER's typical dramatic way of commenting here. I use the upper cabinet stack. And since that configuration has been existing for centuries, I expect others find it useful too. What about answering the OP's question @JAN MOYER.

"But glass and display?"

I don't particularly like an upper-upper stack with glass cabinets for display, for both practical and aesthetic reasons. You can't see what is displayed up there very well, and that space would truly be a good space for storage of little-used items. Also, a row of small glass windows at the top can have a look of airplane windows depending how it's done. I prefer a few of the lower-uppers to have glass fronts. It adds more light and airiness to the kitchen. You can put dishes and glasses there so that when people come over they can find them easily.

We have stacked with crown. I think our uppers are 12ish and we have 4 1/4" cove molding. I would definitely do a single door if you can. I also store rarely used items in mine (gone are the days of large dining room hutches so where else do you put this stuff?) but I can't see what's in the cabinets without climbing up on my step stool and opening the doors and my memory isn't good enough to know. Would be nice to see what's up there by opening the lower cabinet.

IMO cabinets to the ceiling in 9' are always the best use of space and IMO a much nicer look than a bunch of trim for nor purpose other than filling a space . If your ceiling is level you can do 36 + 18 cabinets to go right to the ceiling but most ceilings are not perfect so my suggestion is 36 + 15 then play with the spacing from the counter to the uppers IMO 18" is too small so you can go 20" Then have vey liitle trim and a ton of storage . I hope all your base cabinets are drawers too. BTW the crown IMO only really works if you have crown in the rest of the house so a more modern kitchen style. Maybe share a bit more about that here .

We did this is our DD’s small co- op. Nine foot ceilings.

I like my super high cabinets. Great storage.

And I can't reach anything above the front of the second shelf either. (Actually I can in some cabinets as I ordered extra shelves so no shelf is higher than it needs to be.)

Thank you everyone . It seems like everyone prefers the single door at 48 . Is this for aesthetics only or is there a functional advantage to this over a 33/18 configuration? Our cabinets will be inset as well , not sure if that makes a difference

My cabs are 36 due to an eight foot ceiling. The very top shelf? Not much up there.

In fact, I think uppers are not the best storage for most of that used every day, unless in the front row.

Drawers beat uppers all day long. You want to use up al the height? You don't really have to "use" it.

That's not "drama" opinion, it is opinion and one based on thirty two years of the iin and out of peoples home and kitchens. In the end? If you want to stuff the "stuff" up there? Fine. You love a step stool? Great!

What's "typically ever dramatic" is to suggest that opinion of not actually needing the storage is in some way "dramatic" : ) Laughable, actually.

I can think of dozens of things to put in cabinets that require a step stool: fondue pot, punch bowl, empty canning jars, a box of tax returns, cookies that you don't want your kids to find.

I had 8' ceilings, and couldn't reach the top shelf. Luckily I found a great folding step stool that fit perfectly under the sink, and was so very simple to take out, use, and put away.

Like Fori, I also had extra shelve in all my uppers, so I could reach to the third shelf (and it eliminated a lot of wasted space).

"fondue pot, punch bowl, empty canning jars, a box of tax returns, cookies that you don't want your kids to find."

I rest my case : ) as I delve my brain to remember the last time I had the first two, and would consider the bold text exceedingly awful and unwelcome karma in my kitchen.

In my Mom's house, we would fondue on Christmas Day every year, in our pajamas. It was a wonderful tradition. She also had her grandmother's punch bowl, which we used when we had an open house (confirmation, graduation). I got rid of the punch bowl, but I still have the fondue pots!

I'm not suggesting a person has to keep old tax returns in their kitchen, simply that it doesn't necessarily have to be kitchen stuff, and there's always a way to use that "wasted" space. But then, I've almost always lived in homes where space was at a premium, and always looking for ways to maximize storage. It occurs to me that if you are building a home with 9' ceilings, you probably have a lot of storage space elsewhere! We all bring different perspectives to the table.

And you admit that canning jars and secret cookies are a great use of that space!

9' Ceilings - Bottom cabinet is 34.5", Top is 15" and Crown is 4.5" (Two-Piece). There is also a .75" light rail under the cabinet.

@Kristin Petro Interiors, Inc. - I LOVE this design! My ceilings are 101" - so a smidge less than 9" - what would you do for that height?

I probably wouldn't do stacked cabinets with a 101" ceiling height.

Patricia, there is no crown in the rear of the house . The kitchen opens up to a great room with 20 fr vaulted ceilings . I like the idea of 36 with 15 with minimal trim as I know the ceilings aren’t perfect or even 33’s . The cabinet maker suggested 30s saying it might look too heavy but I would prefer 33s or 36’s for the smidge of extra storage

I have stacked cabinets - 36-15-3 (crown). I put seldomly-used items there. Easier to get things there (even if I have to climb up on a chair) than going to the basement which is where those items would go if I didn't have stacked cabinets. I may be singing a different tune when I'm less physically able but for now, I find the extra space quite useful.

I have 9' ceilings with 48" doors. I love it. The crown molding isn't up yet. Will be painted the same as the trim and go all away around the room. My kitchen has 4 walls so it isn't the easiest to photograph,

@aziline - gorgeous cabinets!

Thanks Sally!

I would not do 36/15/3 because I am afraid the glass in the 15” upper will look super tiny. Even more so with inset cabinets. I prefer the ratio to be closest to 2:1. I also like a simple 3” crown, and I think that will still give you some wiggle room if your ceiling are not exactly flat. With your 9’ ceiling, I think the 33/18/3 would look perfect!

Hi - planning new build. 9’ ceilings. For kitchen cabs, looking at flat panel, full overlay, duraform textured. L-shaped K: 16 ft on focal/back wall w fridge. 10’ on sink wall. 3’ x 7’ island. Ques about upper cabs.

I want to go to ceiling, avoid large crown yet give wiggle room for uneven ceiling. Also not concerned about storage or reach to cabs - aesthetics the issue.

These cabs don’t offer one box for doors for smaller ”toppers” and larger bottoms. so stacked would apply here. Also only 30” or 36” or 42” ht for bottom wall cabs offered. 33” not an option (nor is custom).

Designer suggests 30/18/6 (crown). i wonder if 36/12/6 might be better. In either csse I would raise cabs from the common 18” above counter to 20” or so to reduce the crown.

Appreciate thoughts on which way to go w measurements. Thanks much!

Following...

“I want to go to ceiling, avoid large crown yet give wiggle room for uneven ceiling.”

@hope - in my comment at the top of this thread, I described cabinet configurations with a 3” crown, and why I prefer a 3” crown. Crown molding is quite expensive and provides little utility. There is no reason to raise the backsplash distance from the standard 18”; better to just reduce your 6” crown. A 3” crown gives enough room to scribe the middle piece of the crown for an uneven ceiling.

If you do raise the backsplash to 20”, you run the risk of making even the second shelf inaccessible without a stepstool.

”Designer suggests 30/18/6 (crown). i wonder if 36/12/6 might be better.”

A 30” upper is squatty. You have 9’ ceilings, and are nevertheless undermining that airiness by creating a squatty proportion. The other suggestion with a 12” upper-upper is not good. A 12” high cabinet is so small as to be useless. I suggested in my earlier comment 36” + 15” + 3”. Or, any thoughts to switching cabinet makers to one who can do 33” tall uppers? Most mainstream companies do that size.

Thanks for reply m miller. prob is they dont offer 15” topper - 12 or 18 and why the dilemma - between 36” bottom (nice) w topper 12” (i agree not great) or 30” bottom (not great) and 18” topper. only choices if stay w manufacturer, which would like to do albeit neither choice ideal. Question pondering is which is lesser evil. cheers!

A nine foot ceiling with "wiggle" room for minor height disparity:

Lowers and top 36 inches

Back splash 18 inches

Upper cabinets 48 inches

FLAT stock trim SCRIBED to the ceiling. Not a "crown" . It's the simplest you can get, AND it is IN PROPORTION with that upper cabinet

Scribing means no gaps at ceiling

Thanks Jan. like idea of flat stock.

A que: what is the ”and top 36 inches“ referencing? just lowers at 36”, splash at 18” plus uppers at 48” is 102” leaving 6” at ceiling to fill (with flat trim). not sure what ”and top 36” is? thanks!

"what is the ”and top 36 inches“ referencing?...not sure what ”and top 36” is?"

@hope - Yes, @JAN MOYER's comment was poorly worded and needs an entire translation. What she should have written instead of "lowers and top 36 inches" is that base cabinets plus countertop will equal 36" from the floor. Then add backsplash of 18" height. With a 9' ceiling, that leaves 54" for upper cabinets and crown. She is saying not to stack two rows of upper cabinets, but instead have one row of upper cabinets at 48" high. Then she is saying the balance of 6" to the ceiling should be 6" flat stock that is scribed to the ceiling because she likes the simplicity of flat stock instead of a 6" crown.

I am guessing that if your cabinet manufacturer does not offer 33" uppers as you said, it is unlikely to offer 48" uppers. When you have 48" tall cabinets, the door has to be very good quality for it not to be racked over time with that height. Since your cabinet maker seems limited, it may not be the quality needed for 48" tall uppers, if it even offers that. As I suggested earlier, I would find another cabinet company that can offer cabinet heights that will look good with your 9' ceiling.

Your lower cabinets, once topped with your solid surface , will have a height of 36 inches

108 inches is your ceiling height

-36 for the lower cabs and top

=72 inches

-18 INCHES FOR BACK SPLASH

= 54 INCHES remaining, TO HIT THE CEILING

- 48" FOR can upper cabinet

= 6 " open at top

So you add that flat, clean 6" TRIM AT THE TOP of those upper cabinets. When they install it? they scribe to the ceiling for a clean finish minus ugly gaps.

Or?

You build a FLUSH 6 inch soffit Flush to the cabinet box. And you use a 42 inch cabinet

A 36" upper with a useless 12 inc cabinet added? Will cost more.....is harder to perfect.

Don't do it

Thanks all for your valued insights. will try another manufscturer and hope $$ makes feasible. otherwise, still appreciate that the 30” upper is something to reconsider. cheers!

Love mine as well! For function and looks, prefer this style.